Flying Splices

[DrDel]

how safe is it to have a flying splice not in a receptacle box but placed behind drywall?

The splice has been capped and there is a lot of slack on the eletrical wire so that stretching/pulling of the electrical cord is not an issue.

Is it a violation of safety standards to not house the splice in a metal receptacle box? Or is it considered acceptable? How unsafe is this?

 

[iwire]

Re: Flying Splices

Unless it is a construction site, boxes are required at line voltage splices by the NEC.

 

[jwelectric]

Re: Flying Splices

2005 code

300.15 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, or Fittings ? Where Required.
A box shall be installed at each outlet and switch point for concealed knob-and-tube wiring.
Fittings and connectors shall be used only with the specific wiring methods for which they are designed and listed.
Where the wiring method is conduit, tubing, Type AC cable, Type MC cable, Type MI cable, nonmetallic-sheathed cable, or other cables, a box or conduit body shall be installed at each conductor splice point, outlet point, switch point, junction point, termination point, or pull point, unless otherwise permitted in 300.15(A) through (M).

I see nothing that you have described above listed in (A)-(M)

 

[petersonra]

Re: Flying Splices

It may not be all that "unsafe", but it does not meet code requirements.

 

[benaround]

Re: Flying Splices

Ask your insurance co. how safe they think it is?

frank

 

[petersonra]

Re: Flying Splices

bottom line is that if you choose to do something in violation of the code, you incur liability regardless of whether or not what you do is "unsafe" or not.

 

[George Stolz]

Re: Flying Splices

In addition to the above, I would add that should the splice fail over time (and manage not to create a fire in the process) fixing the problem will be much harder for that electrician at that time.

Have you discovered one, DrDel, or are you considering trying it?

Just install a box.

 

[davedottcom]

Re: Flying Splices

Originally posted by georgestolz:
Just install a box.

An accessible box!

Dave

 

[jaylectricity]

This question is really a no brainer. No AHJ in his right mind would approve of the type of fly tap that originated this thread. Not to say that it doesn't get done. Some problems get overlooked when one claims that it was done, "safely'.
For instance to be even close to safe, consider this:
1: Stripping the wires to be spliced cannot be nicked or ringed (from using linesmans to stip your wire) or else you are reducing the gauge conducter the current is travelling through.
2: You must be sure that you twist the wire neatly and completely within BEFORE putting on a wire nut. Otherwise you may create the kind of arc-ing between loose conducters.
3: Every once in a while, even when you secure your splice neatly and completely you may accidentally damage the wire (see #1) and possibly break off the stripped copper of one of the leads which completely negates your splice

So even if you wrap lots of tape around the wire nuts, tape the cables together, leave slack for breathing room while securing the cables with proper stapling, you might have any of problems 1-3. But you may not know it until it is too late.

Since you have proven that you are willing to hire a hack who will do this, what's to say you don't hire some other hack that changes your 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp breaker to "cure" your "nuisance tripping" and your fly tap starts to disintegrate with the added amperage flowing through it?

It's already been said, but I wanted to really add to it; FIND A WAY to box it and/or run a complete new feed from a more accessible area such as a basement, crawl space, attic or even a weather proof box on the outside of your house if it can be done inconspicuously. Where there's a will, there's a way. But with a hack's way, you better have a will.

 

[ryan_618]

Dr: You posted a question here a few years ago that was about Siemens breakers in your panel, and it was deleted due to the fact that you are not an electrical professional. Your occupation is listed as "D". I don't know what exactly "D" is, but I am quite certain that you are not an electrical professional. With that said, I am closing this thread, as it is of a do-it-yourself nature.