Burndy MD6 and MD6-8

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I only put 33+ over heat shrink as a holdover from the days of rubber tape that wouldn't survive in the sunlight (UV). I really don't know if heat-shrink is UV resistant or not. I agree the heat shrink seals water better than tape.

Mark
 
busman said:
I only put 33+ over heat shrink as a holdover from the days of rubber tape that wouldn't survive in the sunlight (UV). I really don't know if heat-shrink is UV resistant or not. I agree the heat shrink seals water better than tape.

Mark
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I think most of these types of shrink tube are UV resistant, even if not marked as UV resistant.
 
Strummed said:
Thanks again. I really like the straight line splices that use the 5/8 die. Those would be good when doing SE cable services, I could fabricate the entire thing, even crimp the splices on the ends of the conductors while on the ground. Not having the insulate them is a plus, and the 50 cent price tag is awesome. I could pay for the crimper in a few service changes.
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I realize this post has went past this point, I just wanted to make this point. the straight line splices should not be used in a verticle position if you are in a cold climate. the water will build up in the splices and when it freezes the ice will push the conductor out of the splice. Use the splices in a horizontal position, it will save headaches in the long run.
 
Hv&Lv said:
I realize this post has went past this point, I just wanted to make this point. the straight line splices should not be used in a verticle position if you are in a cold climate. the water will build up in the splices and when it freezes the ice will push the conductor out of the splice. Use the splices in a horizontal position, it will save headaches in the long run.
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I haven't seen everything that is for sure, but I have a strong hunch someone used a die that was "close enough" on those.

FWIW, IIRC I had been told in the past that they should also be placed "high" and not low as in the bottom of a drip loop.

We use H taps for everthing but repairing underground, then it is butt splices.
 
ptonsparky said:
I haven't seen everything that is for sure, but I have a strong hunch someone used a die that was "close enough" on those.

FWIW, IIRC I had been told in the past that they should also be placed "high" and not low as in the bottom of a drip loop.

We use H taps for everthing but repairing underground, then it is butt splices.
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No, it was the right die. we had them checked out. Ice is a powerful force that little can stop.
 
ptonsparky said:
I haven't seen everything that is for sure, but I have a strong hunch someone used a die that was "close enough" on those.

FWIW, IIRC I had been told in the past that they should also be placed "high" and not low as in the bottom of a drip loop.

Still need to be careful not to make a place for water to enter the conductor insulation and run to inside of building or structures via the interior of conductor insulation, which can easily happen if your connection is higher than the weatherhead.

We use H taps for everthing but repairing underground, then it is butt splices.
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Odd, I had a reply here but when I posted it disappeared. Anyway what I said was you need to watch that water can enter the conductor jacket and run inside the conductor insulation to whatever equipment is on the other end. This happens easily if the connection is above the weatherhead, your drip loop forms a "trap" but the inlet is too low to push water through the trap if you keep the connection below the weatherhead.

Hv&Lv said:
No, it was the right die. we had them checked out. Ice is a powerful force that little can stop.
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Check out the Great lakes and other terrain in that region of the continent.
 
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