Cheap Spade connectors

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JoeNorm

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WA
I bought these recently on Amazon:

They look very cheap, as one might expect. It got me wondering if It would be a bad decision to use them at all on residential circuits. Says "comply with UL standards."

What are thoughts on these? Is there a better brand of a similar kit you might recommend?
 
I bought these recently on Amazon:

They look very cheap, as one might expect. It got me wondering if It would be a bad decision to use them at all on residential circuits. Says "comply with UL standards."

What are thoughts on these? Is there a better brand of a similar kit you might recommend?
The words "comply with UL standards" almost always means that the product has not been tested and listed by a recognized testing organization.

I typically use the T&B Sta-Kon band for small crimp connectors.

In addition, most residential wiring is solid conductors, and while listed crimp connectors are listed for use on solid conductors, I see no good reason to add another connection point (possible point of failure) to the circuit by using a crimp connector on solid conductors.
 
Always better to use good quality connectors like StaKons, rather then off breed ones of dubious origin.
 
Residential OK if properly crimped.
Residential basically has no vibration. I'd not use if in an electrical box mounted on a table saw or concrete mixer frame, and never on a genset.

Would avoid 'forks' of any type for automotive and definitely not on an airplane. On automotive or aircraft or genset, do not use fork connectors anyway, always use terminals with holes, again the vibration concern.

they are 'cheap', metal is thinner than good quality lugs. For 120/240 V 60 Hz, the cheaper plastic really does not matter as still plenty of insulation.
 
Getting a good crimp by using a good-quality compound-leverage crimping tool is probably more important than the selection of crimp connectors.

I also get the best results when using the largest wire size listed for the connector and leaving the least amount of empty space.
 
Can never go wrong with the T&B sta kons. Use the T&B tool to secure the best crimp. I never purchase or use test or safety equipment tools or supplies made in lack of quality control china.
 
Getting a good crimp by using a good-quality compound-leverage crimping tool is probably more important than the selection of crimp connectors.

I also get the best results when using the largest wire size listed for the connector and leaving the least amount of empty space.

I don’t know about that. I’ve seen some pretty questionable connectors before. Made with the same material as heavy duty tin foil I’m pretty sure.

I would argue both items have an equal roll in producing a good product. But if there was more weight in one direction then I would place it on the quality of the connector. I don’t care how good you crimp it. If it’s too thin to maintain that crimp then it’s still no good.
 
It's important to use a proper crimping tool with any crimp on Terminal. The other thing is with these kind of terminals is some have a welded barrel and some do not. The kind that are made just by forming the barrel and not welding at the seam are more likely to fail.

But realistically I would not get too excited about it one way or another. It's sort of true that ring terminals are more secure, but they make a fork terminal that the tines of the fork are a little closer together at the end so they grabbed the screw.
 
The price is a tip off. Less than $14 for 240 pieces. Can't be very high quality
It's a low price but I wouldn't let the price put you off too much. They're probably suitable for a lot of things and for most cases you probably would never know the difference. I haven't looked at the price of good quality terminals of this type in a while but while they're more they're not all that much more.

100 packs of similar terminals from panduit typically sell for under $20, sometimes closer to 10. Depends a lot on where you buy them. if you buy them from Granger they might be a dollar a piece.
 
I buy the sta-kon or the 3m. Both are good. I avoid the cheap one. As you tighten terminal screws down the cheap ones just spread out and then feel like they will break if the wire bends on them too much. Not worth the hassle in my mind. I've also noticed that the wire pulls out of the cheap crimp connecters with a lot less force. With the good connectors I will actually break the wire or damage the insulation before they will pull out. This is with a crimp from by Knipex crimpers that force you to crimp all the way before they release.
 
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