CB Lockout/Tagout For Residential Work

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JFletcher

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Location
Williamsburg, VA
I have a few questions about energized wiring in residential work. One of my previous jobs was industrial plants, and any time the electrician was working on eqpt, a lockout had to be used. If multiple people were working on eqpt, a gang lock was used and each person/trade had their own lock. I thought this a great safety protocol. Tagouts, iirc, could only be used in temporary situations or if it was physically impossible to put a LO on the device/eqpt (applied to more than breakers).

In residential, I see power turned off by switches, or at best a breaker that is off and the circuit verified off by tester. Here are my concerns:

1) Say the new home has power, but not all of the eqpt is in (range, microwave, dishwasher, AC units, etc). These breakers are off, but what keeps another trade from going in the panel to reset a breaker, say from a tripped chopsaw, and energizing a circuit that isnt terminated to a receptacle/eqpt? Few resi panels have locking doors, and taping off the end of a wire, while better than nothing, doesnt seem right to me.

2) Say the same new, almost finished home has multiple trades working there. You have turned off power to a circuit you are working on. Same chopsaw trips breaker. The man goes to reset the breaker and by accident turns on the one you have your hands in. and to make this as bad as possible, say it's a 240V line to an AC in a HOT attic, and you are making the connections whilst leaning against a nice metal ductwork. Sounds like a bad day in the making.

I've also been on a fair number of commercial jobs where LO isnt used. My question is this (finally!): is LO/TO required for use anytime one might have their hands on wiring that could become energized? istm that LO/TO is largely ignored on smaller scale jobs. Is that because they are rarely OSHA inspected, or is it legal/permissable to do work on circuits that are not failsafe de-energized?

eta: after looking at lockout kits, it appears that tags are for the locks, not for sole circuit/eqpt isolation.
 
The OSHA requirements are the same for residential as they are for industrial.


The reality is no one follows those rules on jobs that are not likely to get OSHA inspections. Many smaller companies don't even have the training to realize they are breaking any rules.
 
We just tell everyone on the job we are shutting off a breaker to work on something and mark that breaker with tape.

If we think we need a lock because someone may turn the breaker on, we just lift the conductor(s) off the breaker and tape them off.

The only time we have ever had a problem with people turning breakers on was commercial and industrial work. Never have we had to deal with it in res. work.
 
Remember that OSHA is there to protect employees.

If you are a one man show - it sort of doesn't really apply to you - you are not an employee. It may still be good to be aware of some of those rules especially if you work around others that likely are employees and are effected by same hazards.

Outside of that I would still likely find a way to disable the ability to turn on what I will be working on. From example already given, say the range cable is already connected to the breaker but nothing at the load end - if others are working there when connecting the range/outlet I may put a lock on that breaker, disconnect the ungrounded conductors, unplug the breaker from the bus... if I had any concerns, most of the time I don't and do nothing but verify the breaker is off.

True there is typically no OSHA inspectors showing up at many of these sites and that non compliant practices do commonly happen. Anytime there is a serious accident or loss of life there usually is an investigation, and often fines for those that should have been doing something differently, this goes for any on the job hazard not just electrical hazards.
 
Tape it off

Tape it off

Most times in Resi I would just red tape it off; thereare not many people to deal with at that point (finish).
I have put notes on the panel “no not touch anything without seeing mefirst". But main thing is "Watch out for yourself don't trustanyone".

 
Been working in the real world of residential for over 45 years. Lock/tag out dosen't happen. Temp power is put on a house at rough-in. The panel cover in screwed on with a notice of some sort that the panel is hot. All is good until the drywall guys show up. After that, all bets are off as to if you will ever see the cover again. We used to use cardboard. The electrician is not supposed to install the breakers until compleat trim out. Again the note shows up about do not turn on breakers...yadayadayada. If you are concerned about lock out/tag out, as you should be, have your own.
 
I'm probably going to regret typing this, but how many consider 120V and 277V a big dif?

Also, how many consider Xformer KVA & proximity?

~RJ~
 
I'm probably going to regret typing this, but how many consider 120V and 277V a big dif?

Also, how many consider Xformer KVA & proximity?

~RJ~

After several encounters with both, I would say that 120 tickles, while 277 feels like you are being hit with a sledge hammer.

As for KVA and proximity, I never thought about it but do agree it makes a big difference when it comes to arc blasts. Not so much for being shocked, though.
 
CB Lockout/Tagout For Residential Work

A) always always always treat every wire as if it were hot. If you own a gun, you treat it the same right? Electricity is no different.

B) If you're working hot and are worried about someone coming behind you either have a helper stand there for a few min and guard the panel or put caution tape over the panel with a sign that says "electrician working near by, do not touch this panel or you could kill me." Pretty straight forward there.

