Ceiling Fan Control...

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1793

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Location
Louisville, Kentucky
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Inspector
I have been asked to look at a job that would require a ceiling fan being mounted in a decorative beam in a bedroom. This is a vaulted ceiling with no access from above. There are two rows of three each recess lights on either side of this beam controlled by two single pole switches.

HO has been told that the new ceiling fan outlet can be wired from the existing lighting circuit wiring by the use of a DHC Control Dimmer/System.

I would like to know more about this setup if anyone knows or would be so kind as to share.
 
I've seen the remote sensors sold at suplly houses, lowes, HD, etc. The HO may want to just purchase a fan with feature built in. It has been a while since I installed the add-on, but I remember some trouble fitting the sensor and wiring into the canopy. The factory units install same as normal fan and uses regular 120v. I think they even come with a remote holder that mounts over the existing switch so it won't get turned off by accident. Or just disconnect switch leg at the device. (Tieing it into comstant 120v, of course. :wink: )
 
Just make sure you change the DIP switches before you hang it. They all seem to be set the same, and you don't want it to interfere with any other fans that may be RC'd.
 
I'm sure I'm off base here but let try to explain this again. The other electrician has told the HO that they will put all six of the lights on one switch and use the wiring for one of the rows of recess lighting to control the fan.

I have not opened any of the light j-boxes nor did I open the three gang switch box that currently controls the two rows of lights to see how they are wired. I'm assuming that the lights on one side only have a two wire connecting them together so I don't see how we can get a "constant" hot up to the fan.

I do have some photos of the room that I will try to get posted.
 
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when installing the fan be more careful than normal folding your wires into the box with the remote control device, it only fits one way! The first time I did it I almost switched careers(I shoulda been a **** plumber!):grin: . Like riding a bike though if you don't get in a rush.
 
1793 said:
... The other electrician has told the HO that they will

Hmmmmmm, not sure I'd like to be doing work that someone else said was possible, but hey, work is work, which leads to $.

Looks like you'll need to tie the two sets of cans together, then tie onto the unused switched circuit and backtrack it to the fan. Hopefully you have some sort of chase you can use to reroute the existing circuits. Otherwise, you're SOL.
 
480sparky said:
Hmmmmmm, not sure I'd like to be doing work that someone else said was possible, but hey, work is work, which leads to $.

Looks like you'll need to tie the two sets of cans together, then tie onto the unused switched circuit and backtrack it to the fan. Hopefully you have some sort of chase you can use to reroute the existing circuits. Otherwise, you're SOL.

That is my point. I THINK i would have to jump from one side of the ceiling to the other for each of the three recess, over the top, to join the lights and then jump from the center light to the new fan.

I will try to draw this out and post.

Am I making too much of this? It appears someone else has no problem making this happen.
 
Ceiling2.JPG


You only need to 'cross' the ceiling twice to refeed the cans on the lower left. Once you feed the one in the lower right from the one from the upper right, then feed the one in the lower center from the one in the upper center, the line betwen the lower center and lower left can stay. What used to feed the left center can be extended to the ceiling fan.

Clear as mud?
 
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480Sparky:

I do see your point about only crossing the ceiling twice. My point was that I would have to cross the ceiling at all and to do this with no damage would be a trick.

This is not an accusatory question: Do you think you could you do this without doing any demo?
 
Most vaulted ceiling have a ridge beam in them that you must cross. Without being there with my x-ray goggles, I couldn't tell you if you will be able to cross the ridge. However, some ridge beams are not as tall as the ends of the rafters.
You may be able to cross in the center by using the ceiling fan location as an access point, but the other crossing may not be possible.

Here's what I envision you having to contend with: Sorry for the image quality, this is best i could find in my photo files.
DSC04024a.JPG
 
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480sparky said:
Most vaulted ceiling have a ridge beam in them that you must cross. Without being there with my x-ray goggles, I couldn't tell you if you will be able to cross the ridge. However, some ridge beams are not as tall as the ends of the rafters.
You may be able to cross in the center by using the ceiling fan location as an access point, but the other crossing may not be possible.

Here's what I envision you having to contend with: Sorry for the quality, this is best i could do.
DSC04024a.JPG

That is exactly my point or position. There is other work at this location and I have been asked to submit an Estimate for this and the other work. I'm not sure how to handle this situation.
 
I'd explain there's too many variables to guarantee it can be it done without doing some demo. I'd say go T&M... not to exceed $X.xx. We're electricians, not magicians. Just because they rhyme doesn't mean we do the same thing.

I do have two questions:
1. What is the pitch (slope) of the ceiling?
2. How far are the cans away from the peak?
 
480sparky said:
. .. I do have two questions:
1. What is the pitch (slope) of the ceiling?
2. How far are the cans away from the peak?

I don't know the pitch
The cans are about 3 to 4 feet from the ridge.
 
1793 said:
The cans are about 3 to 4 feet from the ridge.
Fishing across the ridge should be easy enough by dropping the necessary cans and using a long flex-bit (if there is a ridge board - trusses would not have one) and a fishtape.
 
LarryFine said:
Fishing across the ridge should be easy enough by dropping the necessary cans and using a long flex-bit (if there is a ridge board - trusses would not have one) and a fishtape.

I can see that as an option. I'm sure there is some insulation to work around as well. I have not had much luck with the Flex Bits in the past. With my luck I would more than likely drill through the roof.

I'll follow up if I get this job or decide to take it on.
 
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