Critique my diagram.
- Thread starter Chamuit
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muckusmc
Senior Member
- Location
- Roebling, NJ
Why use a contactor for the fans? If they can share a single circuit (i.e., 120v and <20a), the micro's, usually rated at 16a, can handle the current. After all, the micro carries the exhaust-fan's current during system trip in your drawing.
Because I can charge more - LOL - Plus I usually price the job unseen and I price the contactor just in case it's needed. I don't usually know what fans they are putting in (used or new) or what voltages they are going to be. Our micro's are rated 22A.
Notice that the horn/strobe is connected between the two blowers; the current required is miniscule. A gas-valve and its reset box would be connected across the intake fan (or its contactor) along with the appliance/receptacle contactor(s).
Sorry, but I'm not so sure about the HS working that way, I understand what your saying but I would want a clean neutral for the HS.
About the sensors mentioned: when they install systems here, the Ansul head has two cables, one for manual pulls, and the other under tension. There are lead links in the cable above the grease-catchers.
The sensor I am talking about is electric (http://www.vulcanco.com/calstat.html) not the fusible links.
Because I can charge more - LOL - Plus I usually price the job unseen and I price the contactor just in case it's needed. I don't usually know what fans they are putting in (used or new) or what voltages they are going to be. Our micro's are rated 22A.
Notice that the horn/strobe is connected between the two blowers; the current required is miniscule. A gas-valve and its reset box would be connected across the intake fan (or its contactor) along with the appliance/receptacle contactor(s).
Sorry, but I'm not so sure about the HS working that way, I understand what your saying but I would want a clean neutral for the HS.
About the sensors mentioned: when they install systems here, the Ansul head has two cables, one for manual pulls, and the other under tension. There are lead links in the cable above the grease-catchers.
The sensor I am talking about is electric (http://www.vulcanco.com/calstat.html) not the fusible links.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Not in my experience. I don't use small control relays, but contactors such as Square D's 8910DPA13V02 (120v). I tried to find data on coil current, but couldn't.dmanda24 said:
The horn/strobe the fire guys leave for me says the max current is 150 ma. I'd have to connect a horn/strobe and a contactor coil in series and measure the voltages.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
What?????! :grin: Hey, I was out installing contactors today. Gimme a break.dmanda24 said:
Actually, we did a supression system today, and I used two of those contactors in parallel for appliances. However, the second micro was available, so I didn't have to 'cheat.'
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Just to add: I wired the coils in parallel, not the contacts.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Hood lights? Appliances or receptacles?dmanda24 said:
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
In that case, you need a contactor.dmanda24 said:
Unless you're willing to leave the exhaust running 24/7.
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