Exhaust fan problems.

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ActionDave

Chief Moderator
Staff member
Location
Durango, CO, 10 h 20 min from the winged horses.
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Licensed Electrician
Round up as many consumer grade skeleton motors as you can, put them on the bench and open 'em up. I'll give you five dollars every time there is no thermal and I'll take a dollar every time there is....

Feel lucky......well do ya? Go ahead make my ___.

I'm gonna stop now. I have already dated my self just not confirmed it.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Round up as many consumer grade skeleton motors as you can, put them on the bench and open 'em up. I'll give you five dollars every time there is no thermal and I'll take a dollar every time there is....

Feel lucky......well do ya? Go ahead make my ___.

I'm gonna stop now. I have already dated my self just not confirmed it.

You two trade that money you mentioned, I'll sell the copper and steel when you are done, and we will see who has the bigger pile of money afterward:)
 

GlennG

Member
Location
Hicksville, NY
thank you all for the responses. I apologize for not responding sooner, i forgot to subscribe to thread and didn't see the replies.
Anyway, first time i got called back, i replaced the gfci, seemed to be ok. Then the woman was telling me she would re-set the gfci and the fan wouldn't come back on ( the thermal was still open). It is a fan light combo, and almost directly in shower. The lamp used is a CFL provided with fan. I am feeling confident that changing the fan to something with a little more quality will help. Considering i swapped the motor a few times, and every time it reacted slightly different to the environment, it seems the inconsistansy lies there. I haven't had a chance to swap fan yet, but i will provide feedback once i do.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
The heater coils have one too but a different style and higher temp rating.

The skeleton motors have there own and they are everywhere heater or not. The fan in my room humidifier has one.

You are saying there are motors with a "one shot" thermal overload, and this is embedded in a place not all that readily replaceable?

If so I don't know I have ever seen that. I have seen many auto resetting thermal overloads in small motors like we are talking about but never a "one shot" type of device.

I suppose I could have missed it on some that I maybe just assumed had open winding and ended up replacing with no further investigating.
 

ActionDave

Chief Moderator
Staff member
Location
Durango, CO, 10 h 20 min from the winged horses.
Occupation
Licensed Electrician
You are saying there are motors with a "one shot" thermal overload, and this is embedded in a place not all that readily replaceable?
Yes.
I suppose I could have missed it on some that I maybe just assumed had open winding and ended up replacing with no further investigating.
I bet that is what you did. If I did know about them myself I would have assumed the same thing when the fan quit working on my humidifier.
 

hurk27

Senior Member
UL has been requiring thermo-fuses in these motors for quite a while, yes they are buried in the windings and if you look at the end of the windings you will see three terminals, one is where the winding connects to the fuse and the other end connects to the terminal to the hot, the last one is of course the neutral connection, I have jumped between these to get my own fan back running after I cleaned the motor and lubed it, but I would never do it on a customers fan as now you have a fire waiting to happen.

You will also find these thermo-fuses in small doorbell and furnace transformers, if you dig one out of the windings they look like a small cap with a pointed end, but they will have a temp rating on them, most are rated in centigrade although I have seen a few with a 194?F rating common is 90?C, Radio Shack even sells them for hobby use in a variety of ratings.

Most shaded pole motors are impedance protected but leave one in a lock rotor condition long enough and they can cause a fire because the insulation can start to fail on the windings and as they start to short together it can get hotter and hotter.

Next time you have one of these motors out, look for the bump in the paper or plastic winding cover, also look for the three connections if you have one that has quit running, take a wire between the hot and the terminal that has no outside connection and it will run again if the motor is free to run, but do not use it like this as it has a chance of causing a fire, also many PSC motors has them in them also, there was a recall on some China made box and floor stand fans because they didn't put a thermo-fuse in the windings which the warning was about how they could cause a fire, I think it was about 10 to 15 years ago??

Here's a image of one:
pRS1C-2160166t98.jpg


And a web link that has a little info about them: Comstat
 
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