Burying a splice that is soldered and insulated

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A question in another thread got me thinking about this and I couldn't find anything in the NEC that covers burying a soldered splice.

Anyone know what article?
 
110.14(B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be soldered. All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall be covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or with an insulating device identified for the purpose.
Wire connectors or splicing means installed on conductors for direct burial shall be listed for such use.
 
Not to be a PITA but if you can bury a splice in the ground (dierct burial cable) then from a practical standpoint, why not bury one in a box w/cover in a slab or wall or ??? I know the NEC says 'no' but it seems more of a design issue than a safety issue. I don't bury slices so just stay with the thought process. I've had a rough day.
 
bkludecke said:
Not to be a PITA but if you can bury a splice in the ground (dierct burial cable) then from a practical standpoint, why not bury one in a box w/cover in a slab or wall or ???
Ever try to burn the dirt down? ;)

I've had a rough day.
Here, have a cold one on me. :)

beerchug.gif
 
georgestolz said:
Ever try to burn the dirt down?
My last fire job was a house fire started by a bad UF splice to a post light that was just under the mulch in a flower bed. The proper burial depth was not observed.
 
I guess I should have been a little more specific.

A previous employer of mine had me working on a kitchen remodel and we needed to relocate a switch to accommodate a cabinet. The knob & tube feeding the existing light circuit at the switch that needed moved also fed through to a few more lights down stream but rather than remove plaster to run a new feed to pick up the other lights or installing a JB with a blank cover and cutting an access hole in the back of the new cabinet, he soldered and taped the K&T feed to the K&T feeding the other lights, had the carpenter patch over it and told me it was the only NEC approved method burying a splice in a wall. I have always wondered if he was BSing me or if it was actually acceptable. I can't find anything in NEC that say it is so I wondered what others might say.
 
I'd say he was pulling your leg.

Inline splices are forbidden in 394.56, and detailed instructions for how K&T conductors are supposed to enter a box are given in 314.17(B) and (C).
 
georgestolz said:
I'd say he was pulling your leg.

Inline splices are forbidden in 394.56, and detailed instructions for how K&T conductors are supposed to enter a box are given in 314.17(B) and (C).

There it is right here in the book.

Thanks for the info George, another myth busted!
 
Besides, I'd believe a splice dependent upon solder for conductivity one of the worst to even consider burying. :roll:
 
LarryFine said:
Besides, I'd believe a splice dependent upon solder for conductivity one of the worst to even consider burying. :roll:

hmm.
I like soldered joints just for conductivity and reliability.
I've not done AC power cables in solder, but it seems like it would work as well.

I think the old K&T soldered joints were actually better than a wire nut as far as connection integrity.
 
LECTRISHIN,

The key point, to me, is the "existing switch".

Was the K&T fished, or roughed in on open framing, or was there a transition from, say, BX cable to K&T at this switch?
LECTRISHIN said:
The knob & tube feeding the existing light circuit at the switch that needed moved also fed through to a few more lights down stream but rather than remove plaster to run a new feed to pick up the other lights or installing a JB with a blank cover and cutting an access hole in the back of the new cabinet, he soldered and taped the K&T feed to the K&T feeding the other lights,. . .
What do you recall. Were there porcelain knobs nailed or screwed to the the studs at the switch box location, was the K&T floppy and in long, loose loom, or was there an armored cable ending at a connector?

If the K&T is twisted and soldered between two knobs (the knobs at the switch) then there is no "in line or strain" splice, and I think your old boss was correct.

If the BX has a "monkey face" fitting and the BX is strapped down, and the K&T is coming off knobs at the switch location, then, again, there is no "in line or strain" splice, and, again, I think your old boss got it right.

Splicing K&T requires a mechanical splice, twisting, before soldering per 110.14(B). The solder is not the sole conductive path. The conductors that are talked about in the OP are simple branch circuit current carrying and don't have the "solder restrictions" that grounding or service conductors do. I'd argue that K&T soldered splices are far harder to contaminate with water, oil, dust, etc., than those in pressure connectors that aren't filled with gel or epoxy, and therefor are better splices.
 
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