Drill Bits

[jmellc]

If you do a lot of drilling wood studs in tight corners, try the Irwin Speedbor Max bits. I have a 3 set of 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch, bought on special 2 sets for $15 last year.

These are very sharp and cut easily in new or old wood. 4 inches long. On a battery drill, they will fit nearly any tight corner. The shaft is a bit fragile and will easily bend if you hit nails, so try to avoid them.

 

[hurk27]

If you do a lot of drilling wood studs in tight corners, try the Irwin Speedbor Max bits. I have a 3 set of 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch, bought on special 2 sets for $15 last year.

These are very sharp and cut easily in new or old wood. 4 inches long. On a battery drill, they will fit nearly any tight corner. The shaft is a bit fragile and will easily bend if you hit nails, so try to avoid them.

I have always used flat bits for my cordless, my DeWalt 970 has enough torque to drill with an auger bit but it does eat up the battery and causes the drill to run hot, and can cause a lot of wear on a cordless, I found that Irwin came out with a tri-speed bore that is a flat bit with a twist and has three cutting edges, these bore through wood like butter and don't load down the drill as much as a auger, my DeWalt 970 can drill with them in 3rd gear with no problems, and using the slip clutch at almost the highest setting will provide some protection if you hit something like a nail, but like a flat bit they are also subject to easily being damaged from nails, cordless drills are not designed to be drilling out a whole house for a rough-in, but are great for fast service calls to make a single run when adding a circuit, or other things that you don't want to drag out extension cords.

Also I only buy flat bits that have 1/4" hex shafts, as I also have 1/4" quick clip bit extensions 3", 6", 12" and a 18" made by Irwin, also a flex shaft and right angle for tight places which with stubby Irwin Tri-speed bores will fit in to some very tight places., even getting through a tripled cribbed window studs where you have the next 16" on center stud that is only a few inches away from the cribbing stud, I drill through this stud then leaving the bit in place just add a quick clip extension to it, and drill as far as it will go then add another extension till I get through, but you got to hope you don't hit a nail on that one as there plenty of nails in them.

 

[PetrosA]

For stubby spade bits, Milwaukee wins the fight hands down. The Irwin stubbies are ok, but are also about 1" longer than the Milwaukees. I use them in my impact driver to drill up into an existing wall in old houses (where you can remove a floor board) and it fits inside the floor. I also have a whole set of extensions (here Irwin takes the prize - no one else's even come close to their quality) like Wayne has which allow me to drill any set of studs in any framing scenario level, and straight. For new construction, I actually prefer using forstner bits where possible to get cleaner holes, but unfortunately I haven't been able to find any that have 1/4" hex shafts for use with the Irwin extensions. Any manufacturers listening to this? Hint... hint...

 

[RLyons]

The majority of people I work with use the Irwin speedbore and they all have the same problem that the shanks shearing off. I've settled with the bosch daredevil bits with the main reason being you can sharpen them couple times to increase life.

I still haven't found a extension I like. Irwins quick release bent easily and the release gets gummed up and sticks. I currently am using the Milwaukee and has held up pretty good but it to has a quick release that gets gummed up but a little deep creep although messy solves the problem.

 

[PetrosA]

The majority of people I work with use the Irwin speedbore and they all have the same problem that the shanks shearing off. I've settled with the bosch daredevil bits with the main reason being you can sharpen them couple times to increase life.

I still haven't found a extension I like. Irwins quick release bent easily and the release gets gummed up and sticks. I currently am using the Milwaukee and has held up pretty good but it to has a quick release that gets gummed up but a little deep creep although messy solves the problem.

Irwin got bought by Lenox, and now Lenox has moved to a larger quick release shank (3/8"?) on the wood utility bits they brand (also tri-flute) but I haven't found an adapter to 1/4" for them so you probably have to use it in a chuck. I haven't had any issues with the Irwin extensions bending or gumming up, but maybe I work in easier conditions.

 

[jmellc]

I keep a few spade bits and I like them for smaller holes, like a 1/4 hole for bell wire. I use all sizes of them for drywall also, for toggle bolts. I have various extensions scattered around here & there; am in the process of getting them back together. Some have the allen set screws, some have the twist quick release collar. I also have various 16, 18 and 20 some inch bits, spiral and spade. I also had (until this week) a right angle attachment that allowed me to use my short augers with my electric drill. Gears stripped and it is now useless. Anyone know a good one out there? This one was a no name brand that someone gave me.

I haven't tried the particular spade bits you guys mentioned. I will look for them next time I need some. I have found that spade bits usually dull pretty quickly and for sure will snap teeth if they hit a nail.

