Electromagnetic Field (EMF)

Status
Not open for further replies.

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
This is a story of what not to do and why....

I had installed 4 recessed cans by adding them to 2 existing cans in the kitchen. Sounds easy enough.... When I got home that evening I got a call from my customer who said the EMF's in her kitchen were above .6 milGauss (I think).:confused: My first question was a dumb one because when I asked how she knew this she said she had a Gauss meter. Of course, who doesn't. Born with a brain smaller than my mouth I barely knew what a gauss meter was.

Apparently after much conversation I learned that the reading was at .2 ( a tolerable level) but shot up to .6 when I added the 4 cans. As I unscrewed each bulb the EMF's would simultaneously drop. Unfortunately, I had no idea what causes EMF's. I did some research and found out there are basically three areas in the wiring that could lead to high levels of EMF. Of course, microwaves, etc have emf's but you have to get close to read them. We were reading the emf's at table height from the lights in the ceiling. I will state the reason I know.

1) If the neutral and ground come in contact after the load,
2) If two circuits enter a multiganged switch box and the neutrals are tied together (we all have done that at some point in our lives) and,
3) the neutral running separately from the load.

My Discovery
I quickly checked the cans I installed and the existing ones to make sure there was no connection between neutrals and ground. There weren't --so I ruled out #1.
There were two multiganged boxes in the kitchen with 3 way switches and some single poles. There was only one circuit feeding both multigang boxes in the kitchen. So- #2 was ruled out.
Then I noticed that the previous electrician (20 years earlier) had run a two wire cable between the 3 way switches as travelers. The 3 ways were feed from one box and switched from the other. The neutral was picked up in the second box from the other feed (same circuit). On a whim I disconnected the travelers and hook the switch as a single pole and the emf's dropped to zero. Since the neutral was traveling a different path (through the second feed cable) it created the emf's.

The easy fix since my customer never used the other 3 way was to keep it disconnected. I almost felt smart after that one.:smile:
 
I didn't know what a Gauss meter was either. Just googled, now I know. Speaking of Google I have been getting a redirect when i click on the results, I have to copy and paste the link to get what I want.... anyone else haveing this problem, or is it just me?
 
hockeyoligist2 said:
...Speaking of Google I have been getting a redirect when i click on the results, I have to copy and paste the link to get what I want.... anyone else haveing this problem, or is it just me?
No problem here. Getting direct links for results.
 
The simple truth to negating high EMF's in wiring is to simply run all circuitry with the current flowing both directions in the cable or raceway in turn canceling each other.

This is code mandatory for ferrous metallic raceways.

This does not necessarily mean the neutral needs to be present in the cable or raceway.

Roger
 
I thought every home had a Gauss meter, I run around my home and rerout the circuitry if the level is too high, NOT
 
Dennis,
Welcome to MH's forum. I am included in the two wire traveller hall of fame along with many others I perceive. There is a section that requires same circuit cancelling that does preclude 2-wire travellers. [300.3(B)] Same ckt. in cable. Happy New Year
 
hockeyoligist2 said:
Speaking of Google I have been getting a redirect when i click on the results, I have to copy and paste the link to get what I want.... anyone else haveing this problem, or is it just me?

I would check for EMF interference. ;)
 
Tori--
I don't recall if it was prohibited long ago-- I am too old to remember but it is now and still is being done I am sure.
 
Whenever I run 2-wire traveler cables between boxes, it's only when I route them with the hot and neutral cable between the boxes, sort of like a 4-conductor cable.

I'll take the switch leg and the neutral from whichever box suits the 'geography', and feed the hot at the other box. In other words, any current is always canceled by that in the other conductors.

I also permanently color the white in the traveler cable with a red or blue Sharpie as I install them, so there's no mix-up. This might be a use for 4-conductor cable, but I haven't used any yet.

Hmmm. If I asked for 14-4 NM without specifying colors, would I get black-red-blue-white or black-white-red-white/red? The former would be ideal for this kind of wiring.
 
larry

why would you do that instead of using a 14/3 cable? One run of wire instead of two. AND-- is that legal not being in the same cable???
 
LarryFine said:
Whenever I run 2-wire traveler cables between boxes, it's only when I route them with the hot and neutral cable between the boxes, sort of like a 4-conductor cable.
Hmmm... perhaps I'm out of touch in residential wiring as I haven't done any in quite some time... but wouldn't it only be necessary to run a 3-conductor cable between boxes. You'd run the switch leg and two travellers if you wanted to return the switch leg to the "hot" box... or you'd run the neutral and two travllers if you bring the switch leg out of the "remote" box...???
 
Dennis, good point relative to running Travellers. There are other applications in control circuits where that situation is applicable...of which I can not give a classic example at this moment.

Sorry for working you into a corner on this one Larry.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top