BOSE speaker wire

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dbuckley

Senior Member
Having chortled with this for a while; time was when I earned my living working with powerful audio systems, and the rule is simple; quality cables, quality connectors, properly applied. You dont need coathangers or monster cable, just decent cable with an appropriate cross-sectional area, the thicker the better. Extra hard service rated if using outside the home.

For an install, I'd recommend crimps over terminal blocks, JBs, and wire nuts.
 

RayS

Senior Member
Location
Cincinnati
Well, for all the skepticism I've seen, I will relate an experiment I did with bi-wiring. (splitting hi-current lo's from lo-current mid-hi's)

I tried it. It worked good. It was cheap. I was already using short 10ga runs, just added some 16ga zip cord. Best sound improvement per dollar. This was in a good system, though. Carver TFM-55 at 375wpc diving a pair of Infinitys, passive input switch (no pre-amp)

I will second the previous opinions about the need for proper acoustics (furniture arrangement) and the importance of damping factor (those big cones are generators, and need to be controlled)
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
A good reliable connection can be made using solder and insulating with heat shrink tubing.

Cut the tubing to the desired size and slip it on a conductor. (Yes, I have forgot to do this and had to cut and re-solder).

Make sure the tubing is far enough from the connection not to shrink from the heat of the solder.

Twist the bare wires together and solder them.

Shrink over the soldered joint.

The joint will likely outlast the stereo.

If done properly, it looks good, too.
 
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