Fused switch on residential gas furnaces

nizak

Senior Member
Is anybody here still installing the comb switch/ Edison base 6.25A fuse on new installs?

Conversation came up with an HVAC installer today.
 
I've never done that although I have seem some ancient systems where they had an SOY box with a switch and fuse at the unit.
 
I've never done that although I have seem some ancient systems where they had an SOY box with a switch and fuse at the unit.
I believe the intent of the fuse is to protect the motor in case of a problem.

I’ve seen many of furnaces 40/ 50 years old with them but haven’t seen them installed in at least 25 years.

Common ones I see are Bussman with a 6
1/4A fuse.

Is it because newer blower motors have built in thermal protection as opposed to older ones?
 
From what I've seen of their use, originally the furnace would not have been on a dedicated circuit. It would be on the same circuit as the basement lights.

So it seems that rather than blowing the fuse for the entire basement, and ending up in the dark if there was a problem with the furnace, it would just blow the fuse that's on the unit
 
I believe the intent of the fuse is to protect the motor in case of a problem.

I’ve seen many of furnaces 40/ 50 years old with them but haven’t seen them installed in at least 25 years.

Common ones I see are Bussman with a 6
1/4A fuse.

Is it because newer blower motors have built in thermal protection as opposed to older ones?
But a 1/2 HP motor (which doesn't seem uncommon for a furnace) draws 9.8 amps?

I usually assume all furnaces have built in overload protection of some sort, and only need a properly sized branch circuit breaker for compliance.

I believe that is generally the case for almost all "packaged" HVAC equipment including things like RTU's and condensing units, with the one general exception being items that require fuse protection.

In other words, I assume most packaged equipment already has the motor starter and thermal motor protection built into the unit.
 
It used to be that 15 amps was the lowest standard breaker size but now if you needed to provide motor protection lower than 15A you could use a 10A breaker.
 
Here is my take on those Edison fuses,
In all furnace designs if the blower goes out you'd also want to shut off the furnace / turn off the fuel source, (gas / oil valve).
On a new gas/oil furnace there is a 'mother board' and sensors that provides safety controls and the motor is a hi efficiency electronically commutated motor (ECM).
On old furnace designs (but may still be in service) the 'motor overload' is moved exterior to the unit so it can turn the entire furnace off if the motor overloads.
While many appliance small factional HP motors are 'shaded pole' and thus 'impedance protected', I'd say most a older oil/coal/gas furnace blower motors would typically be Permanent Split Capacitor (PSC), and thus *not* impedance protected (I am generalizing)
If the capacitor fails it sits there trying to start but can't due to the failed capacitor.
The windings basically turn into a heating element when there’s no electromagnetic resistance from the rotor spinning.
Without the Edison fuse obviously a 15A inverse time breaker (or fuse) would never trip, much less a 20A, so if sits like that long enough eventually it damages the windings.
Fractional HP PSC Motors have had a temperature overload that melts for a long time (not sure when that was invented), but that is embedded in the windings and not typically user serviceable, and it would not shut off the entire furnace.
So my guess is the Edison fuse is set to trip before the motor overload so the entire furnace / fuel is cut off
 
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