Drilling wood I beams

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nickelec

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I just picked up a small side gig of drilling approximately 400, 5½ diameter holes in the is sections of the engineered joists . Im thinking a bunch of right angle hole hogs, and hole saws? Anyone have any tips or ideas to throw at me things to look for or keep in mind . I'm open to different ideas.

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hole saw and hole hawg or right angle.
I'd prefer something with a clutch when it locks up, but way to many for a battery drill.

What is this for?
 
AKElectrician said:
I hope your talking about a plumbers bit and not a actual hole saw, cause I would hate to do that with a hole saw, it would take a month of sundays.
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Biggest self-feed plumbers bit I know of is 4-5/8"

But, yeah, a hole saw is a pain at these large diameters.

OP, will these be in a flat position, and movable to a drill press, or are they already installed somewhere?

If you get stuck with a hole saw, have a good plan all ready to go for quickly punching the core out of the bit. Experiment with how often you need to raise the bit out of the work to clear the chips from the teeth. This might go more quickly with some small holes drilled in the circumference before you use the hole saw.

How round does the hole need to be? A 1-inch(ish) hole and a good blade on a reciprocating saw might do the trick, too.
 
A hole saw with a self ejector will do fine. If you wobble the cut a bit the plug has less chance to get stuck in the hole saw.

After a few you will get the feel. Just be careful and have the drill backed up by the side handle and don't have your knuckles in the way.

Good luck.
 
If there is room, router and template or rotozip and template.

Choose bit size depending on if beam web is osb or plywood and what width the flange is if you need a long bit, 1/2" shaft if long bit needed. .
 
Sierrasparky said:
A hole saw with a self ejector will do fine. If you wobble the cut a bit the plug has less chance to get stuck in the hole saw.

After a few you will get the feel. Just be careful and have the drill backed up by the side handle and don't have your knuckles in the way.

Good luck.
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+2. This is what I'd do as well, or...

I take it the beams are I-joists (with an OSB-type center sandwiched between two 2x4's) and already installed, and the holes need to be aligned. If so, you can drill 90% thru, remove the drill, then pop the plug out of the wood rather than digging it from your drill bit. Wear safety glasses. Make sure there is nothing on the other side of the beam, like FA wiring or the plumber's PEX, before you drill. You can use a laser or string line to get all of the holes straight and a cheater block of scrap wood or template to get them all level.

For 400 holes I'd budget for 2 holesaw bits and a few starting bits. You might want to put a dab of blue loktite on the center bit. I've found using high speed and light pressure works the best for avoiding binds. Use the smallest, lightest ladder you can; moving a 300lb rated 8' orange ladder around all day when you could have used a 6' 225lb green one is a waste of time and energy.
 
JFletcher said:
+2. This is what I'd do as well, or...

I take it the beams are I-joists (with an OSB-type center sandwiched between two 2x4's) and already installed, and the holes need to be aligned. If so, you can drill 90% thru, remove the drill, then pop the plug out of the wood rather than digging it from your drill bit. Wear safety glasses. Make sure there is nothing on the other side of the beam, like FA wiring or the plumber's PEX, before you drill. You can use a laser or string line to get all of the holes straight and a cheater block of scrap wood or template to get them all level.

For 400 holes I'd budget for 2 holesaw bits and a few starting bits. You might want to put a dab of blue loktite on the center bit. I've found using high speed and light pressure works the best for avoiding binds. Use the smallest, lightest ladder you can; moving a 300lb rated 8' orange ladder around all day when you could have used a 6' 225lb green one is a waste of time and energy.
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That's a good point about the ladder , and that's pretty generous you think only 2 bits lol i budget for like 20

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nickelec said:
That's a good point about the ladder , and that's pretty generous you think only 2 bits lol i budget for like 20

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Well, maybe 3 hole saw bits, but clean, dry wood with no knots, lightly drilled and sawdust cleaned from the teeth often really extends bit life. Not sure who has the best bits now, tho Milwaukee or Lennox are widely available and both pretty good. As for what drill to use, any heavy duty corded drill will work fine with joists 16" OC - no need to buy a Hole Hawg unless you really want one.
 
junkhound said:
If there is room, router and template or rotozip and template.

Choose bit size depending on if beam web is osb or plywood and what width the flange is if you need a long bit, 1/2" shaft if long bit needed. .
Click to expand...

+1.
small plunge router with a collet/template.
half inch shank.

assuming these joists are 16" or 24" on center...
you should have room for something like this.
the difference in speed would be significant.

now, if it's something where you need pitch, as in
plumbing runs or something.... stabila makes a
bore laser that is awesome for this. you make the
first hole, put the device in it, and set the bubble
level, and it projects a dot at the center of the run.
 
Sierrasparky said:
A hole saw with a self ejector will do fine. If you wobble the cut a bit ...
Click to expand...

You do realize we are talking about a 5-1/2" hole saw through what is probably at least 3/8" OSB?

I'd love to see the self-ejector that can do that, but I stand ready to be corrected. On the plus side, good luck trying NOT to wobble it.
 
JFletcher said:
Well, maybe 3 hole saw bits, but clean, dry wood with no knots, lightly drilled and sawdust cleaned from the teeth often really extends bit life. Not sure who has the best bits now, tho Milwaukee or Lennox are widely available and both pretty good. As for what drill to use, any heavy duty corded drill will work fine with joists 16" OC - no need to buy a Hole Hawg unless you really want one.
Click to expand...

I doubt if a hole hog would be good for work like this.

I would budget for a new drill. I would purchase at home depot. They have a good exchange policy.

I would use a small 18V battery drill for pilot holes. Easier to hold and get thing lined up.

I don't know how many bits/hole saws would be needed but I wouldn't mind haveing a few extra as they can always be returned it not used.
 
growler said:
I doubt if a hole hog would be good for work like this.

I would budget for a new drill. I would purchase at home depot. They have a good exchange policy.

I would use a small 18V battery drill for pilot holes. Easier to hold and get thing lined up.

I don't know how many bits/hole saws would be needed but I wouldn't mind haveing a few extra as they can always be returned it not used.
Click to expand...
My plan was 8 men 8 drilss 4 hogs and 4 heavy duty battery powered Hiltis, and 15-20 bits

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nickelec said:
Looking to finish in 2/3 days...
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Either that's a non sequitur or you didn't see what I was saying. Since you already plan to have the pilot hole drilled with a separate drill, you don't need the cutting edge and flutes on your hole saw pilot. If it's a smooth steel rod, it works more smoothly in your predrilled pilot hole and has less chance of wallowing it out.
 
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