Bonding Bushing Issues

[George Stolz]

Tell me if I am crazy, but what gives?

Has anyone else had problems getting bonding bushings onto connectors securely? It seems like over half the time when the locknut is tightened as securely as humanly possible, and then the bonding bushing is put on, it will not spin on enough to allow the set screw to hit the threads of the connector.

I believe these were Regal bushings, but I'm pretty sure I've had the same problems with Bridgeport in the past. I think the connectors were Regal, but again wouldn't swear by it.

Does anybody have a brand of these that works well?

Any tips or tricks?

Oh yeah, question 2: Does anybody have a trick for ensuring that the screws of the bonding bushing are in fact facing outward when the bushing is as tight as it will go? Every single time, the screws face the back or corner of the can, where I can't get to them. Since this is after super-tightening the locknut, it is annoying. Murphy's Law.

 

[infinity]

Regarding the screws, it is imperative that the bushing be made up tight? If you spin it on tight and back it off enough so that you can get to the screw would this be code compliant? Once that screw is tightened the bushing isn't going to move.

I have had problems with plastic bushings too. One manufacturer's bushing spin right on the other guys go on with a lump hammer. Seems that the threads either on the bushing or the connector is slightly different.

 

[iwire]

Connectors can be ordered with longer threaded sections.

That takes advance planning and expense.

As far as the position of the screw I spin the bushing on until it stops and than back up till I can access the screw.

A small (like 6") pair of channel locks will help as well.

All that aside bonding bushings are often a PITA.

 

[George Stolz]

Regarding the screws, it is imperative that the bushing be made up tight? If you spin it on tight and back it off enough so that you can get to the screw would this be code compliant?

Well, I just looked at the White Book and it wasn't much help.

Grounding and Bonding Bushings ? Bonding bushings for use with
conduit fittings, tubing (EMT) fittings, threaded rigid metal and intermedi-ate
metal conduit, or unthreaded rigid metal and intermediate metal con-duit
are provided with means (usually one or more set screws) for reliably
bonding the bushing (and the conduit on which it is attached) to the metal
equipment enclosure or box. They provide the electrical continuity required
by the NEC at service equipment and for circuits rated over 250 V. Means
for connecting a grounding or bonding wire are not provided and if there is
need for such a conductor a grounding bushing should be used.
Grounding bushings for use with conduit fittings, tubing (EMT) fittings,
threaded rigid metal and intermediate metal conduit, or unthreaded rigid
metal and intermediate metal conduit have provision for the connection of a
bonding or grounding wire or have means for mounting a wire connector
available from the manufacturer. Such a bushing may also have means (usu-ally
one or more set screws) for reliably bonding the bushing to the metal
equipment enclosure or box in the same manner that this is accomplished
by a bonding bushing. Grounding bushings provide the electrical continuity
required by the NEC at service equipment and for circuits rated over 250 V.
They may be used with or without a bonding or grounding conductor as
determined by the bonding or grounding function that is intended to be
accomplished.
Insulating throat liners in grounding or bonding bushings are suitable for
temperatures of 150?C if they are black or brown in color. Unless otherwise
marked, insulating throat liners of any other color are suitable for tempera-tures
of 90?C.
Grounding and Bonding Locknuts ? Grounding and bonding locknuts
serve in a manner similar to grounding and bonding bushings except they
do not provide abrasion protection for the conductor at the end of the con-duit.

Connectors can be ordered with longer threaded sections.

So, do you do this, or do you have this problem? Do you normally overcome the problem with channellocks?

I have noticed that the bottom of many of the bonding bushings are toothy suckers, it wonder if some are less toothy so they hit the locknut later into the spin, or spin farther after contact?

I have never been able to back up to access the screw and still have the screw engage the connector - never say never and all, but it is very close to never.

 

[big vic]

Do you really need a locknut with a bonding bushing. I have installed them without and never had an inspector question it

 

[dcspector]

Connectors can be ordered with longer threaded sections.

That takes advance planning and expense.

As far as the position of the screw I spin the bushing on until it stops and than back up till I can access the screw.

A small (like 6") pair of channel locks will help as well.

All that aside bonding bushings are often a PITA.

I was an Electrician before becoming an Inspector and Yes! bond bushings can be a PITA. Steele City and CH made a good one a few years ago, deep threads where I could set the screw and have the bond lug lookin right at me.

 

[George Stolz]

Do you really need a locknut with a bonding bushing. I have installed them without and never had an inspector question it

Did they securely hold the connector to the can? Everytime I've entertained that notion and gave that a shot, the bushing didn't have enough thread to get to the bottom of the connector.

It's almost as though some of the bushings are supposed to be combination locknut/bushings and they forgot to label them that way.

I wholeheartedly agree on the PITA comments.

 

[allenwayne]

Craftsman makes a 5 piece ratcheting screwdriver that works great in close quarters and for $10 its saves alot of problems.Works great for those PITA bushings.

 

[tom baker]

Regal and like are poor quality IMO. I like the T&B Blackjack bushging, it sets over the threaded or bare end of a conduit and a 3/8 nutdriver tightens it a setscrew. It has a lay in lug for the bonding wire.
Another good GB is the OZ Gedney HLBG, its HD with SS hardware, but has a teeny tiny screw that holds the lug on.
Around the puget sound its damp and the salt air will corrode aluminum lugs
for my money go with the T&B.

 

[e57]

Do you really need a locknut with a bonding bushing. I have installed them without and never had an inspector question it

Only time I could ever do it, I tried the lock-nut on the outside of the can, and tightened the bushung to it, and got the wagging finger from the inspector. It was plenty tight though.... But for most applications I can just go for a grounding lock-nut, and a plastic bushing. Or a grounding Myers hub. Only ever have to go for the grounding bushing on concentric/eccentric KO's....

BTW I would rather punch my own KO's....