I have found several times I had to shop for extensions myself. Send a helper and he would always come back with the wrong type, sometimes with a HD clerk insisting to him that "yes, this extension and this bit do fit". Take it back and show the clerk that "no they don't".

 

[Little Bill]

Irwin got bought by Lenox, and now Lenox has moved to a larger quick release shank (3/8"?) on the wood utility bits they brand (also tri-flute) but I haven't found an adapter to 1/4" for them so you probably have to use it in a chuck. I haven't had any issues with the Irwin extensions bending or gumming up, but maybe I work in easier conditions.

I just lost a nearly new bit this week drilling down inside the wall. When the bit went through the bottom plate and just started to penetrate the sub floor, the drill stalled a little. Usually just reversing the drill and pulling the bit back a little will free it up. When I did it this time and started to drill again, something didn't feel right. So I pulled the flex extension out of the wall and saw the bit was gone!:blink: The quick connect "quickly" disconnected from the bit!:rant:
When I was under the house I looked to see if the bit had even started through and I could just see the screw point from the bit sticking through.

This was a Greenlee Diversa Bit which also has a quick disconnect. I also have some Irwin extensions and sometimes they stick and are hard to release. But I have never had one release the bit like the Greenlee did.

 

[frankft2000]

I just lost a nearly new bit this week drilling down inside the wall. When the bit went through the bottom plate and just started to penetrate the sub floor, the drill stalled a little. Usually just reversing the drill and pulling the bit back a little will free it up. When I did it this time and started to drill again, something didn't feel right. So I pulled the flex extension out of the wall and saw the bit was gone!:blink: The quick connect "quickly" disconnected from the bit!:rant:
When I was under the house I looked to see if the bit had even started through and I could just see the screw point from the bit sticking through.

This was a Greenlee Diversa Bit which also has a quick disconnect. I also have some Irwin extensions and sometimes they stick and are hard to release. But I have never had one release the bit like the Greenlee did.

Had the same thing happen to me with Greenlee. I lost a stubby auger bit.

 

[hurk27]

I have had the Irwin release but it was because I was using a 3/8th" bit which is barely larger then the quick release collar which caught the side of the hole and pushed up the quick release collar, luckily I was able to get the extension back on the end of the bit and drilled it the rest of the way through which it just fell into the basement which is where I retrieved it.

I have lost several Greenlee Diversa Bits in walls because the set screws came loose, at $30 to $40 a pop that can get expensive.

I used to take my old worn out 1" Greenlee 6' Diversa Bits and use extensions on them to bore under sidewalks and driveways, they make an excellent way to bore under concrete, with the hole in the end I use the small kellems grip that comes with the set to pull 14/2 or 12/2 UF back under the drive or sidewalk, I got fairly good at hitting my hole on the other side, if not I just got out my Underground locater and located it, which it would even tell me how deep it was.

 

[jmellc]

I just lost a nearly new bit this week drilling down inside the wall. When the bit went through the bottom plate and just started to penetrate the sub floor, the drill stalled a little. Usually just reversing the drill and pulling the bit back a little will free it up. When I did it this time and started to drill again, something didn't feel right. So I pulled the flex extension out of the wall and saw the bit was gone!:blink: The quick connect "quickly" disconnected from the bit!:rant:
When I was under the house I looked to see if the bit had even started through and I could just see the screw point from the bit sticking through.

This was a Greenlee Diversa Bit which also has a quick disconnect. I also have some Irwin extensions and sometimes they stick and are hard to release. But I have never had one release the bit like the Greenlee did.

I've lost several bits and once a hole saw arbor from the chuck loosening up while drilling; don't think I've had this particular irritation. Makes you want to kick a hole in the wall and get your bit doesn't it?

 

[delectric123]

I took 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 quality twist drill bits and welded similar size rods to them. Made them just as long as my tool bag would allow.(18") Though the fluting is hardened, the shank is mild steel and can easily be welded. I often have to drill holes through steel roofing or siding, or drill a pilot hole for a hole saw through a wall. They don't stop for anything, not even a 1/2" thick steel I-Beam. And they'll never fall out of their "extensions".

 

[John120/240]

I took 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 quality twist drill bits and welded similar size rods to them. Made them just as long as my tool bag would allow.(18") Though the fluting is hardened, the shank is mild steel and can easily be welded. I often have to drill holes through steel roofing or siding, or drill a pilot hole for a hole saw through a wall. They don't stop for anything, not even a 1/2" thick steel I-Beam. And they'll never fall out of their "extensions".

These are available...aircraft drill bits.