Electric insta hot water heater Calc

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hbiss said:
A 3000 watt tea kettle?:jawdrop:Well, I suppose, since your mains are 220 over there.
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It's 230V and it plugs into a 13A socket/receptacle. It isn't specifically for tea. You can use it to boil water for anything.

hbiss said:
As for 9kW supplying a shower indefinitely, don't forget that it depends on the incoming water temperature and the temperature rise. I could see that happening if the incoming was 70 and you enjoy a 100 deg shower.
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A 100 deg shower would probably be fatal.
 
Besoeker said:
It's 230V and it plugs into a 13A socket/receptacle. It isn't specifically for tea. You can use it to boil water for anything.

A 100 deg shower would probably be fatal.
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100F shower is barely above average body temp should feel warm, but maybe not as warm as many would desire.
 
winnie said:
Say you want to bring 45F water up to 120F, and have 2 fixtures running at once for 3 gallons per minute. I get 31KW.

I'd like to see a hybrid water heater, one that runs gas when the flow is high enough and uses electric below. I like _long_ showers. To not be wasteful I like to turn the water flow down quite a ways during the middle soak. My first experience doing this with a gas tankless was...enervating...

-Jon
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Well, if the groundwater in your area reaches a low of 45 degrees Fahrenheit, and you wanted to run that flow right I guess you would need close to 36 KW. Here it would be rare that groundwater would be below about 57 degrees Fahrenheit, and I wouldn't want it much hotter than about 105 to 110, so I could easily get away with a 25 to 27 KW unit for the same flow rate. That would put my amperage around 120, possibly 100 to 110.

I personally could live with having to run washing machine and dishwasher at different times. Many shower heads now are low flow, 1.5 GPM maximum, so even turning it straight to hot water. you'd still have plenty Reserve.

The main difference between me and say customer who is getting his water from a stream in the Rockies is that I don't have to upgrade my service by going to a tankless water heater where he would. However, if they're willing to pay, I'll put it all in for them.
 
JFletcher said:
I personally could live with having to run washing machine and dishwasher at different times. Many shower heads now are low flow, 1.5 GPM maximum, so even turning it straight to hot water. you'd still have plenty Reserve.
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Most, possibly all, dishwashers and washing machines here and, possibly/probably there, are cold fill. You don't want to bake your breakfast eggs on to the plate before you even start the cycle.
 
Besoeker said:
Most, possibly all, dishwashers and washing machines here and, possibly/probably there, are cold fill. You don't want to bake your breakfast eggs on to the plate before you even start the cycle.
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Different strokes for different folks. Here in the colonies all residential dishwashers are connected only to the hot water supply line. But the supply temp might be as low as 120F for energy conservation. The dishwashers contain a heating element that can bring the circulating temperature up to 145F or optionally higher to sanitize properly. But that extra heat will be in the rinse cycle only.
Commercial units are another story and may even have a small rinse preheat tank to reduce cycle time. (The rinse heater then can work between cycles and during the wash instead of having to delay the rinse while the circulating water heats.)

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
GoldDigger said:
Different strokes for different folks. Here in the colonies all residential dishwashers are connected only to the hot water supply line. But the supply temp might be as low as 120F for energy conservation. The dishwashers contain a heating element that can bring the circulating temperature up to 145F or optionally higher to sanitize properly. But that extra heat will be in the rinse cycle only.
Commercial units are another story and may even have a small rinse preheat tank to reduce cycle time. (The rinse heater then can work between cycles and during the wash instead of having to delay the rinse while the circulating water heats.)

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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"Most people think that a washing machine will fill from both the hot and cold at the same time, fact is that no current machine that we know of does this, period."
From Hoover and Hotpoint.
 
Besoeker said:
Most, possibly all, dishwashers and washing machines here and, possibly/probably there, are cold fill. You don't want to bake your breakfast eggs on to the plate before you even start the cycle.
Click to expand...

Besoeker said:
"Most people think that a washing machine will fill from both the hot and cold at the same time, fact is that no current machine that we know of does this, period."
From Hoover and Hotpoint.
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But do they have a heater within for if you want warm or even hot water?

Seeing some US marketed models that are starting to do that, but traditionally has mostly been you have both hot and cold water connection to the washer, depending on selections you make when running it may only fill with cold water, may only fill with hot water, or if set to "warm" water will open both valves - actual temp was not monitored by older machines, some newer ones may monitor and adjust to reach a desired temp, or use an on board heater to reach desired temp.
 
kwired said:
But do they have a heater within for if you want warm or even hot water?
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Yes, of course. But you start with cold. For both dishwashers and washing machines. I'm told that some stains wash out better if you start with cold.
 
Besoeker said:
Yes, of course. But you start with cold. For both dishwashers and washing machines. I'm told that some stains wash out better if you start with cold.
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And US marketed washing machines have the option to select cold water wash temp.

Dishwashers as has been said usually only connect to the hot water line. Can't think of any situations with a dishwasher where cold water wash would be desired. The heaters within most dishwashers are only for boosting temp during rinse cycle to acquire higher temp for sanitation purposes - usually an option to not provide the extra heating on those also.
 
LarryFine said:
I'm in the process of wiring a residential tankless water heater that uses four 40-a breakers, so I'm adding a second 200a M/L panel (no neutral) complete with second exterior 200a main and 400/320a meter.

Sounds like you need to do the same thing (other than exterior main, depending).


Speaking of which, anyone know the smallest 200a M/L Eaton (Cutler-Hammer) type BR panel available?
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That wouldn't work here, one address / one meter, especially for residential.
 
Besoeker said:
"Most people think that a washing machine will fill from both the hot and cold at the same time, fact is that no current machine that we know of does this, period."
From Hoover and Hotpoint.
Click to expand...
Twenty year old machines pretty much universally turned both solenoid valves on at the same time for warm. This was pretty hit and miss as far as exact temperature was concerned, and you could do some adjusting of the temp by partially closing one of the shutoff valves.
It was not until the greater control flexibility offered by microprocessor control that mixing to a precise target temperature could be done by separately controlling the on time for hot and cold water valves. Among other things this allowed for compensation depending on the incoming temperature of both the hot and cold supplies.
 
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