Exterior sconce box rough in

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greenjourneyman

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So I haven't done very much residential. What are some recommendations for exterior wall boxes for receptacles and sconce lights? Siding is not up yet.i think they are going with lap siding. The only way I've seen it done is let them side it, stub out Romex , and put up a pancake box. I guess it works but fixture wasn't plumb but slanted with lap. Thanks in advance
 
It is important to work with the siding company and the builder. I have the builder tell the siding guys to install a, 5/4"by xx or a 1 1/2" by xx, board. I leave the wire in the wall in the area that the board will be installed. This all depends on the insulation. If they use the hard foam- closed or open cell insulation then I insist that the siding goes up first and I install the boxes before the installation. I use a pop in plastic box that uses a 3 5/8" hole saw.

The receptacle I use an old work switch box and cut it into the siding. If the siding isn't there I stub it out but I make sure the siding crew stubs it out in the center of the boards. I can pust the wire back in later and cut out the hole.

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images
 
I tried to get the carpenters to put up a block of wood where the lights or recpt would be located. A 2x6 cedar or redwood works great. Punch out a 3" hole for lights, jigsaw out a rectangle for recpts.

Arlington makes plastic versions of the same thing.
 
ActionDave said:
I tried to get the carpenters to put up a block of wood where the lights or recpt would be located. A 2x6 cedar or redwood works great. Punch out a 3" hole for lights, jigsaw out a rectangle for recpts.

Arlington makes plastic versions of the same thing.
Click to expand...

Depending on the fixture a 2x6 may not work. I have had to install fixtures with long bases similar to the one below

Camden%2BOutdoor%2BWall%2BLantern.jpg
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Depending on the fixture a 2x6 may not work. I have had to install fixtures with long bases similar to the one below

Camden%2BOutdoor%2BWall%2BLantern.jpg
Click to expand...
How about a 2x6 18" long then?:)
If you're lucky enough to have the fixtures picked out at rough in that's a real bonus.

What you said about coordinating with the builder and siding guys is 100% true.
 
They make medallions for the purpose. allows for a flat space for your fixture.
 
Boards require paint and therefore rot after a while. We use the plastic boxes with the J channel built in for the vinyl siding to fit into. Arlington, among others, makes them. All we ever see around here is vinyl siding. If it was wood siding, then a wood block would be the way to go. Equal lifetime block and siding.

For brick we stub out the Romex and hand the plastic boxes to the mason to lay in with the brick.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Not acceptable on most of my jobs. We get the correct size boards up.
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So if a prefab medallion is not acceptable, what is?
Do you make your own? How do you deal with lap siding and provide a level flat space for the fixture?
 
Great ideas guys, it was lap siding and wanted the sconces to be plumb so ordered Arlington stuff. Luckily I had time or I would be cutting boards and asking for paint . Thanks again:thumbsup:
 
Sierrasparky said:
So if a prefab medallion is not acceptable, what is?
Do you make your own? How do you deal with lap siding and provide a level flat space for the fixture?
Click to expand...
Like Dennis said, you have the carpenters install a flat, level block for the fixture to butt up to...your fixture will be secure, level, and you can usually install a 1 1/2" x 3.0 box...no need for a pancake box.
 
grizwald said:
Like Dennis said, you have the carpenters install a flat, level block for the fixture to butt up to...your fixture will be secure, level, and you can usually install a 1 1/2" x 3.0 box...no need for a pancake box.
Click to expand...

That sounds ideal and will look better.
Do you ever get the carpenters out after siding to do this.
I have had many a customer wait to order lights well after siding is up.
Light shows up with a huge back-plate, and block too small.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
It is important to work with the siding company and the builder. I have the builder tell the siding guys to install a, 5/4"by xx or a 1 1/2" by xx, board. I leave the wire in the wall in the area that the board will be installed. This all depends on the insulation. If they use the hard foam- closed or open cell insulation then I insist that the siding goes up first and I install the boxes before the installation. I use a pop in plastic box that uses a 3 5/8" hole saw.

The receptacle I use an old work switch box and cut it into the siding. If the siding isn't there I stub it out but I make sure the siding crew stubs it out in the center of the boards. I can pust the wire back in later and cut out the hole.

images
images
Click to expand...

Hi Dennis, I can't quite picture how this (Unfinished?) board is installed. Just nail up some braces between the studs and spaced out accordingly? It is flush with the siding right? I do like to use those Arlington siding blocks if I only have a single cable going to it. I see you like those round old work boxes, I never used one before. Is that your go to old work round box for drywall as well? How is it better than the regular toggle one?
 
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