concrete tight ok underground?

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GerryB

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woodbridge, ct. USA
I am looking online at a 4" rigid split coupling, to join 4" length and a 4" 90 that can't be turned on. It says the split coupling is concrete tight but does that mean it can be buried in dirt? Thanks.
 
GerryB said:
I am looking online at a 4" rigid split coupling, to join 4" length and a 4" 90 that can't be turned on. It says the split coupling is concrete tight but does that mean it can be buried in dirt? Thanks.
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No must be water tight. I believe they make compression fittings that have this rating.


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GerryB said:
I am looking online at a 4" rigid split coupling, to join 4" length and a 4" 90 that can't be turned on. It says the split coupling is concrete tight but does that mean it can be buried in dirt? Thanks.
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Nope they’re rain-tight not listed for direct burial.

You could use a RT/CT fitting and fill the area with concrete. I think you need 4 inches encasement if I’m not mistaken.

You could also rent a hog head like this to thread the pipe in place:

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DrSparks said:
Nope they’re rain-tight not listed for direct burial.

You could use a RT/CT fitting and fill the area with concrete. I think you need 4 inches encasement if I’m not mistaken.

You could also rent a hog head like this to thread the pipe in place:
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He said he cannot turn the conduit to spin it together so what good is threading it in place?
 
How do you get the tristand into the ditch, let alone the power pony or power head?
I can not remember a time that underground pipe wasn't wet or Full of water, and a normal threaded coupling isn't water anything until they fill with rust and dirt, which only slows the leak.
 
sameguy said:
How do you get the tristand into the ditch, let alone the power pony or power head?
I can not remember a time that underground pipe wasn't wet or Full of water, and a normal threaded coupling isn't water anything until they fill with rust and dirt, which only slows the leak.
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Doesn't need those items, just a hole hawg or other hi torque drill, wrench/socket wrench probably work also but will be slower going. But still doesn't change the fact that if you can't spin at least one of the pipes a three piece coupling is only fitting that will actually connect in such a manner even if it isn't water tight enough for requirements.

Standard couplings with straight thread are somewhat watertight but are not "water proof" regardless of what code may say.
 
kwired said:
Doesn't need those items, just a hole hawg or other hi torque drill, wrench/socket wrench probably work also but will be slower going. But still doesn't change the fact that if you can't spin at least one of the pipes a three piece coupling is only fitting that will actually connect in such a manner even if it isn't water tight enough for requirements.

Standard couplings with straight thread are somewhat watertight but are not "water proof" regardless of what code may say.
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One of the guys wanted to make a running thread but I know there is a direct reference against that in 342.42(B). (probably been done a million times). Although if you put a locknut on one side I would think it would be pretty tight. They UG conduits almost all end up with water in them anyway.
 
I would just use a fitting that is designed for RMC. According to 300.6(A)(3) all that required of the fitting is that it has corrosion protection. There are some already referenced in this thread. As far as being watertight it's not required for RMC underground.

300.6(A)(3) In Concrete or in Direct Contact with the Earth.
Ferrous metal raceways, cable armor, boxes, cable sheath-
ing, cabinets, elbows, couplings, nipples, fittings, supports,
and support hardware shall be permitted to be installed in
concrete or in direct contact with the earth, or in areas
subject to severe corrosive influences where made of mate-
rial approved for the condition, or where provided with
corrosion protection approved for the condition.
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Kwired
Too much work for me with a drill or breaker bar; I would thread out of the ditch. LOL! Besides hard to turn those long sweeps the POCO demands.
If I had to turn a 90 on in the ditch I would brace the pipe run until it came out of the ground where I could spin it on; or if only one 90 start at the 90 and work both ways, backhoe comes in handy.
 
kwired said:
Dragging 10 feet at a time sounds like a big enough task when you are talking 4 inch RMC.;)

Is one 10 foot piece of 4 inch still called a "stick"?
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Stick yes, try bending a 30 on each end of a 10' stick then screw a 10 footer on to it, then add another 10' 30deg. Offset to the other two! Crossing a small stream, two runs next day I couldn't lift my arms over my nipples! My partner was 5'4" I'm 6'1+ used a backhoe to help screw it together and set them.
 
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