Fluke 1587 Insulation Multimeter

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iwire

iwire

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So I finally got an insulation tester ...... well the company got ..... I just ordered it. :cool:

So now that it's in my truck how do I use it?

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+1587+1577.htm

I have to test a lot of circuits that will be run with 10 AWG USE-2 / RHW-2 insulation in rigid metal conduit.

How would you Megameter veterans go about it and what kind of readings should I expect?
 
iwire said:
So I finally got an insulation tester ...... well the company got ..... I just ordered it. :cool:

So now that it's in my truck how do I use it?

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+1587+1577.htm

I have to test a lot of circuits that will be run with 10 AWG USE-2 / RHW-2 insulation in rigid metal conduit.

How would you Megameter veterans go about it and what kind of readings should I expect?
Click to expand...

Download "A stitch in time" (And call it a megger, or megohmeter). Dont know what to expect from that type of system, but typically LV wiring should be >100M. phase to phase, and phase to ground. Make sure you check out the other end and be sure no one will contact the other end while you are testing.
 
zog said:
Download "A stitch in time"
Click to expand...

Thanks, I did that and printed it out but have not really got into it yet.

Dont know what to expect from that type of system, but typically LV wiring should be >100M. phase to phase, and phase to ground.
Click to expand...

That is more then I knew before. :smile:
 
I have used the megger many times albiet with medium voltage systems. I am not familiar with your particular test set but it will either have two or three terminal connections.
T1 Hot
T2 Guard (Optional)
T3 Return

If you want to measure between phases Connect T1 to one phase and T3 to the other. If you have T2 (guard terminal) you can connect that to ground. This allows you to eliminate any current leaking thru ground that may contaminate your phase to phase result.

You can also test from phase to ground in a similar fashion.

T1 - conductor
T3 - ground (this could be a connection to the EGC, ground bus, etc.)


To save time you can get jumper wires (wire with alligators clips on both sides) and connect all 3 phases of a 3-phase sytem. Connect T1 to anyone of the phases and T3 to ground. This allows you to test all phases to ground at the same time. If you get a bad test reading then go ahead and test them one at a time to determine which phase has the problem.



Also, be sure to isolate the part of the system (circuit you are interested in testing. This may require disconnecting metering, bonding jumpers, etc.)
 
iwire said:
No guard terminal.

Thanks for the tips, I am sure you just saved me some time.:)
Click to expand...
1587/1577 Users Manual

See Page 24.

It really is this simple :D

I generally expect to get the max reading (i.e. meter infinity). Short of that, read the literature specified above and then decide how you want to proceed...
 
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watch out when you start the test you need to make sure no loads are connected. that voltage can fry electronic equipment and pop capacitors. start at the lowest voltage first to check for connected loads. maybe even use the regular ohmmeter function before connecting any higher voltages
 
electricalperson said:
watch out when you start the test you need to make sure no loads are connected. that voltage can fry electronic equipment and pop capacitors. start at the lowest voltage first to check for connected loads. maybe even use the regular ohmmeter function before connecting any higher voltages
Click to expand...
Fluke by design had a voltage sensor and alert, built into this line of insulation testers as many of the modern day meggers do. But not all, Safety first, his unit has a built in votlage meter he got the twofer
 
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cadpoint said:
Fluke by design had a voltage sensor and alert, built in in this line of insulation testers as many of the modern day meggers do. But not all, Safety first, his unit has a built in votlage meter he got the twofer
Click to expand...
im talking about putting a megger on a dead circuit with a computer or something still plugged in or connected to the circuit
 
... Oh true that, gezz for the second time today that selective thought happened from selective reading, I got lost on load from your statement.
Now if you said make, sure that there are no devices hanging off the circuit... I might not have posted.
:)
 
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that megger has voltage sensing capabilities, will function as an ohm-meter (it will show a dead short or resistive load) before you get to push the test button and i dont think it will apply voltage when it senses anything but an open circuit.

it also has a neat feature that will bleed off any residual voltage left in the conductors after the test as long as you leave the leads on for a second or two
 
electricalperson said:
watch out when you start the test you need to make sure no loads are connected. that voltage can fry electronic equipment and pop capacitors. start at the lowest voltage first to check for connected loads. maybe even use the regular ohmmeter function before connecting any higher voltages
Click to expand...

I always use the ohmmeter function first, to check for connected loads I might have missed.
 
Smart $ said:
1587/1577 Users Manual

See Page 24.

It really is this simple :D
Click to expand...

LOL, the meter came directly to me so I have all the literature that came with it.

But before I go digging into the instructions I figured I could get some tips here .... and I have. :cool:


Make sure you check out the other end and be sure no one will contact the other end while you are testing.
Click to expand...

Also, be sure to isolate the part of the system (circuit you are interested in testing. This may require disconnecting metering, bonding jumpers, etc.)
Click to expand...

watch out when you start the test you need to make sure no loads are connected. that voltage can fry electronic equipment and pop capacitors.
Click to expand...

:D

Gentlemen, I know your trying to help, but I have a pretty good grasp on the fact that 1000 VDC could be bad for equipment or humans. :cool:

Mostly what I am wondering about the readings I should be getting back on good conductors. :smile:
 
According to 2007 NETA Standards

For cables rated between 0-600V

Minimum Test Voltage 500V

Minimum MegaOhms Reading 500
 
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