Exhaust hood lights

[FrancisDoody]

Can someone tell me how they would mount commercial exhaust hood lights. In the past I have punched a 2" hole in the hood and mounted the flat plate on top of the hood with the mounting screws extending down through the 2" hole. Then you can slip the base on the mounting screws, tighten them up and you are done with that part. The next part is were I have the most trouble. In the past I would mount a 4" square and pipe them together. I would like a less labor intensive approach to this task. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Fran

 

[mdshunk]

I've generally used a T-body on the outside of the hood at each light location, and used a close nipple to go from the center hub on the t-body into the threaded opening in the back of each fixture. Pipe the t-bodies together. If you wanted faster, I guess you could use Greenfield? It's not a fast operation, no matter how you do it, since you're not allowed to pipe the fixtured together inside the hood anymore.

 

[BryanMD]

Can someone tell me how they would mount commercial exhaust hood lights.

Back when I built exhaust hoods we would tack weld an octagon box over a neatly punched hole and set a length of 1/2 emt between boxes. The light fixtures we supplied were the nicer ones with a wide base and gasket that attached to the jbox very neatly.

 

[LarryFine]

Okay, how about this: use the round cast box with enclosed caged fixture as usual, completely inside the hood, with an MC connector coming out of the back center hole, through a 1" hole punched in the hood, mounted with two 3/16" holes for stainless nuts and bolts.

On the top, run the individual MC's to a well-located 4" sq. box, where they'll connect to an additional length of MC (unless you're using EMT) to join the rest of the hood system. Individual 'whips' eliminiates making splices inside the hood boxes or in conduit bodies.

Added: If you prefer, you can use Marc's close-nipple idea, but with a locknut (or two if needed) to mount a J-box above each light, if above-hood access is easy. I'd still use MC rather than a rigid wiring method, though.