Drill for hole saw

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Dansos

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90% of the work we do is in residential single family homes. Full rewires where we try to keep damage to a minimum. We use a ton of 4 1/8” hole saws to cut in old work octagons for smoke alarms, ceilings light etc. we have tried everything from my Milwaukee corded Super Hole Hawg. (Heavy, way too much torque, tired of lifting it over my head) we have tried M18 drills (burn them out quick) and even tried using an M18 oscillator to make the holes (nightmare). Do you guys have any suggestions or experience with cutting in holes in ceilings? And what kind of drills do you use? I was think of buying an M18 FUEL Super Hole Hawg but I get conflicting info about this drill having a clutch (100% needed) and don’t wanna spend $350 for a drill that I won’t be happy with. Also, thought about just a cheap corded 1/2” Keyed still but still worry about not having a clutch.
 
Buy a cheap, lightweight cordless that can accept a 3/8 inch arbor. You may want a short quick disconnect in the chuck. I just use Lennox bits and feather them in and out so the sheetrock or plaster dust doesn't choke the teeth. You really don't need any torque to cut through half inch to an inch of ceiling.

Eta: if you are burning up drills, you're putting too much pressure on the bits, or not clean the sheetrock dust out from the internals. you can probably easily fabricate a shield of sorts to keep most of the dust out of the drill
 
JFletcher said:
Buy a cheap, lightweight cordless that can accept a 3/8 inch arbor. You may want a short quick disconnect in the chuck. I just use Lennox bits and feather them in and out so the sheetrock or plaster dust doesn't choke the teeth. You really don't need any torque to cut through half inch to an inch of ceiling.

Eta: if you are burning up drills, you're putting too much pressure on the bits, or not clean the sheetrock dust out from the internals. you can probably easily fabricate a shield of sorts to keep most of the dust out of the drill
Click to expand...

I kind of agree that maybe putting too much pressure on bit when drilling. M18 drill shouldn't have too much issue with drilling such a hole unless you are drilling that large of hole all day long. It is a compromise of less weight but a little slower drilling ability vs. a heavier drill and fighting with cords. My old Milwaukee angle drill or even the 1/2 inch magnum hole shooter will drill such holes all day, but both are heavier and does need a power cord.
 
JFletcher said:
Buy a cheap, lightweight cordless that can accept a 3/8 inch arbor. You may want a short quick disconnect in the chuck. I just use Lennox bits and feather them in and out so the sheetrock or plaster dust doesn't choke the teeth. You really don't need any torque to cut through half inch to an inch of ceiling.
Click to expand...

I kind of wonder what type of ceilings the OP is having trouble with. You are right and I have never needed more than a cordless drill for sheetrock.

I did an old house in Atlanta where there were multi layers of wall and ceiling cover materials to about two inches deep. Some plaster and lath and some of it was sheet rock but I was burning up saw blades even cutting in receptacle junction boxes. Some of that stuff was probably 150 years old and was very hard to cut.
 
Two suggestions:

1. Use an 18" extension between the drill and the hole saw. The extra length lets you hold the drill lower, and despite what you might think, makes it easier to keep the hole saw perpendicular to the ceiling and less likely to hop out of the hole and damage the ceiling.

2. Get a clear plastic under-pot dish from the gardening department to use as a dust catcher. Make an X slit in the center with a razor knife to friction-fit below the hole saw. After making the hole, tilt it into a trash can and bump the trigger to drop the drywall slug.
 
LarryFine said:
Two suggestions:

1. Use an 18" extension between the drill and the hole saw. The extra length lets you hold the drill lower, and despite what you might think, makes it easier to keep the hole saw perpendicular to the ceiling and less likely to hop out of the hole and damage the ceiling.

2. Get a clear plastic under-pot dish from the gardening department to use as a dust catcher. Make an X slit in the center with a razor knife to friction-fit below the hole saw. After making the hole, tilt it into a trash can and bump the trigger to drop the drywall slug.
Click to expand...

Agreed and slower clean often.
 
LarryFine said:
Get a clear plastic under-pot dish from the gardening department to use as a dust catcher.
Click to expand...

I use these with a 1/2" chuck DeWalt cordless hammer drill (hammer off) and have no problems. They come with a dust catcher which works well.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Quick-Cutter-Adjustable-Hole-Saw-53731/203828012

You do have to be careful to hold it perpendicular or the hole won't cut clean. I have used these on lath ceilings and they will wear out much quicker but still do the job.
 
Maybe the OPis dealing with rock plaster (not horse hair) it is common around here with houses built in the 40's & 50's.That stuff eats up blades like nobody's business. But it does really damage the drill.
I used to get an old basketball cut it in half drill a small hole in the center of it and place it between the drill and hole saw. It cup against the ceiling nice and catch most of the dust.
 
Dansos said:
90% of the work we do is in residential single family homes. Full rewires where we try to keep damage to a minimum. We use a ton of 4 1/8” hole saws to cut in old work octagons for smoke alarms, ceilings light etc. we have tried everything from my Milwaukee corded Super Hole Hawg. (Heavy, way too much torque, tired of lifting it over my head) we have tried M18 drills (burn them out quick) and even tried using an M18 oscillator to make the holes (nightmare). Do you guys have any suggestions or experience with cutting in holes in ceilings? And what kind of drills do you use? I was think of buying an M18 FUEL Super Hole Hawg but I get conflicting info about this drill having a clutch (100% needed) and don’t wanna spend $350 for a drill that I won’t be happy with. Also, thought about just a cheap corded 1/2” Keyed still but still worry about not having a clutch.
Click to expand...

ok, you didn't specify if it's sheetrock, plaster, or stucco lid....
i've seen stucco lids in my part of the country. looks like
acoustic popcorn sprayed over drywall, until you try to cut it.
then the resemblance changes to pool gunite.

remgrit for the bit.
if you use a 1/4" drill for the pilot, and then put a piece of 1/4"
drill rod in the remgrit, into the pre drilled hole, it will cut with
a lot less wobble. smaller kerf, less material removed.

dust catcher.
i've got a couple i like, acrylic with a spring loaded
plunger. put a 24" plumbers extension on the shaft, and you can
drill from the floor on 8' lids.

shop vac.
festool. legitimate hepa rating. RRP certification. quiet, awesome.

drill.
i've got two festool 18 volt drills.
now, milwualkee has the 18 volt fuel, and the festools are nice,
but they are $500 each, and the milwualkee is amost as good,
and a lot less.

i'd use the fuel 18.
 
I saw a 4" round cut in box at the NECA seattle show that had a built in hole saw, on the bottom, good for a couple of cuts I was told.
I use a 4 1/8" hole saw in reverse to cut thru lath and plaster
 
Use two hole saws. One just for plaster, and the other one stays nice and sharp for the lath.

M18 cordless super hawg is great. It doesn't have a mechanical clutch but it has an electric one that senses overload.
 
Well that just shot the per opening price all to hell! Trunkslamers and homeowners not going to pay for safety confirmations.
 
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