Does this micro need dedicated circuit

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crtemp

crtemp

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Wa state
I have a microwave that is built into a cabinet in a kitchen. It is not fixed in the hole but is defiantly not sitting on the counter. It draws 13 amps. Now it is fed from the SABC. Is this okay or does it need it's own circuit. I can't find a clear answer in the code.
 
Cord & Plug Connected ?
If so, IMO, it falls under 210.23(A)(1) and would not need to be on it's own circuit UNLESS the manufacturer install instructions call for a dedicated circuit.
 
crtemp said:
I have a microwave that is built into a cabinet in a kitchen. It is not fixed in the hole but is defiantly not sitting on the counter. It draws 13 amps. Now it is fed from the SABC. Is this okay or does it need it's own circuit. I can't find a clear answer in the code.
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What do the manufacturer's instructions say to do? If the instructions or any sticker, etc. say to only install on a dedicated circuit that is what you must do if you want to be compliant with the NEC.
 
Personally I always put microwaves on their own dedicated circuit. As you said, it draws 13A so whatever else it was sharing with would have to have a very minimal load in order to not trip the breaker. Especially since you said it is not on the counter, I would say it is not one of the 2 required SABCs required to serve counter-top surfaces.
 
ASG said:
Personally I always put microwaves on their own dedicated circuit. As you said, it draws 13A so whatever else it was sharing with would have to have a very minimal load in order to not trip the breaker. Especially since you said it is not on the counter, I would say it is not one of the 2 required SABCs required to serve counter-top surfaces.
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The previous electrician wired this kitchen remodel. He has the fridge, micro, and now the toaster and coffee pot. The owner wanted to take him to small claims court for not running a circuit to the micro but if it's not required I guess there is nothing he can do. The other guy never got a permit either. That being said the owner didn't want me to put in another circuit if he couldn't get the money out of the other contractor. It was gonna be pretty spendy. Nightmare run through the garage, outside, in the crawl and outside again!
 
This was interesting to me too. He also has another toaster that he rarely uses but it is also plugged into the same circuit in question. When he had the fridge, micro, both toasters, and his coffee maker going I had an amp reading of 31.5 amps on my fluke tester. It held at this amperage for at least 2 minutes without tripping. I finally gave up on it tripping and stopped testing it. I think he had a challenger panel and breakers (the type that have color coded handles (blue is 15 amp, red is 20 amp etc)). I'm just curious was this a bad breaker or did I not give it enough time to trip? Do the circuit breakers detect heat or actual amperage to make them trip?
 
crtemp said:
This was interesting to me too. He also has another toaster that he rarely uses but it is also plugged into the same circuit in question. When he had the fridge, micro, both toasters, and his coffee maker going I had an amp reading of 31.5 amps on my fluke tester. It held at this amperage for at least 2 minutes without tripping. I finally gave up on it tripping and stopped testing it. I think he had a challenger panel and breakers (the type that have color coded handles (blue is 15 amp, red is 20 amp etc)). I'm just curious was this a bad breaker or did I not give it enough time to trip? Do the circuit breakers detect heat or actual amperage to make them trip?
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The breakers detect heat that comes from the amperage. The instant trip (magnetic) part of the breaker works at a much higher, short circuit range, current value.

A listed breaker working properly will carry ~130% of nominal value indefinitely.
If you have a 20A breaker, carrying 32A for two minutes is not unexpected. I would expect a 15A breaker to trip sooner under those conditions, but maybe still last 2 minutes.
 
crtemp said:
This was interesting to me too. He also has another toaster that he rarely uses but it is also plugged into the same circuit in question. When he had the fridge, micro, both toasters, and his coffee maker going I had an amp reading of 31.5 amps on my fluke tester. It held at this amperage for at least 2 minutes without tripping. I finally gave up on it tripping and stopped testing it. I think he had a challenger panel and breakers (the type that have color coded handles (blue is 15 amp, red is 20 amp etc)). I'm just curious was this a bad breaker or did I not give it enough time to trip? Do the circuit breakers detect heat or actual amperage to make them trip?
Click to expand...
They detect heat. They also can hold at more amps than the color of the handle indicates for more than a little while and not be outside of their specs.
 
crtemp said:
I have a microwave that is built into a cabinet in a kitchen. It is not fixed in the hole but is defiantly not sitting on the counter. It draws 13 amps. Now it is fed from the SABC. Is this okay or does it need it's own circuit. I can't find a clear answer in the code.
Click to expand...

(5) Receptacle Outlet Location. Receptacle outlets shall
be located on or above, but not more than 500 mm (20 in.)
above, the countertop.
 
crtemp said:
The previous electrician wired this kitchen remodel. He has the fridge, micro, and now the toaster and coffee pot. The owner wanted to take him to small claims court for not running a circuit to the micro but if it's not required I guess there is nothing he can do. The other guy never got a permit either. That being said the owner didn't want me to put in another circuit if he couldn't get the money out of the other contractor. It was gonna be pretty spendy. Nightmare run through the garage, outside, in the crawl and outside again!
Click to expand...

Even though I agree the design is not good. However, if the kitchen counter has a minimum of (2) SABC then he (the other EC) has done his job.

It sounds like a cheesy "free loader" customer. If the other EC were to install the new circuit the customer was going to pay for it at that time. But now he/she is thinking of getting the circuit if the other EC will pay for it.

OP watch out for this customer.
 
crtemp said:
All on 1 circuit. The other SABC has only 2 plugs on it that have nothing plugged into them
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How big is this counter that he can't re-plug some of this equipment (such as the coffee maker) into one of these other 2 plugs?
 
jxofaltrds said:
(5) Receptacle Outlet Location. Receptacle outlets shall
be located on or above, but not more than 500 mm (20 in.)
above, the countertop.
Click to expand...

crtemp said:
I have a microwave that is built into a cabinet in a kitchen. It is not fixed in the hole but is defiantly not sitting on the counter. It draws 13 amps. Now it is fed from the SABC. Is this okay or does it need it's own circuit. I can't find a clear answer in the code.
Click to expand...

How come nobody agrees with this?

if its not on within the counter area then it needs its own circuit
 
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