Electric Gate vs Lightning

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or line to ground, neutral to ground, and line to neutral for 3 pc MOVs on one side, 2 on other (just 2 inputs to ground).....
if thats the case i would add an inline fuse (fast blow or the auto-reset type) so when MOV shorts the fuse will disconnect power thereby saving the MOV's for longevity purposes. remember though. MOV's degrade with every hit they take.
 
owner should buy both. why were they not installed before is the big Q. they are multi MOV with what looks like inline chokes. it looks like 4 MOV's with one self-resetting fuse.

or line to ground, neutral to ground, and line to neutral for 3 pc MOVs on one side, 2 on other (just 2 inputs to ground).....

if thats the case i would add an inline fuse (fast blow or the auto-reset type) so when MOV shorts the fuse will disconnect power thereby saving the MOV's for longevity purposes. remember though. MOV's degrade with every hit they take.

Where exactly is the re-setting fuse you are talking about on each of the boards?

Which of the suppressors are you talking about adding a fuse to, high V, low v, or both.

What size fuse(s) and where to buy an auto-reset type?
A link to one would be good!:)
 
in the pics it looks like one or more disc item is different than the others, could be a auto-fuse.
auto-fuse is something like this
http://www.bourns.com/data/global/pdfs/mfr.pdf and you can get these for like 40cents at Digikey.
easier to use on the 24vac side than line side, but you have to inline it prior to the MOV section.
or, get something you can easily inline on the 120v side like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102786
the fuse should be rated to handle the current required by the unit and then a tad more, etc. a short by a MOV should cause fuse to trip or blow, etc.
 
i have a fix and its ,less than $30

i have a fix and its ,less than $30

1876-010-2.jpg


Low voltage

1878-010-2.jpg


ive built sar units for nearly any kind of logic interface out there, almost all those hi priced off the shelf units are a crock of bunk, the movs in them as well as the surge ar you buy for your pc have a clamp voltage of 300~600v so do the eaton whole home sar units they have between 440-1kv clamping. i have not found them in a while but i used to order movs with clamp voltages of 130-165 from mouser.com and replace them generic movs in those things with them and it not only allowed me to triple the joule rating of those things but it reduced the peak values to a range that was more within the limits of the equipments design
 
1876-010-2.jpg


Low voltage

1878-010-2.jpg


ive built sar units for nearly any kind of logic interface out there, almost all those hi priced off the shelf units are a crock of bunk, the movs in them as well as the surge ar you buy for your pc have a clamp voltage of 300~600v so do the eaton whole home sar units they have between 440-1kv clamping. i have not found them in a while but i used to order movs with clamp voltages of 130-165 from mouser.com and replace them generic movs in those things with them and it not only allowed me to triple the joule rating of those things but it reduced the peak values to a range that was more within the limits of the equipments design
look at the 42v MOV i listed, it's just above 24vac and can take a hit, perhaps use two in parallel (which is what these boards look like they do).
 
Has OP ever said what in the electric gate system is getting ruined?

nope, but the presence of lightning strikes seems to indicate an over-voltage situation at the controller.
 
in the pics it looks like one or more disc item is different than the others, could be a auto-fuse.
auto-fuse is something like this
http://www.bourns.com/data/global/pdfs/mfr.pdf and you can get these for like 40cents at Digikey.
easier to use on the 24vac side than line side, but you have to inline it prior to the MOV section.
or, get something you can easily inline on the 120v side like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102786
the fuse should be rated to handle the current required by the unit and then a tad more, etc. a short by a MOV should cause fuse to trip or blow, etc.

I'm by no means any kind of electronic expert but I have replaced/repaired several circuit boards in both my previous and current job. I have probably seen those auto-reset fuses a million times and just assumed they were either a cap or MOV. Sure didn't picture them looking like that.

With that said, how do these type fuses work? How do they reset?
Do they have something like a melting alloy such as in a motor overload. When it heats up it opens and closes when it cools?

Learn something new everyday. Glad I "swallowed" my pride years ago and realized I don't know everything nor even where they keep it all!;)
 
I'm by no means any kind of electronic expert but I have replaced/repaired several circuit boards in both my previous and current job. I have probably seen those auto-reset fuses a million times and just assumed they were either a cap or MOV. Sure didn't picture them looking like that.

With that said, how do these type fuses work? How do they reset?
Do they have something like a melting alloy such as in a motor overload. When it heats up it opens and closes when it cools?

Learn something new everyday. Glad I "swallowed" my pride years ago and realized I don't know everything nor even where they keep it all!;)

check out this PDF
 

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I noticed in the PDF that ambient temperature affects these fuses. With a low near 0 and high near 100 F, is there a recommended temp rating that should be considered when purchasing these?

temp is a factor......
 
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