Bonding above ground pool - to complete the loop or not

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WireNut311

Member
Location
NJ
Occupation
Electrician
Hey all,
My original plan was to start at the pool pump, hit 4 posts, and end at the skimmer metal plate. Now I’m wondering if it needs to be a complete loop/ring. It is called an equipotential ring after all lol

Instead should I start at pump, hit the posts, go back to pump, then from there end it at skimmer?

*I’m trying to avoid running wire up and down to skimmer. One would look cleaner
*How do you get the SS nut and bolt into the post since a self tapper isn’t allowed? Work with the pool installer as it’s being built?
 
WireNut311 said:
Hey all,
My original plan was to start at the pool pump, hit 4 posts, and end at the skimmer metal plate. Now I’m wondering if it needs to be a complete loop/ring. It is called an equipotential ring after all lol

Instead should I start at pump, hit the posts, go back to pump, then from there end it at skimmer?

*I’m trying to avoid running wire up and down to skimmer. One would look cleaner
*How do you get the SS nut and bolt into the post since a self tapper isn’t allowed? Work with the pool installer as it’s being built?
Click to expand...
I take it that this is an above ground pool. You need a bond to the water that bond needs to be in constant contact with the pool water

You have plastic fittings on the bottom of the skimmer I seen guys change that plastic hose fitting eather at the skimmer or the pump to brass and use that to bond the water in the pool.

Make sure the water pipe clamp that is used has stainless bolts so they don't corrode. 9 sg in of contact surface to bond the water
 
WireNut311 said:
Hey all,
My original plan was to start at the pool pump, hit 4 posts, and end at the skimmer metal plate. Now I’m wondering if it needs to be a complete loop/ring. It is called an equipotential ring after all lol

Instead should I start at pump, hit the posts, go back to pump, then from there end it at skimmer?

*I’m trying to avoid running wire up and down to skimmer. One would look cleaner
*How do you get the SS nut and bolt into the post since a self tapper isn’t allowed? Work with the pool installer as it’s being built?
Click to expand...
Well if you have the post before they are installed you could take four of them get four chair lugs and stainless bolts and install them before the post are installed.

Just make sure that they are installed on the four locations you are doing the bonding

You could even instal a 8awg copper long enough to be split bolted to the bonding ring ahead of them being installed for the pool
I've seen that being done as well
 
All metal framework of pool is required to be bonded.
Water to be bonded.
Pump to be bonded.
Yes equipotential bonding required around pool.
All covered in 680.26(B).
 
If your not an electrician your not guilified to do the bonding, you need to know how the bonding gets connected to your equipment grounding.

You just can't read and be qualified to know how important it is to get this right
 
The equipotential grid can be spliced. So you can have a tail that goes up to the skimmer, a tail that goes to a post, etc. You can close the loop or leave it open. Closing it would make the grid more reliable if the ring broke in one place.
 
suemarkp said:
The equipotential grid can be spliced. So you can have a tail that goes up to the skimmer, a tail that goes to a post, etc. You can close the loop or leave it open. Closing it would make the grid more reliable if the ring broke in one place.
Click to expand...
I never read it that way I always read it as a ring, I guess it could be as long as both ends pass each other to complete the ring
 
I always joined the single #8 together. I then split bolted jumpers to everything else that needed bonding.

BTW, if this pool has a vinyl liner, hitting the 4 points is not necessary.
 
Little Bill said:
I always joined the single #8 together. I then split bolted jumpers to everything else that needed bonding.

BTW, if this pool has a vinyl liner, hitting the 4 points is not necessary.
Click to expand...
A lot of these pools have alum post and top cap I guess it could be argued or stated you would only have to bond in one location not 4
 
david said:
I take it that this is an above ground pool. You need a bond to the water that bond needs to be in constant contact with the pool water

You have plastic fittings on the bottom of the skimmer I seen guys change that plastic hose fitting eather at the skimmer or the pump to brass and use that to bond the water in the pool.

Make sure the water pipe clamp that is used has stainless bolts so they don't corrode. 9 sg in of contact surface to bond the water
Click to expand...
I already have the water bond kit for the skimmer. I'm just wondering about the sequence. Ideally I want to start at the pump, hit 4 posts, come back to the pump, then up to the skimmer ( this way only one wire runs up to the skimmer, Looks cleaner)

Instead of pump, 4 posts, skimmer, pump
 
david said:
Well if you have the post before they are installed you could take four of them get four chair lugs and stainless bolts and install them before the post are installed.

Just make sure that they are installed on the four locations you are doing the bonding

You could even instal a 8awg copper long enough to be split bolted to the bonding ring ahead of them being installed for the pool
I've seen that being done as well
Click to expand...
That's my plan. Get 4 posts from the pool installer prior to install. Also, I'm pretty sure it has to be one continuous run. No splices unless you're hitting a nearby fence
 
Greentagger said:
All metal framework of pool is required to be bonded.
Water to be bonded.
Pump to be bonded.
Yes equipotential bonding required around pool.
All covered in 680.26(B).
Click to expand...
Thanks, I am just wondering if the sequence I want to do it in is acceptable. Basically I want to start at pump, hit 4 posts, go back to pump, then up to the skimmer

Instead of pump, posts, skimmer, pump
 
david said:
If your not an electrician your not guilified to do the bonding, you need to know how the bonding gets connected to your equipment grounding.

You just can't read and be qualified to know how important it is to get this right
Click to expand...
I'm a commercial electrician and was given the OK by the township to do the work since I'm the homeowner. This is why I have questions
 
suemarkp said:
The equipotential grid can be spliced. So you can have a tail that goes up to the skimmer, a tail that goes to a post, etc. You can close the loop or leave it open. Closing it would make the grid more reliable if the ring broke in one place.
Click to expand...
Everything I'm reading says it has to be one continuous run. Only exception is bonding a nearby fence within 10ft. Less splices the better right? Even if you are using direct burial lugs
 
david said:
I never read it that way I always read it as a ring, I guess it could be as long as both ends pass each other to complete the ring
Click to expand...
I submitted two prints and the one with a closed ring was approved. I can't see how to add the pictures
 
WireNut311 said:
Everything I'm reading says it has to be one continuous run. Only exception is bonding a nearby fence within 10ft. Less splices the better right? Even if you are using direct burial lugs
Click to expand...
I don't know what you're reading, but it doesn't say it has to be continuous. You can run jumpers of the ring with split bolts.
 
Little Bill said:
I don't know what you're reading, but it doesn't say it has to be continuous. You can run jumpers of the ring with split bolts.
Click to expand...
I can't find my source now but that is good news. Less splices the better but I was wondering how I was going to accomplish this. Thanks
 
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