jjwitty
Member
- Location
- Indianapolis
- Occupation
- Automation
Preface: I’m an automation professional by training (degree), but I’ve been unofficially designated as the plant “specialist.” That role puts me in charge of all things electrical—which inevitably includes about 150 motors.
Last year, I requested a megger, but Megger Inc. quoted me $18,000 for a ≤600-volt device. My director scoffed at the price but approved a Fluke 757 instead. It’s not a real megger, though some people seem comfortable calling it one. Personally, I refer to it as an insulation tester. I assume those who casually use “megger” have never actually seen a real megger quote—but I digress.
Since getting the 757, I’ve yet to find a single bad motor, even though maintenance keeps pulling “bad” ones off the floor. I don’t want to be that guy who tells them they don’t know what they’re talking about and then points at the 757 results—but the truth is, I have no real baseline for what a “bad” motor even looks like on this tester.
Typically, the motors they claim are “shorted” are ones where someone didn’t secure the wiring properly, and a wire nut fell off and grounded out. Sparks and molten insulation are enough for them to assume it’s toast. But when I test it with the 757, it reads fine. Just to be sure I always do a basic ohms test phase to phase also. So, instead of scrapping them, I clean up the wiring and put the motors back on the shelf.
Now, I’m here to make sure I’m testing these motors correctly. All of them are 480V. The Fluke 757 came with three leads—two standard ones, and a third with the test button for resistance testing. I connect that to the designated spot, move the black lead under the insulation tester port, set the voltage to 1000V, and test between phases. Every time, I get a reading of exactly 2 MΩ. I also test to casing.
Here’s the weird part: if I press the test button without the leads connected to anything, I still get the same result—2 MΩ. The Fluke instructions are horrible, and their YouTube videos somehow manage to be worse.
So—can anyone confirm if I’m doing this right? If possible point me to a useful training video or material?
Last year, I requested a megger, but Megger Inc. quoted me $18,000 for a ≤600-volt device. My director scoffed at the price but approved a Fluke 757 instead. It’s not a real megger, though some people seem comfortable calling it one. Personally, I refer to it as an insulation tester. I assume those who casually use “megger” have never actually seen a real megger quote—but I digress.
Since getting the 757, I’ve yet to find a single bad motor, even though maintenance keeps pulling “bad” ones off the floor. I don’t want to be that guy who tells them they don’t know what they’re talking about and then points at the 757 results—but the truth is, I have no real baseline for what a “bad” motor even looks like on this tester.
Typically, the motors they claim are “shorted” are ones where someone didn’t secure the wiring properly, and a wire nut fell off and grounded out. Sparks and molten insulation are enough for them to assume it’s toast. But when I test it with the 757, it reads fine. Just to be sure I always do a basic ohms test phase to phase also. So, instead of scrapping them, I clean up the wiring and put the motors back on the shelf.
Now, I’m here to make sure I’m testing these motors correctly. All of them are 480V. The Fluke 757 came with three leads—two standard ones, and a third with the test button for resistance testing. I connect that to the designated spot, move the black lead under the insulation tester port, set the voltage to 1000V, and test between phases. Every time, I get a reading of exactly 2 MΩ. I also test to casing.
Here’s the weird part: if I press the test button without the leads connected to anything, I still get the same result—2 MΩ. The Fluke instructions are horrible, and their YouTube videos somehow manage to be worse.
So—can anyone confirm if I’m doing this right? If possible point me to a useful training video or material?