cutting holes in Plaster with thick mess??

Status
Not open for further replies.
I just looked at a few recps that had been cut in by another contractor. Looks like he used a ROTO zip with the bit adjusted shallow enough to not cut into the mesh. Then they cut the mesh with dykes or snips. I'm not a fan of the dust from the grinder but the ROTO zip dust hood looks like it might work. I picked up a REMGRIT blade to see if that will cut everything at once. I will let you all know how things work out!
 
I would seriously consider a core bit
http://www.boschtools.com/accessories/accessories-detail.htm?H=188786&G=61529
I have the rotozip setup that celtic posted. It's nice, but it just didn't cut easily for me on job recently. Although I was going through almost 2" of plaster with wire sandwiched between and wood lath at the back. The wood burned and the mesh threw sparks and tried to track the bit off course leaving a somewhat jagged hole.

How big a hole do you need and how much slop or fudge factor is there?
 
If you decide to use the rotozip, make sure to get plaster bits, not drywall bits. 2 different creatures, and the drywall ones are worthless on plaster.
 
If the plaster has any concrete in it for get the rotozip! It will just heat up, and fail to cut after the first hole...

Diamond blade on grinder or skill-saw will be the fastest - but will dust the whole site - and thick enough not to be able to see what you are doing quick! Not to mention breathe...

I would suggest a diamond or carbide grit hole or dry core saw at a moderate speed - nice round hole - much less dust. You can hold a vaccum to it... You'll get much more use from the diamonds though..... You'll only have to buy one....

I got a diamond one for 4" reccessed cans and its great!
 
If I may make a suggestion for an alternate method:

How about using Wiremold surface device boxes? Then you'd only need to drill 3/4" or so round holes and fish the appropriate cable into the back KO and mount with a couple of blues'n'screws.
 
Funny you mentioned that Larry. The school decided to fast track the job so I told them it would be quicker to install wire mold and not fish all the walls. So now it has turned into a wiremold job. Thanks for all the replies. I do wish someone would invent a tool for this job with many types of bits for various materials. Dust collection is a must.

Cheers and A Happy Profitable New Years to all.
 
I did a convent that had about 120 holes i tried a roto zip i tried hole saw and saw saw you may not believe me but the best way was using a screw driver and pliers mark you outlet box score it with a razor knife and tap your screw driver and pliers around outline and then across to pop plaster out to expose mesh then cut mesh out it was the fastest way i found and you had more control. Let me know if you think it was faster.
 
Really the fastest way is a claw hammer, via a laborer.... You mark holes someone else bashes them out. And if you have a GC behind you to do the bashing and pass all the patching to he might be happier that you use that method = more rocker/plaster work and coordination to clean it all up, site protection etc..... More money in his pocket. Easy money for you.
 
shelton said:
I did a convent that had about 120 holes i tried a roto zip i tried hole saw and saw saw you may not believe me but the best way was using a screw driver and pliers mark you outlet box score it with a razor knife and tap your screw driver and pliers around outline and then across to pop plaster out to expose mesh then cut mesh out it was the fastest way i found and you had more control. Let me know if you think it was faster.
Click to expand...
I did this same thing using a helper and a shop vac to install ceiling fans in some offices and it worked great. Sometimes technology and fancy tools can't beat a hammer and a good helper.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top