hillbilly1
Senior Member
- Location
- North Georgia mountains
- Occupation
- Owner/electrical contractor
Most likely the compressors are the only thing that is three phase. The rest of the fans usually are fractional hp single phase.
That’s how I would interpret it. The 3 phase motor is OK with 208V or 230V, but it needs 115V for other things, which they derive from L to N. So if it is a 230V 3 phase service, they are indicating it needs to be a 4 wire 3 phase.Could 208-230/110 3 phase mean that it's OK to connect to either a 208Y/120V system, or a high leg 240V delta? I.e. all the 3 phase motors will run on 208V or 240V, and one of the line terminals is marked for the high leg, if there is one, with no 120V components powered from that leg?
Cheers, Wayne
Wire it with single phase andr see what happens. If it's made for three phase you probably wouldn't damage the unit quickly enough to know if it's working
That’s how I would interpret it. The 3 phase motor is OK with 208V or 230V, but it needs 115V for other things, which they derive from L to N. So if it is a 230V 3 phase service, they are indicating it needs to be a 4 wire 3 phase.
if the condenser is the only 3 phase motor, separate out the wiring for it and add a VFD just to that one motor.
I'd say it is giving different current ratings for 208 vs 240 volt input. If it were true dual voltage rating like a 115/230 volt motor commonly is the high volt current rating would be half the current as the low volt rating. It likely also has some 120 volt load within (like at least a light maybe?)My conclusion: It's dual-voltage, as indicated by the amperages, but I'm not aware of 120v 3ph anywhere.
That is what I assume it means.Could 208-230/110 3 phase mean that it's OK to connect to either a 208Y/120V system, or a high leg 240V delta? I.e. all the 3 phase motors will run on 208V or 240V, and one of the line terminals is marked for the high leg, if there is one, with no 120V components powered from that leg?
Cheers, Wayne
I first thought why didn't they order the correct unit for system available, but now I'm thinking probably is used equipment and nobody knew any better to know about single vs three phase here. See that happen a lot with small operators with only single phase supply that think they got a great buy on some used equipment. Sometimes phase conversion or motor/control replacements can cost as much or more than they paid for the equipment - then they are not so happy anymore.Can't tell from the information given.
I asked if this was a walk-in.
If so, is there a separate evaporator in the box piped to the compressor/condenser outside of it?
Or is this use one of those self contained refrigeration units that sits on the top?
Many times, buying old used equipment isn't worth the trouble.
-Hal
From the wiring diagram posted, it appears the fans, lights and defrost heaters are 120 volt. The compressor is three phase.I'd say it is giving different current ratings for 208 vs 240 volt input. If it were true dual voltage rating like a 115/230 volt motor commonly is the high volt current rating would be half the current as the low volt rating. It likely also has some 120 volt load within (like at least a light maybe?)
Has not yet been clarified if this is a self contained unit, if so the compressor is possibly three phase? If it is just a display unit that is served by remote compressor, I'd say maybe defrost heaters is the three phase load, worst case there is you probably can reconfigure them for single phase input, total current draw will be more though.
not complicated at all, make thermostat (or pressure switch depending on what actually starts it) control a contactor to energize the converter, and put a simple encapsulated on delay timer (maybe $12-15 at some HVAC supply houses) in line with coil for contactor for the compressor.I think it would be relatively easy to have the T-stat start the inverter, and a few seconds of delay for the unit.
Maybe unnecessarily complicated, but doable.
Yes, I seem to post things before reading all the posts sometimesFrom the wiring diagram posted, it appears the fans, lights and defrost heaters are 120 volt. The compressor is three phase.
Yeah, it was a while before I looked at it! LOL!Yes, I seem to post things before reading all the posts sometimes
We've pretty much concluded it's wired to run on 3ph, plus there's a separate 1ph circuit.It likely also has some 120 volt load within (like at least a light maybe?)
Has not yet been clarified if this is a self contained unit, if so the compressor is possibly three phase?
I don't necessarily agree there is a separate 1 ph circuit, just that there is mixed line to line and line to neutral loads all on one multiwire circuit. Do need to be careful where you land high leg if you have one so that no 120 volt loads are connected to it.We've pretty much concluded it's wired to run on 3ph, plus there's a separate 1ph circuit.
Not good to let the magic smoke out! LOL!I don't necessarily agree there is a separate 1 ph circuit, just that there is mixed line to line and line to neutral loads all on one multiwire circuit. Do need to be careful where you land high leg if you have one so that no 120 volt loads are connected to it.
Possibly a better design would have been to install a SDS within the appliance to derive the 120 volts, but then you would need to change taps when changing from 208 to 240 or vice versa to get right voltage there, though it is not as big of a change as connecting the high leg to a 120 volt rated load.Not good to let the magic smoke out! LOL!
But you know that would cost the manufacturer $$, which isn’t going to happen! LOL!Possibly a better design would have been to install a SDS within the appliance to derive the 120 volts, but then you would need to change taps when changing from 208 to 240 or vice versa to get right voltage there, though it is not as big of a change as connecting the high leg to a 120 volt rated load.
Which I am fine with. Hopefully they make it clear where to land or not land high leg when there is one. I myself will further investigate to make certain in most cases. Often there is a distribution block or similar that isn't too difficult to determine where the 120 volt loads are connected to.But you know that would cost the manufacturer $$, which isn’t going to happen! LOL!
now that we have the serial number, Polar King gives a little info; it is a dual unit with 2 temperature capability; SYSTEM 1:Unit Temperature: 35° Condensing Unit: Copeland – FJAM-A150-TFC Evaporator Coil: Larkin – LCA6-135 Voltage/Phase/Cycle/Amps: 208-230/110/3/60 SYSTEM 2:Unit Temperature: -10° Condensing Unit: Copeland – DJAL-020Z-TFC Evaporator Coil: Larkin – LCA6-120 Voltage/Phase/Cycle/Amps: 208-230/110/3/60