EV Charging Approach - Difficult Choice

[retirede]

There is nothing in the Tesla manual for their Wall Charger about a hardware setting. It's all software.

https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/support/charging/Gen3_WallConnector_Installation_Manual.pdf

Since the breaker size is set during commissioning and cannot be changed by the user, this would be code-compliant. The gen 1 WC had hardware settings:

 

[ESolar]

Since the breaker size is set during commissioning and cannot be changed by the user, this would be code-compliant. The gen 1 WC had hardware settings:

I think the point is that a plug may not be just a plug, but it should be treated as such. I bet that that commisioning is no guarantee (the Wall Charger itself has no way to store the info). Instead, make sure to not plug it into a car pulling more than the circuit can handle. Also, preferrably, wire your circuit with #6 so that the wire is protected in any case (although the breaker is protecting the wire - the #6 is additional protection and provides options). In my case, #10 was already on site. But if I were doing a new run for an EV, even on 30A breaker (eg, due to load calcs), I would pull #6 because a car can draw up to 48A continuous. It's probably overkill given that the 30A breaker is supposed to do its job.

 

[ESolar]

Since the breaker size is set during commissioning and cannot be changed by the user, this would be code-compliant. The gen 1 WC had hardware settings:

IMO - they should not have removed the hardware settings. Those ensured limits on the load. I bet they get complaints of tripping and possibly some melted wire.

 

[retirede]

IMO - they should not have removed the hardware settings. Those ensured limits on the load. I bet they get complaints of tripping and possibly some melted wire.

To be fair, it’s probably for the end user to remove the cover and change the DIP switch settings than to call Tesla to have them reset the software. I have no idea if Tesla requires any kind of verification before making the change or not?

 

[DH Electric Co]

I don't know what all the fuss is about, I always just install things the right way.

Which way is the right way you ask?

The way I do it is the right way. Anymore silly questions?

 

[retirede]

I don't know what all the fuss is about, I always just install things the right way.

Which way is the right way you ask?

The way I do it is the right way. Anymore silly questions?

I have one silly question: Are you implying that there is only one “right way?”

 

[DanS26]

What got too hot: The #4 AL, #6 CU (you wrote #4 but I assume that you meant #6), Tesla cable, or the Wall Charger box? And how hot is "too hot"? Given that the wires are near their ampacity limit at 75 C (48/.8 = 60; ampacity of wire = 65 amps at 75 C), they should run hot: am I correct? And is that really a problem given that the wire is designed to? I guess if you dont like it then you go with #2 AL and #4 CU. But the Wall Charger will probably still get hot unless you reduce the amperage like you did. #6 CU is called for by Tesla. One of the experts here probably has something to say about this.

Sorry I did not answer your question earlier. The 60 amp breaker breaker got too hot and started melting the wire insulation at the properly torqued breaker connection. The wires at the Tesla charger were fine. It was my own fault...I reused an old Cutler Hammer breaker that was at least 30 years old. Replaced with new breaker and everything at the panel cooled down.

I would still advise not to charge at 48 amps for hours at a time on a 60 amp circuit. Do it if the need arises but run at 42 amps and keep things cool and longer lasting.

 

[DH Electric Co]

I have one silly question: Are you implying that there is only one “right way?”

I will stand by my statement without further comment.