Can woes

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Re: Can woes

Okay, I've been doing some digging and discovered my model can on their website.

A .pdf with the spec's is here.

I have the same trim in my house, a RM30WOV, which is listed for use with this can with a 75W R30 bulb. I think I'll get cracking on that letter.

I just wish I hadn't tossed the thermal sensor. :( :mad:

Edit to ask: What is old "FPE"?

[ April 02, 2005, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: georgestolz ]
 
Re: Can woes

George, I think that the "stops" are there to stop you from sliding the socket up all the way. Non IC cans don't have that restriction. Usually I use short neck halogen lamps so that it is recessed up into the trim.
 
Re: Can woes

Originally posted by jimwalker:
FPE was one of the finest panel makers we ever had.There breakers never gave out,they held all thru the fire to the bitter end ;)
Click to expand...
They also had nice orange handles that made them easier to see, and they came out of the panel very easily. Almost like they weren't really secure to begin with.
 
Re: Can woes

George, I notice in the specs they show an illustration of the can using an "IC Trim" (See note, top, right) that requires the light socket to "Attach" to it at the top. I think those trims act as an additional heat shield. The RM30WOV you use is an open baffle. Is the RM30WOV an "IC trim"?

Dave
 
Re: Can woes

Dave I just double checked the Juno cans I use. "Can be completely covered in insulation". That is their spec.
 
Re: Can woes

Scott, very interesting!
I'll have to research my brand now to find out.
I may have been making a big stink to the GCs about nothing!

:eek:

Dave
 
Re: Can woes

Originally posted by electricmanscott:
George, I think that the "stops" are there to stop you from sliding the socket up all the way. Non IC cans don't have that restriction.
Click to expand...
Those "stops" might be the only thing that makes them an IC can!?!?

:confused:
Dave
 
Re: Can woes

Originally posted by davedottcom:
The RM30WOV you use is an open baffle. Is the RM30WOV an "IC trim"?
Click to expand...
Since it has a bulb rating listed in the IC column of the specs sheet, I would assume so. But I am just coming up to speed on this issue. Never gave it much thought before. Never needed to, or so I thought. :(

Scott, do you think the air gap provided at the lowest setting would dissipate more heat? It stands to reason, I'm just making sure that's what you're saying.
George, I think that the "stops" are there to stop you from sliding the socket up all the way. Non IC cans don't have that restriction.
Click to expand...
Don't you think that could be a brand-difference, too?

You could be right, the Capri's are dual rated (IC/Non-IC), with a peel-off label for different bulb/trim specs for non-IC installations. Could be that part of that is the ability to raise the bulb-plate only in non-IC installations. They should make that clearer if that's the case though. :roll:
 
Re: Can woes

One other note, the IC-rated remodel Capri's I have in my kitchen have no such stops, but the thermal is also on the side of the can, not on the top. :confused:

Oy vey.
 
Re: Can woes

George, this has me concerned too. I think most of us have pushed the bulbs up without thinking about it.
I have a feeling this is what's going on:

1)The stops are the reason the can is IC listed.
2)The space above the bulb at the IC "stop" level IS the difference in heat decipation.
3)The can's design "Allows" the bulb to be pushed up past the "stop" level but only for Non-IC situations.
4)If you have these "Pushed up bulbs" installed & buried under insulation, removing the insulation should make it a non-IC situation again.

Just my opinion of course.

Dave
 
Re: Can woes

At the risk of conceding that I'm not a bulb expert, do they make a short R30 lamp? I've only seen regular ones. This is something I can bring up and address rather quickly.

To be perfectly honest, I prefer installing the Capri's over Halo's. I haven't installed many others (not enough to remember different brands), but Capri's are easier to install as a nail-on. Of course, if they're fire hazards that will end, but I'm holding out optimistic hope that this will find a conclusion where I can keep installing these in good conscience.

Besides, I'm not the one purchasing these, so changing that will be a process. They are UL listed, so this one event I've had isn't very conclusive.

Obviously, I recognize the hazard that prompted me to post, but we'll see what happens when I bring it up with Capri.
 
Re: Can woes

Originally posted by electricmanscott:
Originally posted by jimwalker:
FPE was one of the finest panel makers we ever had.There breakers never gave out,they held all thru the fire to the bitter end ;)
Click to expand...
They also had nice orange handles that made them easier to see, and they came out of the panel very easily. Almost like they weren't really secure to begin with.
Click to expand...
And the apprentice keeps turning the circuit 'ON' when you ask him to shut it 'OFF'.
 
Re: Can woes

Originally posted by georgestolz:
do they make a short R30 lamp?
Click to expand...
Short R-30: No
Short PAR-30: Yes

PAR 30S Short neck Halogen Lamps are available in 50-60&75 watt from Phillips.

M.O.L. (Maximum Overall Length) = 3 & 5/8 in.

Dave
 
Re: Can woes

Let me ask this, would the type of insulation make a difference? I ask cuz an EC brought this up to me last fri. He also mentioned he had problems with capri & the cellulose insulation that George mentioned in his first post.Ron
 
Re: Can woes

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by electricmanscott:

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by jimwalker:
FPE was one of the finest panel makers we ever had.There breakers never gave out,they held all thru the fire to the bitter end
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

They also had nice orange handles that made them easier to see, and they came out of the panel very easily. Almost like they weren't really secure to begin with.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And the apprentice keeps turning the circuit 'ON' when you ask him to shut it 'OFF'.
Click to expand...
The hotter they got, the tighter they hung on to the buss!

Ustacould buy a 200Amp main breaker 3R panel for less than $25. These were used primarily for trailer (mobile homes) services. Pretty scary now, since a trailer is a tinder box to start with!
 
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