Bonding Stock Tank Hot Tubs
- Thread starter DEELYBOB
- Start date
- Status
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
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- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
I am reopening this thread after corresponding with the owner. Apparently this tank is a custom deal but has no means of grounding. My own response is to have someone weld a lug to the tank. Maybe some of you have a different idea. There is an electrician on the job
Here is one pm from Bob
Here is one pm from Bob
Adamjamma
Senior Member
- Location
- Jamaica and london
does it have legs on it that could be clamped to? Are there any screw points for installation purposes? Otherwise, the Jimmy Bob method of taking a screw high enough to be outside the water line, from inside out, bolting it down tight, sealing completely and using the lefover bolt part for the ground to connect to is the only alternative.. saw it once using a stainless coach bolt...
Other idea is to cut in a brass or copper drain system for draining the water as needed for changing, making sure all connections for the section of drain are both mechanically and electrically sound... and then grounding the drain pipe.. should ground the whole tub. But, could be a problem depending upon the drain connection itself... especially if one were to change the drain in the future to pvc... so would try to bond direct to tub shell by the first method.
Other idea is to cut in a brass or copper drain system for draining the water as needed for changing, making sure all connections for the section of drain are both mechanically and electrically sound... and then grounding the drain pipe.. should ground the whole tub. But, could be a problem depending upon the drain connection itself... especially if one were to change the drain in the future to pvc... so would try to bond direct to tub shell by the first method.
Clodbuster
Member
- Location
- Eastern Washington
I don't see how this would be achievable without welding on either a stud or a tapped pad of some type. Most locations on the tank are going to be too thin to rely on threads alone to achieve the continuity, plus it will probably leak.
I don't think you want to try to use the metal drain line, if there is one. It will be mounted to a bulkhead fitting which has rubber gasketing interrupting continuity.
A steel pad with a tapped hole for attaching ground could be welded or brazed to any location on the tank by a weld shop or mobile welder. A stud would work also, but the pad will be less likely to break or leak. It can be touched up with cold galvanizing compound after welding.
Whatever dissimilar metal issues the inspector is concerned about would exist regardless - you have to mate a copper bonding conductor to a galvanized iron tank. I would use Kopr shield on the connection and not worry about it. It's not any different than a bond to building steel the way I see it.
I don't think you want to try to use the metal drain line, if there is one. It will be mounted to a bulkhead fitting which has rubber gasketing interrupting continuity.
A steel pad with a tapped hole for attaching ground could be welded or brazed to any location on the tank by a weld shop or mobile welder. A stud would work also, but the pad will be less likely to break or leak. It can be touched up with cold galvanizing compound after welding.
Whatever dissimilar metal issues the inspector is concerned about would exist regardless - you have to mate a copper bonding conductor to a galvanized iron tank. I would use Kopr shield on the connection and not worry about it. It's not any different than a bond to building steel the way I see it.
Bonding Stock Tank Hot Tub
Bonding Stock Tank Hot Tub
The Stock Tank has no metal (no ladder, rails, lights, etc.) other than the galvanized steel shell. The drain is PVC. There is rebar in the foundation base that is part of the equipotential plane and connected to the 1x1 copper grid. The shell is put together in sections overlaping a new inches and bolted together with 3/8" bolts. These locations are available for welding. Our electrical inspector seems to think that welding is not reliable and it needs to be exothermic welded that is not possible in this area because no one does this type of work. Best solution would be to weld a stud on the shell and bolt a copper lay in lug in each section and then connect all these with #8 copper to the grid and back to the pump house. Is this an acceptable solution? Any electrical inspectors out there who could weigh in?
Bonding Stock Tank Hot Tub
The Stock Tank has no metal (no ladder, rails, lights, etc.) other than the galvanized steel shell. The drain is PVC. There is rebar in the foundation base that is part of the equipotential plane and connected to the 1x1 copper grid. The shell is put together in sections overlaping a new inches and bolted together with 3/8" bolts. These locations are available for welding. Our electrical inspector seems to think that welding is not reliable and it needs to be exothermic welded that is not possible in this area because no one does this type of work. Best solution would be to weld a stud on the shell and bolt a copper lay in lug in each section and then connect all these with #8 copper to the grid and back to the pump house. Is this an acceptable solution? Any electrical inspectors out there who could weigh in?
Adamjamma
Senior Member
- Location
- Jamaica and london
you say the sections overlap and are bolted.. I assume the bolts go from inside to outside? Which means you could insert a washer style connector under a nut at each section? Then clamp the wires bonding each of the sections the same as some farmers did in New Jersey where I lived a few years, as this sounds like one of those expandable water troughs like my neighbor had...
He had two of those clamped connectors with a wire running between them... creating what I now know is a bonding of the whole shell... but as a ten year old I just thought it was something to tie pieces of plastic to watch blow in the wind...
Might be an easier way..not sure.
He had two of those clamped connectors with a wire running between them... creating what I now know is a bonding of the whole shell... but as a ten year old I just thought it was something to tie pieces of plastic to watch blow in the wind...
Might be an easier way..not sure.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
Weld a stud to tank somehow, preferably to a reinforced area like upper or lower rim, then use a one shot cadweld kit to attach to your conductor
- Status