Fire-caulk for work done in existing homes

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jeff48356

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When wiring new homes, of course, fire-caulk is required in the vertical holes (through plates), as well as those that penetrate plenum spaces. But is this also required when adding new wiring in existing 1960's homes where wiring is fished through walls that were never opened up?
 
When wiring new homes, of course, fire-caulk is required in the vertical holes (through plates), as well as those that penetrate plenum spaces. But is this also required when adding new wiring in existing 1960's homes where wiring is fished through walls that were never opened up?

If you drill any holes I would assume they would be required to be caulked. If you are doing a remodel with a permit it would help if the inspector checks. Even if you use an existing hole I would caulk around any new wiring that you run.
 
That's what I do also. But I understand that you don't have to use actual fire caulk, spray foam is just fine. All they want to do is keep the draft from carrying smoke and flame from floor to floor.

-Hal
 
If you drill any holes I would assume they would be required to be caulked. If you are doing a remodel with a permit it would help if the inspector checks. Even if you use an existing hole I would caulk around any new wiring that you run.

It would let the inspector know you are paying attention. Build your street cred.
 
What is the code reference for caulking.
I think there might be something for draft insulation. As far as I am aware the only time you fire caulk is when you penetrate a fire barrier. Such as a fire rated ceiling or wall. I would not think a SFR would need such in the interior walls.
 
What is the code reference for caulking.
I think there might be something for draft insulation. As far as I am aware the only time you fire caulk is when you penetrate a fire barrier. Such as a fire rated ceiling or wall. I would not think a SFR would need such in the interior walls.

You and Hal are correct, the code article section is 300.21

Roger
 
I'm crawling through a dirty dusty dark attic with my head hitting nails coming through the roof.... I find an existing hole that I'm able to use, then I'm going to fill the hole ...... but not the one next to it, or the one next to that....???
I drill a new hole.... I will fill that one, but not the existing one next to that or the existing one next to that one...... sure... I do it all the time.
 
Art 520 and Info

Art 520 and Info

I have used the disposable foam cans, messy, duct seal and fire rated duct seal.
At work I got a Hilti spray foam gun, expensive but in the long run, not a all. you are able to finely control the spray, the nozzle never plugs, and the foam cans last a long time. No more foam on my hands and clothes
https://www.hilti.com/c/CLS_CONSTRC...ION_CHEMICALS_7132/CLS_DISPENSERS_7132/259768
Don't drop over at the price!
Hilit has variable pricing. Get the guy out in the red truck and he will work with you. Better yet on the job so you can try it out
 
I'm crawling through a dirty dusty dark attic with my head hitting nails coming through the roof.... I find an existing hole that I'm able to use, then I'm going to fill the hole ...... but not the one next to it, or the one next to that....???
I drill a new hole.... I will fill that one, but not the existing one next to that or the existing one next to that one...... sure... I do it all the time.

I think we all know that you can do whatever you want way back in a dark attic because it's never going to be seen.

That was not the question. The question is if fishing wiring in an old house would require following the same codes as new construction? To include fire stopping of holes where cable is run. I don't know of an exception to the rule for old works.
 
I'm in wood-constructed residential attics nearly everyday. All I ever see in topsill holes is expanding foam. I've only seen fire-caulking in firewalls separating different dwellings.

But I believe your question is transitive, and valid. If fire-caulking OR foam sealant was required during construction, I have to believe it remains required afterward.
 
That's what I'm saying. I use fire caulk because I have it on the truck and spray foam is "use once and throw the rest away".

-Hal

I'm in wood-constructed residential attics nearly everyday. All I ever see in topsill holes is expanding foam. I've only seen fire-caulking in firewalls separating different dwellings.

But I believe your question is transitive, and valid. If fire-caulking OR foam sealant was required during construction, I have to believe it remains required afterward.

Sure real fire wall caulk is expensive. The fire stop caulk I normally use is for non rated wall and only cost about $6 a tube. Gray in color.

You can buy some cheaper stuff for residential or you can use foam.

I'm like HAL and I wouldn't open the spray foam for just a half dozen holes.
 
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Good point. I guess I'm just agreeing that SOMETHING needs to go in the hole if something was required in the holes when under initial construction. If it doesn't have to be firewall caulking, use whatever is m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶e̶f̶f̶i̶c̶i̶e̶n̶t̶ on the truck.
 
Not to debate, as it is there in black and white.... but was questioning this caulking and sealing of holes when I was doing a couple of new homes couple years back...
The general consensus was it is the insulators job.????
 
It's normally our job to fire stop our work because our inspector looks for it so it's our responsibility to get it done. As for other trades like plumbing and HVAC I believe the building inspector checks for fire stopping so the GC may make it part of the insulators responsibility because it's on the GC to get it done.

-Hal
 
Not to debate, as it is there in black and white.... but was questioning this caulking and sealing of holes when I was doing a couple of new homes couple years back...
The general consensus was it is the insulators job.????

That will depend on the contract. Union jobs will want electricians doing it, but that's not common in residential.
 
That's what I do also. But I understand that you don't have to use actual fire caulk, spray foam is just fine. All they want to do is keep the draft from carrying smoke and flame from floor to floor.

-Hal
It's also to keep the conditioned / unconditioned spaces separated.
 
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