My employer sent me on a service call to a restaraunt to work on some old t12 fixtures that were in the kitchen area. He sent me with enough Zilotek led linear t8 tubes to do all the light fixtures. These are a "plug-and-play" led tub that say they'll operate off of a magnetic ballast or an electronic ballast that is an instant start (-IS) ballast.
He also sent me with 3 of these ballast to have "just in case". The first three fixtures I put the new plug and play Zilotek's in lit up initially, but then (I'm assuming) when the ballast got hot they turned off, after the ballast cooled down a few minutes they would light back up again, cycling on and off every few minutes.
So then I changed out the ballast to the new ballast that I had, tested them out and they seemed to work fine after that! I still had more fixtures to work on, but no more ballast so I didn't want to keep going until I got more ballasts (or learned whether I had different options!).
Since then I was researching it online and saw a couple of lighting companies that promote bypassing the magnetic ballast and direct wiring their tube to the 120v available at the fixture (each company had a different technique for doing this). The Zilotek tubes that I had didn't say anything about doing this in the directions and I couldn't find anything online about it either?
It seems odd (and maybe wasteful?) to have to change out the ballast to get one of these tubes to work, also seems like a possible point of failure somewhere in the future? I would love to be able to bypass the ballast if possible! Anyone have experience with this scenario ?
Thanks for advice!
Sky
He also sent me with 3 of these ballast to have "just in case". The first three fixtures I put the new plug and play Zilotek's in lit up initially, but then (I'm assuming) when the ballast got hot they turned off, after the ballast cooled down a few minutes they would light back up again, cycling on and off every few minutes.
So then I changed out the ballast to the new ballast that I had, tested them out and they seemed to work fine after that! I still had more fixtures to work on, but no more ballast so I didn't want to keep going until I got more ballasts (or learned whether I had different options!).
Since then I was researching it online and saw a couple of lighting companies that promote bypassing the magnetic ballast and direct wiring their tube to the 120v available at the fixture (each company had a different technique for doing this). The Zilotek tubes that I had didn't say anything about doing this in the directions and I couldn't find anything online about it either?
It seems odd (and maybe wasteful?) to have to change out the ballast to get one of these tubes to work, also seems like a possible point of failure somewhere in the future? I would love to be able to bypass the ballast if possible! Anyone have experience with this scenario ?
Thanks for advice!
Sky