Drilling wood I beams

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MAC702 said:
This has the added benefit of not needing to use a pilot drill for the hole saw. Use a smooth steel rod instead.
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MAC702 said:
Either that's a non sequitur or you didn't see what I was saying. Since you already plan to have the pilot hole drilled with a separate drill, you don't need the cutting edge and flutes on your hole saw pilot. If it's a smooth steel rod, it works more smoothly in your predrilled pilot hole and has less chance of wallowing it out.
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I didn't catch your meaning right off either. Once I read the next post it makes perfect sense.

A good steel rod wouldn't be as easy to break either.

There are lots of neat tricks out there is a person is willing to try them.
 
MAC702 said:
You do realize we are talking about a 5-1/2" hole saw through what is probably at least 3/8" OSB?

I'd love to see the self-ejector that can do that, but I stand ready to be corrected. On the plus side, good luck trying NOT to wobble it.
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The self ejector is part of the arbor.
however I think I like the router thing better.


What is this for?
 
growler said:
I didn't catch your meaning right off either. Once I read the next post it makes perfect sense.

A good steel rod wouldn't be as easy to break either.

There are lots of neat tricks out there is a person is willing to try them.
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quarter inch drill rod. works awesome.
you drill a lot faster.

i'm still sayin.... plunge router.

lets say you are putting in sprinkie lines, near the end
of the beam. you have a template you clamp in place.
it'll take less time to router that hole than to clamp the
template in place. less than a minute to plunge, and
cut out completely. it'll take longer to move the template.

a scissor lift would be awesome. get up there, and just rock.
 
nickelec said:
I just picked up a small side gig of drilling approximately 400, 5½ diameter holes in the is sections of the engineered joists . Im thinking a bunch of right angle hole hogs, and hole saws? Anyone have any tips or ideas to throw at me things to look for or keep in mind . I'm open to different ideas.

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Ignorant Brit strikes again........
Wooden I-beams?
As in I-section like steel I-beams?
 
5½ hole saws are harder to find then one would think, at least around here . It seems that 5&6 are obviously the more common sizes but both HD and Lowe's .. Nada!! Supply houses 1 or 2 here and there.

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nickelec said:
Ac ducts

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Are they doing parallel runs through the joists because they can't go under? That's a LOT of tin to bend! That's 399 x 16" or 6,384 inches or 532 feet of duct, not counting headers and discharge risers.
 
have a pattern...

have a pattern...

Find a piece of scrap 1/2 or 3/4 plywood and cut it to fit inside the web.

drill your 5" hole at the correct location in the "pattern"

screw the pattern to the joist and use it for a location template.

a pilot bit is not needed.

ALSO use a liberal supply of Johnson's paste wood-wax ( comes in round tins) as a lubricant


Another option is to use the "donut" from the previous cut and screw it to the next location as a guide template.

Another helpful hint.. Instead of throwing away dull holesaws,, use a 4" cut-off tool and "badger" some new cutting edges. (does not have to be pretty, "just rough")
 
nickelec said:
My plan was 8 men 8 drilss 4 hogs and 4 heavy duty battery powered Hiltis, and 15-20 bits

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2 guys, 2 drills, 2 days. One hole every 5 minutes, assuming you dont have floor obstructions and are ~12' AFF. The key to speed is drilling the joists 90% thru then using a mallet or the like to pop the slug out of the joist, like a factory pre-cut - no digging it out of the drill bit.

growler, I agree a Hole Hawg wouldnt be good, a higher speed lower torque drill would be better. and rethinking it, since 5.5" is an odd size, I'd buy more and return any extra than be left short. 6 bits should more than cover 400 holes.

eta: never tried a router but I think it would be too wide to cut a 5.5" hole in a 12" web - wouldnt the sides of the router hit the edges of the top and bottom 2x4' before reaching the apex of the turn/circle?
 
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junkhound said:
If there is room, router and template or rotozip and template.

Choose bit size depending on if beam web is osb or plywood and what width the flange is if you need a long bit, 1/2" shaft if long bit needed. .
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Oh yeah.:thumbsup:
 
5-1/2" hole in center of 12" beam leaves 3-1/4" out to edge. My 1/2" Milwauke router is smaller than that.

Assume typical 3" flange width.

Make 1/8" thick aluminum template (you can route an aluminum sheet to make template) that you screw to 2 quick release clamps that go on the outside of flange, thus need a 2-1/2" long bit, suggest 1/2" collet and 3/8" carbide cutter.

Snap a chalk line along bottom of beams, align your template with the chalk line.

Should be able to clamp on template, route hole, and move on to next beam within 2 min each.

Say 20 chalk lines at 5 min each

Say an hour to make template with clamps attached to template.

2 hours to sweep up chips

800 min plus 100 min plus hour plus 2 hrs = 2 day job plus travel. If you get a rhythm going and still young and limber, might be able to cut a hole every minute? (esp with a good moveable ladder) H

ow high are the beams anyway? If over 8 or ten feet, then longer time, maybe much longer?
 
PS: suggested 3/8" cutter diameter (on 1/2" shank) vs. a faster smaller 1/4" cutter as I have had 1/4" cutter break off on bits extended more than an inch or so.
 
junkhound said:
PS: suggested 3/8" cutter diameter (on 1/2" shank) vs. a faster smaller 1/4" cutter as I have had 1/4" cutter break off on bits extended more than an inch or so.
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Me too. That is quite irritating. I thought it was just me being too impatient.

I also wish for a roto masonry bit that can cut about 3" deep or so. I don't really have a good method for cutting a recessed outlet on existing outside solid masonry/concrete walls. Tried drills, chisels, Fein, diamond sawzall but am not completely happy with any of those combinations.
 
Theese are all great idae I finally saw the job yesterday the beans of 12in on Center so speed drills might not fit I don't think I have a choice but to use the right angle

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