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Merry Christmas
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So if the railing sticks out 4", what would the problem with a light be?
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The applicable code in the IRC would be:

R311.5.1 Width. Stairways shall not be less than 36 inches (914mm) in clear width at all points above the permitted handrail height and below the required headroom height. Handrails shall not project more than 4.5 inches (114 mm) on either side of the stairway and the minimum clear width of the stairway at and below the handrail height, including treads and landings, shall not be less than 31.5 inches (787 mm) where a handrail is installed on one side and 27 inches (698 mm) where handrails are provided on both sides.
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The building code requires a minimum clear stair width. Specific allowances are made for handrails. If a light is below the minimum headroom (6' 8") and protrudes into the required 36" stair width then it is in violation of the building code. Notice that the required width changes at and below the handrail height.
 
eprice said:
The building code requires a minimum clear stair width. Specific allowances are made for handrails. If a light is below the minimum headroom (6' 8") and protrudes into the required 36" stair width then it is in violation of the building code. Notice that the required width changes at and below the handrail height.
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If the stairwell were 4' wide then this light would not be an issue or am I incorrect?
 
LawnGuyLandSparky said:
I don't think the problem is that electricians don't want to do quality work, it's that in many instances, they don't know how to do quality work. Generally, people who work for a living have a desire to do a good job.

As for code courses, there are many people in the construction industries because they cannot read and cannot comprehend. They could memorize an article chapter and verse, but their minds cannot apply what's in the book to the physical world.
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Well after a very long day cleaning up after another electrical mistake, I would like to ask all electricians to KEEP FISH TAPES OUT OF SWITCHGEAR.

They thought they were pushing into a conduit that went to a new control panel but went pushed into the conduit that lead to the 480/277 VAC gear.

No one was hurt.
 
brian john said:
Well after a very long day cleaning up after another electrical mistake, I would like to ask all electricians to KEEP FISH TAPES OUT OF SWITCHGEAR.

They thought they were pushing into a conduit that went to a new control panel but went pushed into the conduit that lead to the 480/277 VAC gear.

No one was hurt.
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Anything left of the fish tape ?
 
No the fish tape was vaporized and there is carbon, steel and copper splatter everywhere and the powder that fire departments utilize in their dry extinguishers.
 
tangents

tangents

brian john said:
No the fish tape was vaporized and there is carbon, steel and copper splatter everywhere and the powder that fire departments utilize in their dry extinguishers.
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I had this same thing happen once 10-12 years ago with an apprentice standing in front of the panel (3o 120/208 on 400a fuses). He was blinded for a few hours, and in pain for more than a day from the flash. It was an emergency room trip.

The end of the tape was vaporized and the three bus bars were not salvageable. He recovered 100%, but that's a mistake you only make once. It's never happened again to anyone who was there that day. It sticks in your head for awhile.

Jeremy
Tulsa, Ok
 
Jerm:

This was not by one of my employees but another contractor, this is the 3rd time this year, different contractors everytime. This it totally avoidable, look at what you are doing, trace any conduit you are pushing a tape into especially when you ran one or more conduit into a energized panel, gear, ect, use a fiberglass tape.
 
brian john said:
This was not by one of my employees but another contractor, this is the 3rd time this year, different contractors everytime. This it totally avoidable, ..... use a fiberglass tape.
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It amazes me that some companies don't consider it standard proceedure to send out fiberglass fishtape for any job that requires installing conductors in a preexisting conduits
 
I've seen job specs that require all unused conduits be capped with a threaded cap inside all energized cabinets/panels [threaded, not just duct tape]. . There is a blank plastic cap with female threads available that can screw onto a connector or rigid thread. . Later when you take that cap off, you have to replace it with a plastic bushing when installing wires #4 or larger [300.4(F)].
 
Whenever I need to push a fish tape into an energized panel, I do it with my own little home-made safety devices.

Go to the plumbing department of any hardware store or home center. Get a threaded PVC coupler and a threaded cap. Screw the cap into the coupler. Do this for each size conduit you need (I only have 1/2, 3/4 and 1").

To use this, simply screw the two peices onto the threads of the conduit connector. Push you tape in, and when it stops dead, it is in your fitting. Unscrew it, and pull the tape on in.

Cheap, easy, and safe.
 
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