EM Fixture Wiring

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Alwayslearningelec

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NJ
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Estimator
Can someone explain how this would be wired. Would need 12/3 assume.

1. If you just had one switch and one of these lights.
2. If you had one switch and 2 lights on same circuit. One of them EM and one not.

THanks.
 

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Yes, 12/3 would work. If they're on the same ckt then they share a common neutral then use blk for pwr & red for switch leg for example .

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Thanks. It's the "tap ahead of the switch controlling the fixture so the fixture can be switched without going into em mode discharging the battery". Where do that tap happen? So you don't splice to the switch leg?
 
Thanks. It's the "tap ahead of the switch controlling the fixture so the fixture can be switched without going into em mode discharging the battery". Where do that tap happen? So you don't splice to the switch leg?
The junction box feeding the fixture should have a hot leg, switch leg and neutral. The hot feeds the battery pack.
 
The junction box feeding the fixture should have a hot leg, switch leg and neutral. The hot feeds the battery pack.
Right and non battery pack fixture has just switch leg and neutral if power brought to the switch.
So other end of hot leg going to the battery goes directly to panel or home run box?
 
Thanks. It's the "tap ahead of the switch controlling the fixture so the fixture can be switched without going into em mode discharging the battery". Where do that tap happen? So you don't splice to the switch leg?
Think of it as supplying a split-wired duplex receptacle, withe one opening always hot and the other switched.

The ballast needs to differentiate between losing power and being switched off (and keep the battery charged).
 
As Larry said, if you didn't have the constant hot, every time you turned the switch off the ballast would think there was a power loss and go into battery mode. This would drain the battery constantly while the switch was off.
 
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