Connecting Wires W/ Wire Nuts

[kwired]

This style has been around for years. WAGO just might be new to your supply house. Word of caution to use the correct size for the conductors used. Have used them, particularly useful in conditions you described. Cannot be used on stranded wire. For that I prefer the WAGO levernut. Really useful in the small razor lights with the small supplied enclosures.

They are listed for stranded conductors. Sometimes is a pain to insert without strands trying to go wild on you. I avoid the push in type on stranded as much as possible and use the lever nut type for that.

They do state they are not listed for fine stranded conductors though. Not certain on the lever nuts if they are listed for fine strand, I know I have used them for it though.

 

[synchro]

On solid wires, the extra twists put on the insulated portion outside the wirenut holds the wires together quite well. This helps to keep forces from being put on the connection inside the wirenet that might compromise it. But twists on stranded don't seem to hold together as tightly as those on solid wire. I'm wondering if adding a tie wrap might help in certain cases when stranded is being used?

 

[ptonsparky]

I've seen plenty of burnt wire connections over the years but not enough to warrant changing my ways. Most were where one wire ended up twisted around another straight one. Obvious operator error. (DIYers)

 

[FionaZuppa]

Twist or not, is an installer preference. With some recent resi work, I did come across 4-5 wire #14 twists that were very nicely done. But I don't see that too often.

Side note:
Wago 2773 is the flat version of their 773. Flats sometimes fit better when stuffed in a small box.
They have 6 pages worth of splicing connectors

Wire/Splicing Connectors | WAGO USA

www.wago.com

 

[Besoeker3]

Bring back soldering!

We don't solder or wire nuts. We use crimp joints with numbered ferrules.

 

[Little Bill]

We don't solder or wire nuts. We use crimp joints with numbered ferrules.

That is control panel wiring. It looks nice but is not relevant to the discussion of using wirenuts, which is typically done in junction or device boxes.

 

[Besoeker3]

That is control panel wiring. It looks nice but is not relevant to the discussion of using wirenuts, which is typically done in junction or device boxes.

Yes but my point is that it doesn't need wire nuts. Even with very simple control circuits or junction boxes.

 

[Little Bill]

Yes but my point is that it doesn't need wire nuts. Even with very simple control circuits or junction boxes.

Still not relevant as to HOW to use wirenuts!
Apples-Oranges

 

[Besoeker3]

Still not relevant as to HOW to use wirenuts!
Apples-Oranges

Fairy 'nuff. The point was why it doesn't need wire nuts. I was first introduced to wire nuts we did use them but that when I was in the middle ages. Scruits we called them. Have not since them since. Possible others may have but my field was industrial but there are none in our residence.

 

[kwired]

Still not relevant as to HOW to use wirenuts!
Apples-Oranges

From my experiences European made equipment often has splice/junction boxes with some sort of set screw terminal vs twist on connections. Places intended to make field connections almost always have set screw terminal of some kind, whether it is incoming power or a control lead.

 

[kwired]

I've seen plenty of burnt wire connections over the years but not enough to warrant changing my ways. Most were where one wire ended up twisted around another straight one. Obvious operator error. (DIYers)

Problem amateurs or not so seasoned pros make when not pre twisting is not getting conductor ends even or even too many conductors for the connector.

If you have stranded leads mixed with solid leads generally best to have the stranded leads slightly longer than the solid leads before twisting the connector on.

Next thing they fail to do is pull on each conductor after twisting to assure they are secure in the connector. This really is not a bad idea with smaller conductors in a set screw termination either. Some finger safe contact blocks and such are not always easy to tell if conductor was inserted properly before tightening, a simple tug helps give some confirmation that it is at least in the connector.

 

[ramsy]

From my experiences European made equipment often has splice/junction boxes with some sort of set screw terminal vs twist on connections. Places intended to make field connections almost always have set screw terminal of some kind, whether it is incoming power or a control lead.

Sounds like an idiot proof design sorely needed.

120v devices are available w/ pressure plate terminals listed for any 2 wires per screw, but regardless of reducing wirenuts not subject to 300.13(B), they remain obscure since triple the price of 15-Amp stab-ins.