Breaker for sewer/grinder hook up

Status
Not open for further replies.

Rollbar

Member
Location
Fla
I was asked to hook up a service to a mini grinder/sewer pump station for a residence & it calls for a 20 amp 115V line & a 220V line, no problem.

I haven't done one in a long time & I have a breaker question that was asked of me. What kind of breaker are you going to install? I said a regular Square D double pole breaker for the 220V line, the person asked aren't you going to install an Arc-fault breaker, I said no it doesn't need it.

Am I correct?

Thanks, just double checking,
Rollbar
 
AFCI protection is only required for dwelling bedroom outlets. That doesn't prohibit you from using AFCI's elsewhere.
 
Thanks, that's what I was thinking & I don't even know if they make it in 220, I was just hit w/the question & didn't have time to really research it.

I already bought the standard Square D breaker etc. (@ Home DePot two day's ago) & it's going in tomorrow morning.

Thanks for the info,
Rollbar
 
Roll, I have wired one of these. I used a standard 2-pole breaker for the pump and a standard 1-pole breaker for the indoor-mounted warning light. Each circuit requires a disconnect, so I used two cheap pull-out disco's nippled together so a single NM-conduit held all of the conductors.

The 240v circuit passes through its disconnect as you would expect, but the 120v warning-light circuit used one pole of its disco to break the hot conductor to the pump, while the other pole of the disco interrupts the switched hot returning to the warning light (if memory serves).
 
65__jb120.jpg


This kit makes an easy install... www.libertypumps.com
 
I can't put the control by the panel, the pump is 150 away so I'm running conduit etc.

As for the pump in the tank it's a regular 220V plug that plugs into a receptacle & the float switch is piggy backed off it, (well vise-a-versa) to shut it off incase of a over flow failure etc. That's how it was explained to me, I'm not a Plumber. It's a nice set up.

RollBar
 
Rollbar said:
I can't put the control by the panel, the pump is 150 away so I'm running conduit etc.

As for the pump in the tank it's a regular 220V plug that plugs into a receptacle & the float switch is piggy backed off it, (well vise-a-versa) to shut it off incase of a over flow failure etc. That's how it was explained to me, I'm not a Plumber. It's a nice set up.

RollBar

I figured you were running conduit to the pit, but who says the control panel has to go right where you enter the building? That piggy back switch will corrode if not installed in a 3R box...Make sure you seal the conduit going back to the house... and the float is what turns the pump ON and OFF....that's why the PUMP is plugged into the float... its a switch...
 
Last edited:
Correct in all aspect. Everythings gonna be sealed etc. & I finished the conduit & pulled the wire from the grinder/lift station to the box today, I'll finish it on Monday unless an emergency comes up.

Thanks again,
Rollbar
 
Rollbar said:
"Thanks for the tip Larry, I'll get a chepo disco. It's not like it's gonna be used often."

In the past 5 years I've installed over 150 (2HP) grinder pumps for a city wide, pumped sewage system. All of the pumps required a 30A 240V circuit to power the factory assembled tank collector/pumping system. Basically the system is a buried 150 gallon fiberglass tank with a 2 hp grinder pump sitting in the bottom. The pump is controlled by a float operated, magnetic starter with pump failure alarm all contained in a factory supplied control panel that's mounted under the tank lid.
The way I installed the system was to run a 30A 240V feeder from the house panel (usually requiring work on these 50-75 year old homes) to a outside 2 pole disconnect. A 5 conductor service cord (supplied with the system) was routed (underground in conduit) from my disconnect to the pump control disconnect (mounted in control panel). The cord supplied 240V power, neutral conductor and a grounding conductor to the control and the other wire in the cord powered from the control back to a 120V alarm system that was mounted beside my disconnect.
On some of the systems, the tank/pump had to be located some distance from the home. On those, I installed a 30A 240V (underground) 4 wire feed from the house panel to a "structure" (that I built) that supported the disconnect and alarm box. This "structure" was located beside the tank/pump.
In the beginning, I was using a "cheap" 2 pole A/C disconnect. As the work progressed, I realized that the disconnects were going to see a lot of use because of the nature of the installation. These systems require a lot of maintenence (which the city is still learning the hard way). So I later began to install a better grade of disconnect because the plug-in types were failing in short order.
Long story short....That disconnect will be used regularly.
Hope this helps
steve
 
Thanks Steve, The guy who purchased the pump station for the Church house told me to run a 240V, 20amp svc. I did not check the pump since it was not installed @ the time I pulled the wire, only the tank was installed. I'll double check the pump tomorrow.

Thanks,
Rollbar
 
The last few pumps I installed only needed a 240v/20a ckt for the pump and two conductors for the alarm float... thats it... I never get to run the PVC to the pit so I generally use a 6x6 pvc box on the outside of the house and then run rx back to the pump control box, usually mounted at the panel... then inside the pit itself, I install a 10 x 10 pvc box, inside of that 10 x 10 I have a 1 gang bell box for the pump receptacle... and make a splice for the alarm float... then seal ALL conduits going back to the house and bottom of the 10 x 10 pvc box....
 
I have the control wires running from the pit in 2" pvc to the 10x10 pvc box & then I'll finish it from there.

Question, in regards to the 2" pvc coming from the pit/fiberglass tub where the control wires come from do I need to foam the pvc in case of back flow up into the main box. I know the float switch will turn it off etc. but I was just wondering. My answer is no but I need a confirmation.

Thanks,
Rollbar
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top