Finding Low voltage wall plate

al hildenbrand

Senior Member
Location
Minnesota
Occupation
Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
Holes are too big, screws are in the wrong position. I saw that one too.-Hal
Go back and read post #15 by S'mise. The thread could have ended there. OP asked and #15 answered.

The chosen answer is using an available 3 gang decora brushed nickel plate (with three step edge) and blank decora inserts, field drilled and spray painted. The plates that Sameguy links to look to be a good match, and, when you look at the other choices available in that style, at Sameguy's link, you will find a 3 gang decora. . . FWIW. But S'mise said he already has that decora plate.
 

S'mise

Senior Member
Location
Michigan
You might try contacting the plate manufacturer and see if they can make a batch of blank plates as a special order.
I would, but I only need one that's 3 gang.
Whatsy annoying me, is I have to order the (wrong)3g decora plate because no one stocks them locally.:rant:

Then I have to wait till it arrives and cobble up inserts and paint to make it work.

This will have to wait awhile.:happysad:

I appreciate your advice.
 

synchro

Senior Member
Location
Chicago, IL
Occupation
EE
Holes are too big, screws are in the wrong position. I saw that one too.

-Hal

https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/switchplate-mid-century-triple-push-button?sc=25&category=427774

For the big holes, would stainless fender washers to span the larger hole and a smaller washer behind it to center the switch in the hole work out?
A sheet metal strap with holes tapped for the switch plate mounting, and clearance holes for mounting the strap to box (and also holes to clear the switches themselves) could be made.
 
Last edited:

S'mise

Senior Member
Location
Michigan
https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/switchplate-mid-century-triple-push-button?sc=25&category=427774

For the big holes, would stainless fender washers to span the larger hole and a smaller washer behind it to center the switch in the hole work out?.
That's a great idea, but using fender washers would make it look a little funny, along with the spacing of the holes a little different than the others.

Besides, I already ordered the decora plate and blank inserts. I'll post a picture of how it looks next week.

I do appreciate it.
 

al hildenbrand

Senior Member
Location
Minnesota
Occupation
Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
Paint all 4 of the plates in that cluster so at least they'll -appear- to be the same!
But then those four three-gang plates won't match the nearby receptacle plates.

John, short of getting a custom color match, I think you've done a good job. The customer's switches stand out, . . . They are Power & Light controls, not to be confused with the "grayed out" security controls. The nickel paint, although not a match, mutes the security group.

I like it.
 

S'mise

Senior Member
Location
Michigan
Thanks guys. Sometimes you do the best you can and move on.
I often remind myself, "you're not building a church".
​​​​​​
 

brantmacga

Senior Member
Location
Georgia
Occupation
Electrical contractor
Any (ballpark) idea what "expensive" is?
I had to order a custom 4gg stainless plate 3 weeks ago for LV infrared heater switches; it was $100 plus shipping.

It was four cutouts roughly 20mm x 20 mm.

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S'mise

Senior Member
Location
Michigan
I had to order a custom 4gg stainless plate 3 weeks ago for LV infrared heater switches; it was $100 plus shipping.

It was four cutouts roughly 20mm x 20 mm.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I might try cutting out the plate myself at that price.
I use blue painters tape on the face (to stop scratches) before drilling/cutting with a fine tooth jig-saw blade. I've had success doing snap in rocker switches like that in the past.
I admit it's not fun.

The trick with stainless steel is using low rpms.

Of course if the customer doesn't mind just add it to the list.
 

brantmacga

Senior Member
Location
Georgia
Occupation
Electrical contractor
I’ve done it with painters tape and a small cut off wheel; just keep it low enough to not scorch the finish. But to me it’s worth it to pay $100 versus spending two hours trying to measure and cut.


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LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
I'm back to contacting the plate maker and ask if they will make the blank plates you need. After all, what you'd really be asking them to do is not do machining to plates they already make.
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
I'm back to contacting the plate maker and ask if they will make the blank plates you need. After all, what you'd really be asking them to do is not do machining to plates they already make.
Wouldn't even have to do the holes. For a blank they would be different locations than the other plates they make so they may object. Drill them yourself and use a countersink.

-Hal
 

S'mise

Senior Member
Location
Michigan
As with many things, it has to do with time/money.
I find it's not worth spending much of either, dealing with the manufacture.
Most of my jobs aren't long term plans that afford the luxury of waiting a month or so for a plate to be made up.
 

brantmacga

Senior Member
Location
Georgia
Occupation
Electrical contractor
As with many things, it has to do with time/money.
I find it's not worth spending much of either, dealing with the manufacture.
Most of my jobs aren't long term plans that afford the luxury of waiting a month or so for a plate to be made up.
Typically it’s a 7 day turn around for me. Idk I’d call and ask at least but I understand your point


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S'mise

Senior Member
Location
Michigan
Perhaps I'll try and call manufacture next time.

Thanks again for everyones advice.

The makeshift plate looks decent, so I'll consider it a success.
 
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