Dimmer 0-10v

[mstrlucky74]

If you have a 0-10v dimmer being wired to 0-10v ballast whatwiring would you use from dimmer to fixture? Jobs allows bx/mc cable. Couldn’t use600v mc cable could you? 120v comes into the switch but I'm think you have to have 24v wires from switch to 0-10v dimming ballast. Thanks.

 

[MAC702]

...Couldn’t use600v mc cable could you?...

Unless I'm misunderstanding the question, I don't see why not.

Could use low-voltage wires in a 3/8 flex conduit, too, maybe. We run CAT5e, etc, in that, when needed.

 

[Electric-Light]

If you have a 0-10v dimmer being wired to 0-10v ballast whatwiring would you use from dimmer to fixture? Jobs allows bx/mc cable. Couldn’t use600v mc cable could you? 120v comes into the switch but I'm think you have to have 24v wires from switch to 0-10v dimming ballast. Thanks.

Preferably not run together. Search the internet for Class 2 class 1 reclassification. There's an abundance of information.

 

[hbiss]

http://www.afcweb.com/mc-metal-clad-cables/mc-luminary-type-mc-pcs/mc-luminary/

-Hal

 

[brantmacga]

Dimmer 0-10v

http://www.afcweb.com/mc-metal-clad-cables/mc-luminary-type-mc-pcs/mc-luminary/

-Hal

This is what we and everyone else I know use when MC is allowed.


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[mstrlucky74]

Thanks all. So my question is....a 12/3 600v mc cable[ not the one with control wires] would not work/Be allowed to wire the dimmer to the 0-10v ballast? Ty

 

[Jason Spray]

Thanks all. So my question is....a 12/3 600v mc cable[ not the one with control wires] would not work/Be allowed to wire the dimmer to the 0-10v ballast? Ty

If you already have the Power for the fixture taken care of, and you are just needing to take care of the 0-10v wiring, you CAN use MC cable, it's just overkill. You could use 2/18 cable.

 

[Strathead]

This is what we and everyone else I know use when MC is allowed.


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It really isn't as simple as that. The power supply for a dimmer 0-10 is the LED driver. Generally they are Class II and by code this is written on the drivers. Once you install the luminary MC, you have to reclassify the wiring and Class I. That means deleting the reference to class II on all the drivers and treating the entire run as Class I. All wiring is then required to be in conduit. Which is fine, just understand that you can't do a mix of some wire in the same conduit as power wiring and some wiring free air. Either one in isolation is acceptable.

 

[mstrlucky74]

It really isn't as simple as that. The power supply for a dimmer 0-10 is the LED driver. Generally they are Class II and by code this is written on the drivers. Once you install the luminary MC, you have to reclassify the wiring and Class I. That means deleting the reference to class II on all the drivers and treating the entire run as Class I. All wiring is then required to be in conduit. Which is fine, just understand that you can't do a mix of some wire in the same conduit as power wiring and some wiring free air. Either one in isolation is acceptable.

Says 0-10v dimming ballast. Suppose that similar to driver.

 

[Strathead]

Says 0-10v dimming ballast. Suppose that similar to driver.

Yes same difference. That makes me wonder, can fluorescent and LED reside on the same dimmer.

 

[GoldDigger]

Yes same difference. That makes me wonder, can fluorescent and LED reside on the same dimmer.

Given that there is a functional specification for 0-10V dimming and it allows multiple drivers to be connected to one dimmer, I see no reason that a 0-10V fluorescent and a 0-10V led could not be controlled by the same 0-10V control.

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[Electric-Light]

Yes same difference. That makes me wonder, can fluorescent and LED reside on the same dimmer.

Can? yes. Should? you have to try it out.
Control voltage vs light output curve is not standardized across different ballasts.
5v can be 50% output on one and 25% or anything on another.

 

[Fulthrotl]

Can? yes. Should? you have to try it out.
Control voltage vs light output curve is not standardized across different ballasts.
5v can be 50% output on one and 25% or anything on another.

+1 on all of that.

in california lighting, there is a problem with getting that stuff to work correctly.

in daylit areas, you need to be able to shed two thirds of the power consumed
when it's replaced by sunlight. that may, or may not be two thirds of the control
voltage.

in my experience, if they match up on profiles, don't say nuthin to nobody. it's
a fluke, and if they find out any lighting controls work together, they will change
them.

these are both 0-10 volt fixtures subject to daylighting in the same area of the
building, in the same daylighting zone. anybody want to guess how close they
are on light profiles? you will also note that the clearstory windows on
both sides of the structure make the entire floor into a skylit area. one single
skylit area. one 14,000 sq. ft. lighting zone.

