box hanger

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LarryFine said:
Sure, you could. It would bend over the front lip, around it, and tucked into the inside of the lip's fold. A 90, a 180, and another 90.
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this is silly. As Marc said, they don't have ears on them to keep them from going all the way into the wall. Besides that would probably violate a UL listing anyway or the manufacturers instructions. :)
 
JJWalecka said:
"Madison Straps" or "Mad Bars" but never heard of "Battle ship".

Justin
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I have always called them battleships. Even heard 'two men in a boat' before. But never refer to them as Madison's.
 
I see some people have never worked really remote jobs. Thats where you fly to the place by jet to a major "airport", then catch a Cessna 180 for another $300 to the place called a "jobsite". You learn that the rules sometimes going to functionality, places that have never seen an inspector, and probably won't have one for another thirty years.

I could see homemade madison clips for an eight by eight box.

One learns to take a full plane load of goodies to fill any potential problem, as far as the imagination will allow at times.

Remember, when your sent drain the swamp, focus on draining the swamp, not them thar gators snapping at you!
 
Rockyd said:
I could see homemade madison clips for an eight by eight box.

Remember, when your sent drain the swamp, focus on draining the swamp, not them thar gators snapping at you!
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Homemeade or not, it's still wrong. Especially if homemade. What would you do, weld on some ears to keep the box from falling into the wall?
 
Steelerdman,

Some jobs in Alaska (certain village, remote mining camps, etc) are like going to a third world country. If you don't do something positive, the problem will only get worse. I know what I'm going to do. It will be the right thing for the situation at hand. Evidently it must be fairly safe in the back country, by some good electricians.. Don't hear a whole lot on the news about people dying of electrical situations in location xyz.
 
Rockyd said:
Steelerdman,

Some jobs in Alaska (certain village, remote mining camps, etc) are like going to a third world country. If you don't do something positive, the problem will only get worse. I know what I'm going to do. It will be the right thing for the situation at hand. Evidently it must be fairly safe in the back country, by some good electricians.. Don't hear a whole lot on the news about people dying of electrical situations in location xyz.
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I can only imagine what some of the things are that you come across.
 
steelersman said:
As Marc said, they don't have ears on them to keep them from going all the way into the wall.
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I have an idea: glue shims of drywall on back of the box to the right thickness, so it rests against the opposite wall.
 
Rockyd said:
Steelerdman,

Some jobs in Alaska (certain village, remote mining camps, etc) are like going to a third world country. If you don't do something positive, the problem will only get worse. I know what I'm going to do. It will be the right thing for the situation at hand. Evidently it must be fairly safe in the back country, by some good electricians.. Don't hear a whole lot on the news about people dying of electrical situations in location xyz.
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I don't even see the need to have to install an 8x8 box flush inside the wall inside of a house. In fact I don't see the need to install one surface mounted either on the inside finished area of a house. Seems like there would be another way to avoid an 8x8. Just mount however many gangable metal cut-in boxes to suit your cubic inch capacity.
 
steelersman said:
Just mount however many gangable metal cut-in boxes to suit your cubic inch capacity.
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Let me know how your search for an 11-gang blank plate pans out. ;)
 
LarryFine said:
Let me know how your search for an 11-gang blank plate pans out. ;)
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is that the equivalent cu. inch capacity for an 8x8? How deep is an 8x8?

Also I'm not searching for a box that big anyhow. So my search won't pan out at all. :)
 
"Originally Posted by splinetto
Fill the hole with expanding foam, shove the box in and hold it there until it hardens"

Ever put a lighter to expend-a-foam. It burns pretty easily, pretty nasty smoke too. I was told it was not listed for fire proofing. I have heard of holding a box in that way seemed creative but I'm a bit leary.

JJ
 
8 x8, in the wall why not a piece of stud and build a box using the short or long side inside wall adjacent to the hole and create an attachment point.
Send sheet rock screws (self tapers) through along the edge of open about 1/2" or less from the edge.

I used this on my fan install in bathroom, except I used a piece of 90? gauge metal and collared two sides of the hole, and screwed chassis to gauge metal. A right angle drill is desirable here. The light grill covered the screws

I'll also used small toggle bolts that hold the metal on the inside of hole w/ washer backer, on the outside was a gypsum bead edge. It was a 90? gauge metal again. You can compress the gyspum just enough to get a nice cover of spackle. or use a angled bolt head.

Nice trick, the finisher just make my work look Good. :wink:
 
JJWalecka said:
"Originally Posted by splinetto
Fill the hole with expanding foam, shove the box in and hold it there until it hardens"

Ever put a lighter to expend-a-foam. It burns pretty easily, pretty nasty smoke too. I was told it was not listed for fire proofing. I have heard of holding a box in that way seemed creative but I'm a bit leary.

JJ
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Can't be anymore fire happy then the straw/paper insulation I usually find in the hole where I usually use this method with.
 
Rockyd said:
I see some people have never worked really remote jobs. Thats where you fly to the place by jet to a major "airport", then catch a Cessna 180 for another $300 to the place called a "jobsite". You learn that the rules sometimes going to functionality, places that have never seen an inspector, and probably won't have one for another thirty years.

I could see homemade madison clips for an eight by eight box.
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Becoming creative does not mean the installation is permitted to be in violation. Be creative in a permitted way.


Celtic
Take a look at 250.4(A)(3) for the bonding of the madison clips or whatever someone is calling them.
 
Pierre C Belarge said:
Celtic
Take a look at 250.4(A)(3) for the bonding of the madison clips .....
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I'll go with that....good find Pierre, TY

(3) Bonding of Electrical Equipment.
Normally non?current-carrying conductive materials enclosing electrical conductors or equipment, or forming part of such equipment, shall be connected together and to the electrical supply source in a manner that establishes an effective groundfault current path.
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If I install a 4 gang handy box and it sicks out past the drywall on one end, because the stud is crooked or some other reason, I usually do this...

Pull the end of the box out about inch with pliers, and run a bead of silicone caulking down the outside end of the box, near the edge.

Push the box back into the opening and hold it flush with the wall, and at the same time, run a drywall screw thru the end of the box so that it rests against the backside of the drywall....The screw holds the box in place until the silicone cures.

I then wipe the excess silicone off the exterior, while pressing all that I can back into the crack.

When terminating, I remove the screw.

Works well for me

Just a opinion
steve
 
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