For those of you who like receptacle stabs

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hurk27

Senior Member
I have sort of a side question. I installed a light fixture the other day where the instructions said to tape the wirenuts.... If the manufacturer' s instructions tell you to do that, are you supposed to do that?

I believe those instructions are for those cheap wire nuts that is supplied with the fixture, if you look inside these cheap wire nuts there is no metal spring to grip the wire, I never use them.
 

gndrod

Senior Member
Location
Ca and Wa
you guys are trying to open up another can of worms...

to pre or not to pre..... that is the question.



I have sort of a side question. I installed a light fixture the other day where the instructions said to tape the wirenuts.... If the manufacturer' s instructions tell you to do that, are you supposed to do that?
Would you want to mention that manufacturer's name?
 

realolman

Senior Member
Would you want to mention that manufacturer's name?

Utilitech?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_16059-47842-105851-028_4294857053_4294937087_?productId=3014681&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_Recessed%2BLighting_4294857053_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

Actually kinda a nice little fixture... looks real nice even built about half stout for a light fixture... j-box pretty thin...about 8 bucks a piece.
Anyway, it said in the instructions to tape the wire nut.... of course, I did

I believe those instructions are for those cheap wire nuts that is supplied with the fixture, if you look inside these cheap wire nuts there is no metal spring to grip the wire, I never use them.

I didn't notice your post at first, but you are right... it did come with wirenuts that I didn't use... i didn't look at them though ... well, I'll be darned.
 
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tsamples

Member
Location
Oregon
I have sort of a side question. I installed a light fixture the other day where the instructions said to tape the wirenuts.... If the manufacturer' s instructions tell you to do that, are you supposed to do that?

110.3(B) requires that you install the luminaire to the manufacturer's instructions. Unless the manufacturer mentioned those wire nuts you will need to tape the wirenuts.
 

Cow

Senior Member
Location
Eastern Oregon
Occupation
Electrician
If you skin the conductors longer than is necessary, bundle them all up where the top of the bare conductors are even , twist them together with a pair of pliers , and cut off the excess length, and then put on a wire nut....You can see what it's gonna look like before you put on the wire nut.

That's pretty much word for word what I tell the apprentices when they work with me. It's the kids who strip them a half inch, lay the wire ends beside each other straight(no pretwist) and wind the wirenuts on with a drill that I'm going to have a problem with.
 

Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
That's pretty much word for word what I tell the apprentices when they work with me. It's the kids who strip them a half inch, lay the wire ends beside each other straight(no pretwist) and wind the wirenuts on with a drill that I'm going to have a problem with.

IMG_02891.jpg
 

hurk27

Senior Member
That's pretty much word for word what I tell the apprentices when they work with me. It's the kids who strip them a half inch, lay the wire ends beside each other straight(no pretwist) and wind the wirenuts on with a drill that I'm going to have a problem with.

Why Ideal and GB both supply you with a bit for your drill in bags of 500/1000 to put the nuts on with, and if I have allot of them, I do too, but I still pre-twist:p
 

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Don't back-stabs and wagos use the same technology?
For the most part, yes. The only difference is that if you're using Wagos for small, pre-calculated lighting loads the chances of them heating up and expanding are slim. On the other hand, if you're using them for receptacle loads (like appliances in a kitchen) over time the possibility of them heating up and becomming loose are greater, IMHO.
 
NEC designation is NM, non-metallic sheathed cable. Romex(r) is Southwire's trademarked brand of it. I don't know if the deep-link works, but try http://www.southwire.com/ProductCatalog/XTEInterfaceServlet?contentKey=prodcatsheet6. From that,

Southwire's Romex SIMpull? Type NM-B (nonmetallic-sheathed cable) may be used for both exposed and concealed work in normally dry locations at temperatures not to exceed 90?C (with ampacity limited to that for 60?C conductors) as specified in the 2011 National Electrical Code. NM-B cable is primarily used in residential wiring as branch circuits for outlets, switches, and other loads. NM-B cable may be run in air voids of masonry block or tile walls where such walls are not wet or damp locations. Voltage rating for NM-B cable is 600 volts.

I'm accustomed to your designation when individual conductors are pulled. BUT ... with yours, I'd expect 3 black wires and 3 phase ... how is Black/Red/White/Green noted?

You're correct, that should have been 3/c#12+G.
 
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