Drill size and types used for various tasks.

Status
Not open for further replies.
LarryFine

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
mdshunk said:
So.... you do much old work? :grin: I would have to think not! That's a very impractical statement, when applied to old work. Your heart's in the right place though, brother, but it just ain't gonna happen for a variety of reasons.
Click to expand...
No, but drilling uphill from the outside accomplishes the same thing, and it is a practice I have my guys follow.
 
B

bjp_ne_elec

Senior Member
Location
Southern NH
mdshunk said:
So.... you do much old work? :grin: I would have to think not! That's a very impractical statement, when applied to old work. Your heart's in the right place though, brother, but it just ain't gonna happen for a variety of reasons.
Click to expand...

Mdshunk - not following why you say it ain't gonna happen?? Are you referring to the angling of the hole being drilled?

In the PVC/LB scenario - that's got to be challenging keeping the inside in PVC. Most situations I run in to, it would be pretty challanging to get the PVC routed neatly, as it would need a "kick" here and a "kick" there - all in a short distance. When I say "kick", I'm referring to conduit slang. You'd have a 90 degree bend and then "kick" it to get the offset you need.

When running SEU, I also use that Sill Plate Cover (not sure of the official name)- it makes the area around where the cable goes in to the house much neater looking.
 
iwire

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
stickboy1375 said:
Umm, if you seal the outside I don't think it really matters what angle you are drilling at...:roll:
Click to expand...

I do.

I will always drill from the outside to the inside in an up angle. Seals breakdown, gravity is pretty reliable. ;)
 
bikeindy

bikeindy

Senior Member
Location
Indianapolis IN
bjp_ne_elec said:
What do you guys use for drill/hole saws - size and type - to do these specific jobs:

1. 200A SE cable from Meter to Main Panel (with various kinds of outside finish - vinyl siding, wood, etc.) - run out of bottom of meter socket, and then 90'd through sill area

2. 200A SE cable from Meter to Main Panel (with various kinds of outside finish - vinyl siding, wood, etc.) - run out of back of Meter Socket

3. Normal everyday NM (Romex) holes

What other auger bits/hole saws/self-feed wood bits ( http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/browse.jhtml?catId=IrwinCat100182) do you have on hand, and what are there uses. Debating if I go out and buy a whole set of hole saws, or just individual. I have them for the 4" Recessed, as I had a remodel with 4" cans - but don't have any outside the standard 7/8", 1-1/8" = maybe a 2"+ - but I can't remember what I used that for. Then, like to hear feedback on the various manufactures of Hole Saws. Is it worth paying the long dollar for the carbide tipped models?

Thanks

Dave
Click to expand...


To get back to the OP, Dave I don't have a kitthat i purchased I have found that kits have hole saw sizes I never use, now they may have many uses for guys who tend to do more varied work than I do. What I have done is to buy the sizes I need for different tasks and I buy them to a pretty exacting measure. I then bought a box for all my different cutting attachments and organized it for myself. So if I need a hole Saw or a saws-all blade or a drillbit or extention bit it is all there and when something is wore out it comes out of the box and is replaced that day. A 2" hole saw makes a great hole for the outside dia. of an 1 1/4" PVC LB.
 
Last edited:
quogueelectric

quogueelectric

Senior Member
Location
new york
mdshunk said:
So.... you do much old work? :grin: I would have to think not! That's a very impractical statement, when applied to old work. Your heart's in the right place though, brother, but it just ain't gonna happen for a variety of reasons.
Click to expand...
Yes I do much old work but for some reason I was picturing a newly framed unfinished house as I was drilling those holes in my head. I totally agree with not wrecking the customers siding and you are correct to always drill in from the finished side at an upward angle. The point I was trying to make was to angle the penetration for water intrusion many guys are just too busy or forget to seal the holes and water can sure do a lot of damage once it finds its way into a house. Does anyone have a bandaid?
 
iwire

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
stickboy1375 said:
but i'll keep waiting for the phone to ring... ;)
Click to expand...

LOL :D

So let me ask this, is there any good reason not to drill up to prevent water running into the building?

Of course it gets tricky to do this with roof penetrations. :D
 
mdshunk

mdshunk

Senior Member
Location
Right here.
stickboy1375 said:
I've yet to see duct seal break down, but i'll keep waiting for the phone to ring... ;)
Click to expand...
Oh boy! I need to take some pictures then! It seems that duct seal has about a 20-25 year life span. After that, it cracks and is very dry. I have one particular inspector who insists on duct seal on top of weatherproof SE cable connectors (where the cable enters the top of the meter can). I agree that additional sealant is needed on a gland-type SE cable connector, so I silicone it. Once the silicone is set up, I put some duct seal over top to pacify the inspector. I've been out on many, many trouble calls where old dried out duct seal was permitting water into the meter can or the panel.
 
J

JohnConnolly

Senior Member
Location
Phoenix AZ
First, drill bits. One of the best things to come along in all my years is the greenlee holesaw kit. One arbor with easily intechangable 1/2" to 1 1/2" bits.

660.htm




Now.....WTH? You guys run exposed SE cable? It cant be NM SE can it? That's all we have in AZ.
 
stickboy1375

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
iwire said:
LOL :D

So let me ask this, is there any good reason not to drill up to prevent water running into the building?

Of course it gets tricky to do this with roof penetrations. :D
Click to expand...

I was just joking with you, it is indeed a good idea...
 
stickboy1375

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
mdshunk said:
Oh boy! I need to take some pictures then! It seems that duct seal has about a 20-25 year life span. After that, it cracks and is very dry. I have one particular inspector who insists on duct seal on top of weatherproof SE cable connectors (where the cable enters the top of the meter can). I agree that additional sealant is needed on a gland-type SE cable connector, so I silicone it. Once the silicone is set up, I put some duct seal over top to pacify the inspector. I've been out on many, many trouble calls where old dried out duct seal was permitting water into the meter can or the panel.
Click to expand...


Hmm, I think I can live with that.... I use duct seal on my SE connectors also, IMO last alot longer than any silicone product...
 
A

AmpedInPortland

Member
Location
Vancouver, WA
JohnConnolly said:
First, drill bits. One of the best things to come along in all my years is the greenlee holesaw kit. One arbor with easily intechangable 1/2" to 1 1/2" bits.

660.htm




Now.....WTH? You guys run exposed SE cable? It cant be NM SE can it? That's all we have in AZ.
Click to expand...

I'm with this guy. Let see if I understand this correctly. In New England, you guys run non-metallic sheathed cable on the outside of building, on an unfused circuit? I've seen work from like the 50's in Portland where people did that, but not anything recent. We don't even do that when the circuit has over-current protection. We run all our exposed service/feeder wires in conduit in the NW. We can only use SE and similar cable, where it's protected in a wall/attic/crawl/etc.

Sidenote: I always assumed we used conduit per the NEC. If that's not the required, I would guess we have local statutes that prohibit this. Imma have to look that up.
 
Last edited:
iwire

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
quogueelectric said:
On my east coast it has to be protected in pipe below 8 ft strictly for physical damage
Click to expand...

Just where is that?

I have been in Pierre's area of NY and saw plenty of SE in use.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top