Code violation 314.20

[michalspike]

I thought I understand it good that this for combustible material only, I thought if your walls are metal studs and sheetrock your box can be set up back more than 1/4 inch.
Is anybody have different opinion.
Is this ring will fix it
Thank you for our help.

 

[mopowr steve]

Way I understand it is, up to 1/4" if the surrounding material is non-combustible and if combustable then no setback is allowed. Unless you have a method such as your showing to address the issue.

 

[al hildenbrand]

I agree with Steve.

Combustible wall surface - the box must be flush or stand proud of the wall (stick out of the wall).

Noncombustible wall surface, the box can be as much as 1/4" behind the finished wall surface. If the box is more than 1/4" behind the finished surface, an extension ring of some sort, or a box extender must cover the gap.

 

[infinity]

As mentioned setback no more than 1/4" non-combustible, 0" combustible. The box extenders depicted in the OP will satisfy the code if you're more than 1/4" back from the surface of drywall.

 

[JFletcher]

Note that, with plastic boxes anyway, the cost of those extension rings and original box exceeds the cost of an adjustable box, especially when you consider the extra labor of futzing around with stackers and extra long 6-32 screws to mount your devices.

As others have written, boxes must be flush if the surrounding surface is combustible, like wooden paneling, and may be up to 1/4" inset/recessed from non-combustible wall surfaces like drywall. If you are more than 1/4" recessed, you neeed an extension ring/box extender like you linked.

Zip boxes are quite a bit more than cheapie plastic boxes, tho not a whole lot more than your sturdier, higher ci boxes. Some areas, like kitchen countertop boxes and receptacles in baseboard trim, it works out better in many cases to put in the zip box. What happens when the HO decides to add (or delete) a tile backsplash, or orders bb trim a different thickness than what you planned for? With a zip box, that inset or poking out box is fixed in 3 seconds for no additional cost on your end.

eta: stud type has no bearing on 314.20; it is only the wall finish that matters.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I thought I understand it good that this for combustible material only, I thought if your walls are metal studs and sheetrock your box can be set up back more than 1/4 inch.
Is anybody have different opinion.
Is this ring will fix it
Thank you for our help.

View attachment 15133

If you use that metal ring then, IMO, you must ground it to the box

 

[jumper]

If you use that metal ring then, IMO, you must ground it to the box

My inspectors have always required it. Used those ground clip dohickies. I suppose one could say that the metal to metal contact of a device to the extension ring satisfied bonding requirements, but it was easier to comply.

 

[ServiceCall]

That's why I use the plastic ones by Arlington.

 

[augie47]

That's why I use the plastic ones by Arlington.

:thumbsup:

The "adjustable" boxes have not become popular here and Mr. Arlington should have been able to purchase a new car based on sales in this area due to the popularity of walls/ceilings finished with 3/4 thick lumber.

 

[JFletcher]

That's why I use the plastic ones by Arlington.

Same here hence my link to them.

:thumbsup:

The "adjustable" boxes have not become popular here and Mr. Arlington should have been able to purchase a new car based on sales in this area due to the popularity of walls/ceilings finished with 3/4 thick lumber.

Madison and Carlon make em too, even in steel. I find them anytime wall, ceiling, or floor detail is subject to change-exterior ceilings with furring strips also come to mind. Its often not worth my time to try to track down what kind of wall board, paneling, etc will be used, or redo boxes because of a change order.

 

[Strathead]

My inspectors have always required it. Used those ground clip dohickies. I suppose one could say that the metal to metal contact of a device to the extension ring satisfied bonding requirements, but it was easier to comply.

I respectfully disagree for mostly annecdotal reasons. First They are grounded via the screw and the contact with the yoke of the receptacle or the switch. Second, that method of grounding was allowed until the early 90's even for receptacles. Third, the metal isn't even exposed, as it is covered by a plate. Fourth, if you need to run a supplemental ground those then by extension wouldn't you need to also run a supplemental ground to a stainless steel cover plate.

 

[iwire]

I respectfully disagree

And I will repectfully disagree for my own reasons.

First They are grounded via the screw and the contact with the yoke of the receptacle or the switch.

Maybe, and that connection alone is not allowable for devices unless extra parts are added to make them 'self grounding' so why would it be acceptable for these rings?

Second, that method of grounding was allowed until the early 90's even for receptacles.

But it is not any longer.

Third, the metal isn't even exposed, as it is covered by a plate.

So we don't have to ground say boxes, EMT, RMC, MC armor that are hidden inside walls?

Fourth, if you need to run a supplemental ground those then by extension wouldn't you need to also run a supplemental ground to a stainless steel cover plate.

One is a loose connection the other is not.

 

[Strathead]

One is a loose connection the other is not.

Neither is a loos connection. The "goof" ring has ears that sit against the sheetrock and the device is firmly in contact with it. One more piece of anecdotal evidence. They have been selling them and installing them for years.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Note that, with plastic boxes anyway, the cost of those extension rings and original box exceeds the cost of an adjustable box, especially when you consider the extra labor of futzing around with stackers and extra long 6-32 screws to mount your devices.

As others have written, boxes must be flush if the surrounding surface is combustible, like wooden paneling, and may be up to 1/4" inset/recessed from non-combustible wall surfaces like drywall. If you are more than 1/4" recessed, you neeed an extension ring/box extender like you linked.

Zip boxes are quite a bit more than cheapie plastic boxes, tho not a whole lot more than your sturdier, higher ci boxes. Some areas, like kitchen countertop boxes and receptacles in baseboard trim, it works out better in many cases to put in the zip box. What happens when the HO decides to add (or delete) a tile backsplash, or orders bb trim a different thickness than what you planned for? With a zip box, that inset or poking out box is fixed in 3 seconds for no additional cost on your end.

eta: stud type has no bearing on 314.20; it is only the wall finish that matters.

Adjustables are great until the insulators install the closed cell foam around it.
I still find them helpful in kitchens and bathrooms.until then