Do we need ground fault protection or not???

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Just spoke with the manufacturer again and the said ground fault breakers are fine but not GFCI's.

I still think they have no clue that it is the same thing, just a higher milliamp trip.

Going to try a different ground fault controller and see if it still trips.

Then go back to them and see what they have to say

Thanks for all the input.
 
are the big rivets in the pic connected to power???
 
Just spoke with the manufacturer again and the said ground fault breakers are fine but not GFCI's.

I still think they have no clue that it is the same thing, just a higher milliamp trip.

Going to try a different ground fault controller and see if it still trips.

Then go back to them and see what they have to say

Thanks for all the input.

Just ask them for the NRTL listing agency and the file number. Then go look it up. If they can't supply this, that says it all.
 
... I still think they have no clue that it is the same thing, just a higher milliamp trip. ...
Well, yes and no to them being the same thing. When there is some sort of switch mode power supply / inverter involved, the common mode noise they create is what often gives people headaches with regard to GFCIs, because they are so much more sensitive.

But the thing is, if an AHJ says that you need a GCI because it's outdoors and wet, then a 30mA or 100mA GF device is NOT going to be acceptable. Anything above the 4-6mA level of a GFCI is called "EQUIPMENT Ground Fault Protection (GFPE) and is specifically NOT allowed when protection of PEOPLE is involved.

Just ask them for the NRTL listing agency and the file number. Then go look it up. If they can't supply this, that says it all.
:thumbsup:
 
how many wires actually connect to the mat?
what exactly feeds the plugs?
 
So we finally have the problem resolved i hope.
We separated out each set of mats on there own EPD breaker. Each set of mats has a SO cord coming out of it for a total of two connections.
Then we used the controller to pull in a set of contractors that the heat mats ran through. (two runs of 3 mats, they run at 208v single phase) Each mat is plugged into each other.
This seems to have "fixed" the problem except for one mat that is not getting hot. Roofers have to take it off as it is a membrane roof and is glued down.
I think the one mat was in the process of shorting itself out and that's why or breaker kept tripping.
The only other thing i can think is that when they were on the same breaker it was getting a false reading, or the ground leakage is low enough now that the load is slit up.

Thanks for everything, it was a big help.
 

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