(EU Carpet cleaning machine) step up transformer help

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I actually talked to your end user about 3 days ago, he had called a contractor friend of mine who decided from the description that he wasn't the right guy for this either and told him to call me because I used to have a panel shop where I did conversions of European equipment all the time. I don't do field work any more so I was trying to talk him through describing what he had, but he was not very technical and I was waiting for him to send me photos and data sheets, after which I was going to try to help him find another contractor. He unfortunately got burned by at least 3 other "electricians" before you that I'm aware of (not sure if some of them were legitimate or "handymen" types), one of which sold him this transformer and hooked it up, which didn't work. He has had this thing for 2 years with it not working through all of this, he then sold his older working unit to someone else assuming this one was going to work, but now that it doesn't, he's panicking (and the guy who bought his old one won't sell it back to him). So I'm glad (for his sake) that he took one more chance on bringing in a pro, this really needed eyes on it in the field.

The motors he has are all rated 50/60Hz (from what he told me) which is a good thing. The main motor for the roller is powered by a VFD, also a good thing. So really, the ONLY major problem here is that he has the wrong transformer for a control system that is using the Neutral of a 400Y230V expected system (common outside of North America) for his control power and for the blower. So what I would suggest is what Adrian Wint suggested earlier, because he ALREADY OWNS that 400V transformer now and the thing was custom made, so he can't return it. So as Adrian suggested, just go get a control power transformer that will give you 230V on the output with enough capacity to run that blower, the controls, and the solenoid valve at the end of the schematic. I would go for 1500VA, that gives you some overhead for starting that blower. You COULD try to find one that steps down from the 400V you have now, and that simplifies it from the standpoint of everything coming from behind that one main disconnect, or you COULD just use the 208V source you have now and simply get a buck-boost transformer to step it up to 230V, that's pretty easy too. You would need to remove the Neutral as a separate circuit and just make the whole thing an totally isolated floating 230V L-L control circuit by tying what's now the N wire to one side of your new 230V source and removing the connection to L3 that is the source of your "Hot" side now. That can't exist in the system he has now, so that then would become the other side of your new 230V system. You would also need to completely isolate out those 3 pilot lights that apparently give him Phase indication, because those too are all phase to N, which again, can't work now. So either just abandon them, or you will have to find 400V rated pilot lights, which is not likely.

Now there is a secondary problem, and that is that all of the coils on his control system are going to be rated at 230V 50Hz, and even if you get to 230V, it's going to be 60Hz. In my experience, those coils will fry in short order. You really should replace them all now with 60Hz coils. So... if you are going to go to that trouble, you could consider changing his entire control circuit over to 120V controls, and just feeding it from the 120V he already has. That then leaves only two problem areas; the blower still needs 230V (although he said it was 50/60Hz) and there is a solenoid valve that you may not be able to change easily. So you STILL may need a 230V transformer just for those two devices. I would however probably try to find a replacement blower and solenoid valve that run on 120V, because sooner or later they're going to need to be replaced anyway, and he will likely have to wait weeks to get whatever they are from some EU supplier someday, so the down time will cost him a LOT more in the future when he is already in production. Better to bite the bullet now and make the whole system compatible with our standards.

Don't worry about warranty issues, this thing is already out of warranty. He owns it outright now.

If you want dome more help, PM me, I'm right down the road.
 
Never set up a zig zag transformer any way you could walk me through it a bit?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

I havent either. It's a simple delta-wye xfmr that you need (the three links I left in my previous post are all delta-wye), or go with what jraef wrote. Personally, his route sounds like a lot of work and is probably beyond my ability. I'd look at used xfmrs as well.

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To others: would a 480 - 277/480Y transformer, like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-CAT-9T23...E-TRANSFORMER-480-277-480Y-VOLT-/290470219367

work at 380-415V input from the existing delta-delta xfmr? That would give 231V L-N @ 400V and a secondary neutral.
 
or go with what jraef wrote. Personally, his route sounds like a lot of work and is probably beyond my ability.


I don't know if it's beyond your ability (probably not) but I will agree it sounds like a lot of work (man hours).

I wonder how much the owner is willing to spend to get this equipment running. Sounds kind of fishy that he's already had three electricians working on it and it still not working.
 
I don't know if it's beyond your ability (probably not) but I will agree it sounds like a lot of work (man hours).

I wonder how much the owner is willing to spend to get this equipment running. Sounds kind of fishy that he's already had three electricians working on it and it still not working.

Thank you for the vote of confidence! :cool:

Hopefully the OP replies back here with a resolution to the problem.

Anyone have an answer to my question of running a 480 - 277/480 xfmr at 400V on the primary to get a 230Y/400V wye secondary? I know they have taps that go as low as 432V; would running one at 400V cause problems? If so, what would they be?
 
Thank you for the vote of confidence! :cool:

Hopefully the OP replies back here with a resolution to the problem.

Anyone have an answer to my question of running a 480 - 277/480 xfmr at 400V on the primary to get a 230Y/400V wye secondary? I know they have taps that go as low as 432V; would running one at 400V cause problems? If so, what would they be?
In general running a transformer at a lower voltage at the design frequency will not cause any problems.
It will deliver less than its rated power since the power rating is limited by the current in the windings.
And it will be more expensive than a comparable efficiency transformer used at its full rating, but using a standard rather than a custom transformer could easily make up for that and more.
The reactive (magnetizing) current will be lower than the design current, which is certainly not a problem. You will be farther away from saturation and may get some extra efficiency that way too.
 
A couple comments...

First, OP said mfgr told him this machine was designed for 50/60hz @400 or 230v: unless they do not know what they built, they used 50/60hz solenoids/coils,, no? I would take Jraf's advice but temper it to LOOKING at the coils and verify they are rated 230v 50/60hz - then take that headache off the table.

Second: DO NOT CHANGE THE WIRING OF THE CONTROL PANEL - NOT REQUIRED! I agree the concept of the separate 230v 1ph control transformer is a good one and would at least try it ONCE to verify the machine works with proper 230v to ground. BUT DON'T REWIRE ANYTHING.

Just remove that wrong feed-thru-neutral, and wire the 230v transformer output directly from L3 to N at the control panel. Remember, you have a fully isolated delta 400v 3ph so there is NO connection to ground or neutral. This the proper way to wire it.

If it were me, I would be tying in the 230v control transformer - thru a 4 amp fuse - as extra insurance. :) (At least for initial verification test).

To prevent a possible issue with OP being confused if his H1 is indeed tied to ground, OHM it first to verify it is NOT. The xfmr mfgr simply showed a DOTTED line to ground from H1 as a SUGGESTION. OP verified by measuring voltage from each L to ground and getting even 230v without the load hooked up, so it probably is not tied to ground. OP should clarify if he measured 29v from L3 to GROUND or Neutral. In either case, I would make sure there is no ground tied to H1 or L1 in his picture as shown.
 
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