 

[jeremysterling]

It really isn't as simple as that. The power supply for a dimmer 0-10 is the LED driver. Generally they are Class II and by code this is written on the drivers. Once you install the luminary MC, you have to reclassify the wiring and Class I. That means deleting the reference to class II on all the drivers and treating the entire run as Class I. All wiring is then required to be in conduit. Which is fine, just understand that you can't do a mix of some wire in the same conduit as power wiring and some wiring free air. Either one in isolation is acceptable.

I used the "luminary MC" cable for the first time last month. Your post has confused me because I believed the MC-PCS luminary MC to be "as simple as that."

From Southwire's catalog:

"Southwire MC-PCS Duo Cable meets the NEC and UL listing requirements for combining power/lighting circuits and Class 2 or Class 3 signal or control circuits in the same cable."

Explain again why I must reclassify anything.

 

[GoldDigger]

I used the "luminary MC" cable for the first time last month. Your post has confused me because I believed the MC-PCS luminary MC to be "as simple as that."

From Southwire's catalog:

"Southwire MC-PCS Duo Cable meets the NEC and UL listing requirements for combining power/lighting circuits and Class 2 or Class 3 signal or control circuits in the same cable."

Explain again why I must reclassify anything.

The separate inner sheath is what allows you to keep the Class 2 designation unchanged (although not all inspectors accept it right off the bat.) If it were loose wires in conduit you would have to add innerduct or reclassify the control wires as Class 1 and associated with the power wires.

 

[Fulthrotl]

The separate inner sheath is what allows you to keep the Class 2 designation unchanged (although not all inspectors accept it right off the bat.) If it were loose wires in conduit you would have to add innerduct or reclassify the control wires as Class 1 and associated with the power wires.

something to consider, in involved lighting plans, the circuit
feeding the fixtures, and the 0-10 wire controlling the actions
of those fixtures MAY NOT BE THE SAME FIXTURE.

with a digital control bus, lights can be grouped at will, and
there is no problem with this. lutron eco bus comes to mind.

otherwise, how the 0-10 volt wire is ran determines the grouping.

additionally, if the installation is a hybrid.... 0-10 volt, and
digital bus controlled fixtures, it is an extremely good idea
to use different cable jacket color, assuming you are using
low voltage wires external to the MC cable. i am partial to external
control wires, as a personal preference. color coded, which usually
isn't done. painful to watch. almost always in a hard lid with
limited access, and limited recovery time. usually discovered at
the end of the job.

tie one 0-10 dimming control wire to a digital bus, and you are
dead in the water till you find it. wherever it is, it will NOT be in
a convenient place. trust me.

 

[mstrlucky74]

If you already have the Power for the fixture taken care of, and you are just needing to take care of the 0-10v wiring, you CAN use MC cable, it's just overkill. You could use 2/18 cable.

Yes but it has to be protected in the wall so I guess you can use flex with that cable inside of it

 

[Strathead]

Can? yes. Should? you have to try it out.
Control voltage vs light output curve is not standardized across different ballasts.
5v can be 50% output on one and 25% or anything on another.

That is what I was thinking, probably the same issue when connecting two different fixture types as well, or more accurately different driver or ballast types.

 

[Strathead]

I used the "luminary MC" cable for the first time last month. Your post has confused me because I believed the MC-PCS luminary MC to be "as simple as that."

From Southwire's catalog:

"Southwire MC-PCS Duo Cable meets the NEC and UL listing requirements for combining power/lighting circuits and Class 2 or Class 3 signal or control circuits in the same cable."

Explain again why I must reclassify anything.

Explain to me how you connect separate the 0-10v from the line voltage wires on the junction box end. I am not an expert by any stretch. I actually wasn't aware Southwire made this statement, however I just read article 725.136 and I don't see where this is allowed, under any circumstance with power and lighting wiring and it is very limited with Class 1 wiring. I am respectfully waiting to be informed in regards to the code, not some claim by Southwire.

 

[Strathead]

The separate inner sheath is what allows you to keep the Class 2 designation unchanged (although not all inspectors accept it right off the bat.) If it were loose wires in conduit you would have to add innerduct or reclassify the control wires as Class 1 and associated with the power wires.

I read 725 and the inner sheath seems to allow sharing with Class one wiring but not with power and lighting circuits. Also, it seems to me that any terminations that are done anywhere except the equipment would be a violation without a separation barrier.