Bought a megohmmeter

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ivsenroute said:
I have been a Fluke man since 1983 and wanted the 1507 but settled on the Ideal 61-795 due to a great price quote from the supply house.
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How much was it?

The only bummer about that one is that it has no low voltage test voltage. It's real handy to have one with a 50 or 100 volt setting to double check yourself. It will serve you just fine, though.
 
$280. They were running some specials.

I would liket to have more versatility but for the price I could not go wrong. This will be the first time I did not have to crank a megger.
 
They could not get the Fluke 1507 price down under the low $400 range so I opted for the Ideal.

This unit should be able to do the job without a problem. Maybe not as versatile as I would like but a start. I see myself with a higher end unit in the future so this is a step in the right direction.
 
Speaking of mergers, Marc I know you use them allot from all the reading I have done.
I know this might sound funny but I do not have much experience with using them. Do you know of any good reading that can teach me and the reasons of having one?
 
jmsbrush said:
Cash or charge?
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How much info would you like? Marc can give you many personal accounts. I have some good links you may like.

It amazes me the people who have spent years in the trade without one.

They are SO useful!!!!!
 
ce2two

ce2two

megger motor windings ,if they are going to ground ,megger wire just pulled in by contractors ,remember they pull in there wire dragging it across the pavement things happen , wires get nicked torn what ever .....quick insulation checks very handy to have on the truck..........we have the 500/1000 old style crank and the non crank ?????????//
 
76nemo said:
How much info would you like? Marc can give you many personal accounts. I have some good links you may like.

It amazes me the people who have spent years in the trade without one.

They are SO useful!!!!!
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As much as possible please, Thank you:grin:
 
Im not familular with these models, but In cases where you are measuring long circuits, IMO, the small battery powered units dont have the current capacity to push the voltage very far. So if a person buys a battery powered unit, buy one "with some lead in its britches"....Where a crank model you can overcome by cranking harder......I may be all wet here, but I have had long circuits look good and put a cranker on it and get a different story. Some of the really small units Ive seen have a small 9v battery,or not many batteries and that should raise a yeller flag. :smile:
 
My first Fluke 1507 lasted about 11 months. I used to carry it with me in my service truck every day.

It uses 4 "c" batteries and has a battery check function. I had used the meter on a job just checking voltage one morning, when i got to another job, i needed to check voltage again and went to use it, the screen was blank, i switched to check the batteries and it showed 100%, (i had never changed them) i switched back to the volt setting and still nothing. I retrieved another meter and went on about my business. later that day i had time to open the case and found the batteries had corroded and basically exploded, not all of them. I went thru the supply house and the meter was sent back for repair, i was issued a new meter. the new meter, which i still use did the same thing after about 9 months only this time it was not near as bad and did not ruin the meter. I now try to change the batteries every 3 months and keep it in my office in a controlled enviroment. of course its never with me when i want it.

i have several Fluke instruments with batteries and i have never had a problem with this happening to any of them except the 1507, they also stay in my truck 24/7, thru the winter, I actually think the daily temp changes are to blame. What i still dont understand is why it sayed the batts were 100%

If i have to spend the $500 again, i will buy a crank model.

I have used the 1507 on underground cable runs of up to 1800' and it has shown that the insulation has been compromised on long runs.

I use a ground fault locator once i determine the problem with the megger to pin point the break.
 
Leaking cells is a cell issue not a meter issue. The battery check is probably just a voltage check with no load. When you tested for voltage, you applied a load.

I'll have to pop open my 1507 and check the cells.
 
wptski said:
Leaking cells is a cell issue not a meter issue. The battery check is probably just a voltage check with no load. When you tested for voltage, you applied a load.

I'll have to pop open my 1507 and check the cells.
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I would have to agree that it was the battery cells fault, the meter came supplied with Energizer brand batteries. I just really think that the meter going from hot to cold, from summer to winter maybe contributed to what happened.

If i know in advance of the type of service call, or job i am on, i can take it with me to work, otherwise, like i said, i leave it in my office.
 
Brian Johns said:
I would have to agree that it was the battery cells fault, the meter came supplied with Energizer brand batteries. I just really think that the meter going from hot to cold, from summer to winter maybe contributed to what happened.

If i know in advance of the type of service call, or job i am on, i can take it with me to work, otherwise, like i said, i leave it in my office.
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I checked my 1507 and the cells are fine, Energizers too. I renoticed the use of some type of grease on the contacts. I assume that Fluke is using this on their AA power devices.
 
Mule said:
Im not familular with these models, but In cases where you are measuring long circuits, IMO, the small battery powered units dont have the current capacity to push the voltage very far. So if a person buys a battery powered unit, buy one "with some lead in its britches"....Where a crank model you can overcome by cranking harder......I may be all wet here, but I have had long circuits look good and put a cranker on it and get a different story. Some of the really small units Ive seen have a small 9v battery,or not many batteries and that should raise a yeller flag. :smile:
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It should be just the opposite. Long runs with an megger take longer to test. When you crank you are pushing the same 1000 VDC that a battery operated model is "pushing".
 
Bought a meg-ohmmeter

Bought a meg-ohmmeter

Come on Marc you should pay us $49.95 for reading your post each day.
As you should no I'm just kidding without you, Iwire,Dennis and so on this would be no forum.
Semper Fi Budd
 
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