Control Panel Door Harness ?

[milmat1]

Got a link?


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I have never seen these, Thanks !!
Welding studs on isnt a good solution for me. They would also leave visible marks on the front (outside)of door.

It would be great if someone made a piece that went under the lock nut on the push buttons etc they extended out in a way that you could attach zip ties.
Maybe 3D print them ???.

 

[kwired]

I have never seen these, Thanks !!
Welding studs on isnt a good solution for me. They would also leave visible marks on the front (outside)of door.

It would be great if someone made a piece that went under the lock nut on the push buttons etc they extended out in a way that you could attach zip ties.
Maybe 3D print them ???.

Isn't that what was linked to in post 20 does?

 

[paulengr]

Ok so what is wrong with something on the other side of the door?

A small round head machine screw on the outside is hardly noticeable and doesn’t detract in any way. You could also drill and tap and grind it off and clean up with touch up painting, which is no less distortion than a stud welder so no difference there. On a stainless door obviously it’s not so appealing.

No matter what adhesive you use, you need to recognize that the coefficient of expansion does not match the metal. Tape, epoxy, whatever…it is going to fail. 3 weeks, 3 months, 3 years doesn’t matter. If you want permanent it needs to be screwed, bolted, riveted, whatever as long as it’s not a glue. The big advantage of sticky backs is that they are fast. If you place them in locations with as little mechanical stress as possible and put them every 4 inches, they will last years. If the wiring puts stress on it or moves, forget it.

 

[ChukGleason]

How about this company? Various products, that epoxy mount where they need to go, so it's a strong bond.
Here's just the mounts:

Adhesive-Bonded Mounts: Design Flexibility & Reduce Cost

Click Bond’s adhesive-bonded mounts offer enhanced design flexibility for routing of aerospace systems and protective blankets in OEM and retrofit applications.

www.clickbond.com

Seems to solve the drill-thru problem, voiding certain cabinet ratings.

 

[LarryFine]

I have used contact cement successfully on various surfaces. The key is allowing drying time.

 

[mtnelect]

In the Traffic Signal Control Cabinets, everything is secured by drill and tap ... no exception ! ...

Also, with the drill and tap ... we used brass screws then chisel them off flush on the other side.

 

[Shaneyj]

How about this company? Various products, that epoxy mount where they need to go, so it's a strong bond.
Here's just the mounts:

Adhesive-Bonded Mounts: Design Flexibility & Reduce Cost

Click Bond’s adhesive-bonded mounts offer enhanced design flexibility for routing of aerospace systems and protective blankets in OEM and retrofit applications.

www.clickbond.com

Seems to solve the drill-thru problem, voiding certain cabinet ratings.

I’ve used this. Top quality but $$$


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[cpickett]

We bought a stud welder a few years back, what a game changer. I suppose if you get really close and squint you might see a small bubble in the paint, but otherwise it doesn't show on the outside. We use it to mount panduit and cable ties on doors, mount lights on the tops, just about anything. It does take a little time but makes a big difference in the end. We had tried just about every adhesive solution available and they never lasted very long.

 

[S'mise]

I used to use zip ties with hole and mount to pushbutton with 8-32 screw.

Side note:
Tell your panel builders not to use too many ty-wraps (less is more) and cut them flush so you don't end up cutting the knuckles of the poor slob that has to work on it.

 

[kwired]

When you have several switches or other components mounted on the door like the picture in OP those components sort of hold your wire harness in place. Though you may need other mounting methods if you have to cross a longer path that has no components to act as anchors.

 

[alexfox1986]

When you have several switches or other components mounted on the door like the picture in OP those components sort of hold your wire harness in place. Though you may need other mounting methods if you have to cross a longer path that has no components to act as anchors.

That's a good point. When you have multiple components mounted on a door or panel, they can act as anchors and help hold the wire harness in place. However, if you have to cross a longer distance where there are no components to anchor the harness, you may need to use other mounting methods such as cable ties, clamps, or conduit to secure the wires and prevent them from sagging or becoming loose. It's important to ensure that the wire harness is properly secured to prevent it from being damaged or causing a safety hazard.

 

[djmsek]

" Since we do not want to drill through the door,"
Neither did we, at my last panel building job,............ but 6/32 black button heads through the door do little to ruin the aesthetics and if you have a large bundle of wires transitioning from the door to the inside you really need the double screw panduit cable tie holder. A little touch up paint if you don't like the small button heads on you door, you only need 1 of them if your door is all control wiring, if you have thermocouples or other signal coming off the door you will have two spiral wraps entering the cabinet, still only 4 screw heads on the door 6/32