Coach Light on block wall

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jayrad1122

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A new customer of mine would like a coach light installed outside a basement door. The doorway leads to the backyard underneath a deck. The basement has a drop ceiling installed. I can drill a hole above the drop ceiling between the floor joists and come out between the deck joists. The basement wall is block.

How can you install a coach light on a surface mount a box? They usually
overhang surface mount boxes and don't sit flush.

Is there a special box for these situations?

How would you as a contractor, deal with this situation?

-Jared
 
if its just a plain block wall, I would suggest a tallpack fixture or somthing that will mount on a w.p. box, if they are wanting somthing more residential and decorative, I would cut into the block and recess a box and mount the fixture flush to the wall...
 
Cut an accurate hole in the block and use a metal box with ears. Affix it into the block with liberal amounts of either construction adhesive (PL Premium highly recommended) or with spray foam. This will let you use any fixture you want to.
 
It's called a pancake box, I'm dislexic and always call them waffle boxes...

If the client can tolerate it, I'd run MC to some point down the wall inside and pop directly into the pancake box, hole coin only in the back of it.

And ya'll where wondering what I was doing next week... :roll:
The open faced circle is 3/8" deep, the lamp wall cap covers it....
 
You could use one of these.

ArlingtonOutdoorFixtureBox.jpg
 
cadpoint said:
It's called a pancake box, I'm dislexic and always call them waffle boxes...

If the client can tolerate it, I'd run MC to some point down the wall inside and pop directly into the pancake box, hole coin only in the back of it.

And ya'll where wondering what I was doing next week... :roll:
The open faced circle is 3/8" deep, the lamp wall cap covers it....
Click to expand...

Oh alright, easy enough. I could see fishing a wire down the wall will be a little time consuming. It doesn't need to be in MC b/c of 334.10(A)(2) and I wouldn't consider it a wet or damp location because the wall is not buried. Am I correct?

Apparently I should be estimating more hours for my installs, so how long would it take to fish down the wall? I'll put it at two hours, maybe a little more?

Marc, I went on the site and they didn't have any supplier in a 50 mile radius of me:-? Where could I go to get this for future installations?

Thank you all for helping.:)

- Jared
 
480sparky said:
Fine if the light comes from the Orange or Blue Store. But most lights that come from a lighting store have bases on them the size of Delaware.
Click to expand...
Unless, of course, the hole in the wall is 1/4" larger than it has to be, in which case the fixture base will be too small to cover it. :roll:
 
jayrad1122 said:
Apparently I should be estimating more hours for my installs, so how long would it take to fish down the wall? I'll put it at two hours, maybe a little more?



- Jared
Click to expand...

fishing down a block wall isnt that hard, just make your holes inside and out ( usually you can just pop a hole in the block with a hammer) drop some fixture chain in the wall from above, it will usually be able to fall past your hole if you jiggle it around, then make a hook out of a piece of coat hanger to pull the chain out through the lower hole on the outside of the building, tie your wire on to the chain and pull it through....:smile:
 
What about a actional mud box. They are made to be mounted into the block. Cut your hole small and tight and wadge it in and add a little mortar if need. Then the finish product is a nice neat job with a flush box.
 
You could use a Arlington # MB8-1, it is an 8" round mounting block that looks good and is forgiving if the hole is a little to large.
 
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