C) Again, always treat it like its hot. I tape off/cap off everything I work on...even if I know nobody will turn something on. Good habits in this trade are what keeps people going home to their families everyday. I would even go a step further to tell every trade on the job that I am working on something that cannot be energized so if they need a breaker turned back on I will gladly do it for them so there is no incident.


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I'm probably going to regret typing this, but how many consider 120V and 277V a big dif?

Also, how many consider Xformer KVA & proximity?

~RJ~

I always treat them the same. 277v with only one lightbulb on will hurt less than 120v with a 20amp motor running. 277v x 1a = 277watts // 120v x 20a = 2400watts. Which would you prefer to get burned with?

I admit though I've been nailed by 277v on a full row of (20) 4-lamp t8s. Holy Sh*t did I get down and reconsider my life. Also been shocked by a 9,000 neon xfmr while leaning on a grid ceiling. After about 600v it starts jumping through the air at you to find a lower impedance path to source if you give it one. Luckily the 9,000v was for a small isolated tube that only drew a fraction of an amp.


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Ever crossed 2 277v phases? Lol. Once I stuck my needle nose in behind a contactor to pull the staycons off of the coil leads. Shorted a 277v coil to a different 277v phase on the contactor and I watched the 4th of July happen in December!

I was an idiot back then...no way would I ever do this without turning the circuits off nowdays.


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I'm probably going to regret typing this, but how many consider 120V and 277V a big dif?

Also, how many consider Xformer KVA & proximity?

~RJ~

Most will say they remember that 277 volt hit that did seem more noticeable then most of the 120 volt hits they ever took. Either can still kill you nearly instantaneously if conditions are right.

transformer kVA and proximity mostly effects arc blast potential, many get accustomed to the arc levels they often see in a typical dwelling or light commercial application where there is often a relatively low incident energy level, then they are totally amazed when they have an incident at that one place that has the transformer real close to the service equipment even though it maybe is still only a 200 amp single phase panel they are working in or near.
 
Thank you for all the replies, lots of good info here. re: 277V vs 120V, my understanding is that 277V can push enough current thru you to physically lock you to energized eqpt: you cant let go. Is this generally true? Ive seen the results of 4 different 277/480V incidents.

#1, electrician at a WW plant I was working at was performing PMs on the incinerator breakers. He touched phase to ground on a 480V 1/2 HP shaft drive motor, and it tripped the building's 2000A main. Screwdriver blown in half and bright light/loud noise, but otherwise ok. #2, six months later, same electrician went phase-phase on a 150HP motor breaker cab; almost lost his eyesight from the arc. He was out of work for eight weeks recovering. #3, watched a very senior electrician (22 years) come into work the next day with what looked like a sunburn and no more almost-ZZ Top looking beard. #4, my old boss had a scar on his hand where he came into contact with 277V lighting while in a suspended ceiling. He was locked on, his flailing managed to kick out the ladder he was working on and he fell free of the line.

I've been bitten hand-hand twice by 120V under pretty un-ideal conditions (well grounded, profuse sweat) and it is definitely not something I want to repeat. Ignition voltage is pretty bad too. Even telephone ring voltage, while kneeling on wet grass, can be unpleasant, especially when you jerk away from it and crack your elbow.

teufelhounden91, Ive never been hit by 277/480, but even if one isnt in the wiring, not locking out can have other bad results. About 7 years ago, I was on a commercial jobsite, when the lead electrician came storming down the hallway cursing quite a bit. He had been on top of the elevator cab wiring something in the shaft. His crew knew he was up there, but the superintendent and elevator guy didnt, so they hop in the elevator and move the car. Shock/electrocution are not the only risks; crush, engulfment, being caught in moving eqpt, etc are possibilities, in industrial surroundings anyway.

Anyway, I'll be looking into a LO set soon. If anyone has one designed for resi/smaller breaker use, a link/model would be appreciated.
 
I always treat them the same. 277v with only one lightbulb on will hurt less than 120v with a 20amp motor running. 277v x 1a = 277watts // 120v x 20a = 2400watts. Which would you prefer to get burned with?

Could you explain what this has to do with the price of tea in China? It doesn't even make sense.
 
When does OSHA show their face?
When someone gets injured or killed.
If something goes bad, you're toast.
 
Could you explain what this has to do with the price of tea in China? It doesn't even make sense.


I think he meant if you got inline with it. But I would want the greater load in his example because it put more resistance in the circuit in front of you for more voltage drop.
 
I think he meant if you got inline with it. But I would want the greater load in his example because it put more resistance in the circuit in front of you for more voltage drop.
Actually the greater load should have a lower resistance, but at same time human body resistance is pretty high and wouldn't matter much if you are in series with a 2400VA load or a 1 VA load, you are still going to see about same voltage and current applied to you .
 
Many years ago, I was studying making a two way switch connection with a lamp and some wires after simply switching off the main switch (service disconnector) to our home. With no knowledge of my doing this, my brother switched the main switch on, while he was going out. I received a shock as I was giving connection but fortunately escaped without any injury.
 
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