Diy at it’s best

Status
Not open for further replies.
IIRC, back in the '50s there was a sedan (Caddy?) where the oil filter was behind an access plate inside the left wheel well (remove the tire to access). And there were multiple Chevy's in the '70s where changing the #8 plug required a socket with 3 or 4 universal joints and extensions to turn.

I'll never own a car where you can't see the driveway around the engine.
 
zbang said:
IIRC, back in the '50s there was a sedan (Caddy?) where the oil filter was behind an access plate inside the left wheel well (remove the tire to access). And there were multiple Chevy's in the '70s where changing the #8 plug required a socket with 3 or 4 universal joints and extensions to turn.

I'll never own a car where you can't see the driveway around the engine.
Click to expand...
Have you tried changing the plugs on a Subaru? Minor PITA. More than one 1/4" extensions required since you can't get just one in there due to the clearances. Then, you need a small 1/4" drive torque wrench to reassemble. You can't risk doing it by feel and stripping the threads.
 
I just caught the first post (wild) ... I was reminded
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7596.jpg
    IMG_7596.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 41
  • IMG_7597.jpg
    IMG_7597.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 41
zbang said:
IIRC, back in the '50s there was a sedan (Caddy?) where the oil filter was behind an access plate inside the left wheel well (remove the tire to access). And there were multiple Chevy's in the '70s where changing the #8 plug required a socket with 3 or 4 universal joints and extensions to turn.

I'll never own a car where you can't see the driveway around the engine.
Click to expand...
I have a 2016 Nissan Rogue, there is an access plate behind front right wheel to access oil filter. Can be done without removing wheel, helps a little more to turn the wheels to the right.

First time I tried to change oil on a 2002 Blazer, I couldn't find the oil filter. Had to use Google to help find it. It wasn't even on the engine block IIRC, was piped to an assembly and behind an access cover near the front of the vehicle. Guess it was easy to access but never thought to look there either.
 
My 1967 Ford Econoline had its oil pressure sensor go bad. The sensor was easy to get to but I had to buy a $30 17 sided socket to change it.
 
MyCleveland said:
How did this turn into stereotyping EE's....
Click to expand...
Well, are they wrong? LMAO I worked as an electrician to pay for my elec eng degree so I too make fun of engineers from time to time because 9 times out of 10, they can't wire a can light. Don't get me wrong though, we still love them like all our other children. We can't play favorites. LMAO

Whoever mentioned that engineers should work on their own designs....PREACH IT. None more than the automotive ones. My Lord. Let's mount the battery under the feet of our newborn child's car seat in the rear seat and let's put the oil filter so when it cracks the seal, it drips all over every thang! Some of these folks need locked in a portable toilet and set on fire. :p
 
grich said:
You shouldn't have to remove the intake manifold to change a spark plug. :mad:

My SIL's high-mileage van had a misfire code on one of the cylinders in the back. What should have been an easy troubleshooting job was going to take up $1K in labor just to get to the back three sparkplugs/coils. She junked the vehicle, which should have had another 100K miles left in her.
Click to expand...
Friend of mine had a 69 mustang with a factory installed 428 cobra jet engine. He had to take motor mounts loose and jack the engine up just to get to the spark plugs
 
grich said:
You shouldn't have to remove the intake manifold to change a spark plug. :mad:
Click to expand...
How about Ford's genius design on the 6.0L diesels? If someone would have told you in 1980, that in or around 2003, Ford would put a diesel truck platform on the market that required the cab and front clip to be hoisted above the chassis to replace a head gasket....what would you have said?
 
Whoever designed the 5.9L Cummins diesel in my my truck must have worked on them, the water pump is easier to replace then the thermostat, remove tension on the serpentine belt remove two bolts & it's out, don't even have to remove the fan, to access the T-stat you have to get the A/C compressor out of the way, I did omit any part of the coolant/antifreeze removal. Plus that 12 valve engine is about the most reliable diesel out there, there is a joke about Dodge trucks, w/ Cummins engines, half a million mile engine in a 50 thousand mile truck, don't agree with it but is still funny. There is a market taking a donor Dodge and dropping the engine in a Ford, making it a "Fummins", works where someone has a 6L Ford diesel boat anchor. :D
 
norcal said:
Whoever designed the 5.9L Cummins diesel in my my truck must have worked on them, the water pump is easier to replace then the thermostat, remove tension on the serpentine belt remove two bolts & it's out, don't even have to remove the fan, to access the T-stat you have to get the A/C compressor out of the way, I did omit any part of the coolant/antifreeze removal. Plus that 12 valve engine is about the most reliable diesel out there, there is a joke about Dodge trucks, w/ Cummins engines, half a million mile engine in a 50 thousand mile truck, don't agree with it but is still funny. There is a market taking a donor Dodge and dropping the engine in a Ford, making it a "Fummins", works where someone has a 6L Ford diesel boat anchor. :D
Click to expand...
Nailed it. Water pump on 2nd gen dodges was the best design ever. If you can keep the dodge parts from falling off, the Cummins will keep on ticking most of the time. On my third Dodge 1-ton since 1999. Still not a better option in my mind, unless you don't like the wandering steering. :D

Are you also "Norcal" on CompetitionDiesel.com? That username looked familiar to me when you started talking diesel. If so, you didn't stay with us long.

NORCAL
  • Last Activity: 11-28-2016 04:44 PM
  • Join Date: 07-01-2016
 
qcroanoke said:
Friend of mine had a 69 mustang with a factory installed 428 cobra jet engine. He had to take motor mounts loose and jack the engine up just to get to the spark plugs
Click to expand...
I had to do that to change the starter on my '95 Buick Regal.
 
4x4dually said:
Nailed it. Water pump on 2nd gen dodges was the best design ever. If you can keep the dodge parts from falling off, the Cummins will keep on ticking most of the time. On my third Dodge 1-ton since 1999. Still not a better option in my mind, unless you don't like the wandering steering. :D

Are you also "Norcal" on CompetitionDiesel.com? That username looked familiar to me when you started talking diesel. If so, you didn't stay with us long.

NORCAL
  • Last Activity: 11-28-2016 04:44 PM
  • Join Date: 07-01-2016
Click to expand...
No, "Norcal" is not a registered trademark. (y) It's not a really a great name, just started using it because could not think of anything else when registering on the first website as I blundered along after getting online for the first time, in the late 90's.
 
norcal said:
Whoever designed the 5.9L Cummins diesel in my my truck must have worked on them, the water pump is easier to replace then the thermostat, remove tension on the serpentine belt remove two bolts & it's out, don't even have to remove the fan, to access the T-stat you have to get the A/C compressor out of the way, I did omit any part of the coolant/antifreeze removal. Plus that 12 valve engine is about the most reliable diesel out there, there is a joke about Dodge trucks, w/ Cummins engines, half a million mile engine in a 50 thousand mile truck, don't agree with it but is still funny. There is a market taking a donor Dodge and dropping the engine in a Ford, making it a "Fummins", works where someone has a 6L Ford diesel boat anchor. :D
Click to expand...
I've had good luck with it as well. Have one with ~330k miles, water pump was recently replaced, and that sort of the most major thing done to it so far. Replaced belt a few times, one time idler pulley bearing went out and the resulting ripped belt took out the crankshaft position sensor with it, and waste gate solenoid valve crapped out once, but that is about it.

Rest of truck, you can kind of expect things like brakes, ball joints, u joints, etc. to need replaced at times on pretty much any vehicle. Rusting out of rear wheel house areas is worst thing about this truck so far.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top