Finally Found One in the Wild!

Little Bill

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Location
Tennessee NEC:2017
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Semi-Retired Electrician
I was replacing 3-way switches in an old house that is getting remodeled. Some of them were back stabbed so I just cut the wires. Came upon one that was both back stabbed and used the side screws. I had seen some before and they were just using both the screw and back hole instead of a wire nut, so I just cut the wires without looking where they were placed on the switch.

When I was trying to find the hot common and load common, nothing came out right using my toner. The wires actually changed colors as to the normal way when checking at the light and 2nd 3-way. The light box just had a 2-wire cable, and the other 3-way just had the 3-wire cable, like a dead end 3-way. Since the colors didn't match (I could see the insulation on the old 3-way to see what color went where), I determined there must be a junction box somewhere. I cut out a section of the ceiling and found the junction box.

What I found in the junction box confused the heck out of me. There was a 3-wire cable that brought the hot and neutral from the 1st 3-way box. Then a 2-wire cable to the light. Then there was a 2-wire cable to a receptacle in the room. Then a 3-wire cable to the 2nd 3-way. But at the 2nd 3-way there was also a single pole switch for an outside light. The hot was sent down to the box, and a neutral for the outside light. What was confusing was there was only a 3-wire cable and not enough conductors for a hot, neutral, and 2 travelers.

I could not see how this was possible, so I just left it for my next visit. This was praying on my mind while at home so I started thinking about it more. Then it hit me that it must be an old, not allowed anymore, wiring method.
I looked up some old diagrams and first thought it was a California 3-way wiring, but saw that takes 4 conductors, and I only had 3. Then I found what is called a Carter 3-way. It only uses 3 conductors.

This was exactly what I had. The way these wire is one common is tied to the hot terminal of the light, and the other common is tied to the neutral of the light Then one traveler is tied to the respective traveler at the other switch, along with the hot conductor. The other travelers from each switch are tied together along with the neutral. If a receptacle is wanted at the 2nd 3-way, it is available, same with the neutral. Could also add a light with a single pole switch. This is what they done at this house and why I couldn't see how they got a neutral with not enough wires.

This allows the 3-ways to work one light, an added receptacle, and an additional switch for a different light. Only thing I see unsafe is in one position of the 3-way, one terminal of the light would be hot, but the bulb wouldn't be lit. This could cause someone to think no power at the light since it wasn't lit and get a shock.

I've heard of these old wiring schemes, but never encountered one. Thought it was interesting and wanted to share.
I do plan on running another cable from another source for the outside light, and just have a dead end 3-way.

Here is the wiring diagram.
1775952054030.png
 
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I was replacing 3-way switches in an old house that is getting remodeled. Some of them were back stabbed so I just cut the wires. Came upon one that was both back stabbed and used the side screws. I had seen some before and they were just using both the screw and back hole instead of a wire nut, so I just cut the wires without looking where they were placed on the switch.

When I was trying to find the hot common and load common, nothing came out right using my toner. The wires actually changed colors as to the normal way when checking at the light and 2nd 3-way. The light box just had a 2-wire cable, and the other 3-way just had the 3-wire cable, like a dead end 3-way. Since the colors didn't match (I could see the insulation on the old 3-way to see what color went where), I determined there must be a junction box somewhere. I cut out a section of the ceiling and found the junction box.

What I found in the junction box confused the heck out of me. There was a 3-wire cable that brought the hot and neutral from the 1st 3-way box. Then a 2-wire cable to the light. Then there was a 2-wire cable to a receptacle in the room. Then a 3-wire cable to the 2nd 3-way. But at the 2nd 3-way there was also a single pole switch for an outside light. The hot was sent down to the box, and a neutral for the outside light. What was confusing was there was only a 3-wire cable and not enough conductors for a hot, neutral, and 2 travelers.

I could not see how this was possible, so I just left it for my next visit. This was praying on my mind while at home so I started thinking about it more. Then it hit me that it must be an old, not allowed anymore, wiring method.
I looked up some old diagrams and first thought it was a California 3-way wiring, but saw that takes 4 conductors, and I only had 3. Then I found what is called a Carter 3-way. It only uses 3 conductors.

This was exactly what I had. The way these wire is one common is tied to the hot terminal of the light, and the other common is tied to the neutral of the light Then one traveler is tied to the respective traveler at the other switch, along with the hot conductor. The other travelers from each switch are tied together along with the neutral. If a receptacle is wanted at the 2nd 3-way, it is available, same with the neutral. Could also add a light with a single pole switch. This is what they done at this house and why I couldn't see how they got a neutral with not enough wires.

This allows the 3-ways to work one light, an added receptacle, and an additional switch for a different light. Only thing I see unsafe is in one position of the 3-way, one terminal of the light would be hot, but the bulb wouldn't be lit. This could cause someone to think no power at the light since it wasn't lit and get a shock.

I've heard of these old wiring schemes, but never encountered one. Thought it was interesting and wanted to share.
I do plan on running another cable from another source for the outside light, and just have a dead end 3-way.

Here is the wiring diagram.
View attachment 2582726
Now wire that circuit without the hot and neutral between the two switches. Separate hots and neutrals to each switch. When I was an apprentice, I was with a JW changing an old 120 volt 30 amp service to a 100 amp 120/240 volt service.
When we were finished, we found a circuit where the two switches were feed from two separate circuits. When it was a 120 volt service, it didn't make any difference however when you end up with two circuits on opposite legs the lamp is very bright for a very short time.
 
in the midwest, we call this a CALIFORNIA 3-WAY. they're becoming more and more rare as they were really more common during tube&knob wiring.

be careful when you go to snip. it might go BANG. :)
 
Is the one in post #6 actually prohibited?

The neutral isn't switched.

When both switches are down, there is a parallel path for current, but the switches are interposed so I don't think these are technically 'parallel conductors' by NEC standards, and in any case the incidental parallel path is protected at the ampacity of an individual conductor.

Are there any other issues?

Thanks
Jonathan
 
A California 3-way uses 4 conductors.
hmmm.... i have never ran into this configuration. multiple luminaires fed from multiple switches.

i have, however, ran into the hot to one traveller on each switch, and neutral on the other traveller of each switch, with the commons ran to the 2 different poles of a luminaire. i guess you (and the internet) calls them a 'carter 3-way'. my bosses at the time, always referred to them as 'california 3-way'. guess i learned something new, today! :)
 
I've seen the Carter method with K&T wiring a few times. Also seen it used between house and outbuilding where they had a light at the outbuilding that was switched from both the house and at the outbuilding and also had other 120 volt loads at the out building. Typically was overhead hard drawn copper conductors between the buildings that had been there since the 1930's or 1940's. Once seen one that was 12AWG THHN/THWN, overhead but appeared to have replaced something older at some point when looking what it connected to at each end.
 
New service on an old two fuse K&T. The three way to the basement kicked my butt. I ended up rewiring it entirely. I hadn't heard of those odd switch arrangements back then and am glad I haven't seen another. Danged embarrassing that the switches worked fine before the service change but not after.
Ran into one too. It was easier and quicker to rewire it than it was to try to figure it out.
 
New service on an old two fuse K&T. The three way to the basement kicked my butt. I ended up rewiring it entirely. I hadn't heard of those odd switch arrangements back then and am glad I haven't seen another. Danged embarrassing that the switches worked fine before the service change but not after.
My experience very similar

I don't think I've seen one since, now that I would know what it is
 
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