Jerseydaze
Senior Member
I have a new modular home that’s roughed for 40amp ranges the customer has decided to go with gas instead.Is there any reason I can’t splice #12s onto the #8 and convert the receptacle ?
I have a new modular home that’s roughed for 40amp ranges the customer has decided to go with gas instead.Is there any reason I can’t splice #12s onto the #8 and convert the receptacle ?
or a 15 amp, but still needs either if running a new cable.You can tho you'll need a 20A combination AFCI breaker.
or a 15 amp, but still needs either if running a new cable.
This always get me tho: would 250.122(A) require the grounding conductor to also be #8? The conductors arent being upsized for VD, they arent being changed at all, but I've lost that argument/interpretation of 250.122 here before.
8/3 NM has a #10 ground wire.
This always get me tho: would 250.122(A) require the grounding conductor to also be #8? The conductors arent being upsized for VD, they arent being changed at all, but I've lost that argument/interpretation of 250.122 here before.
8/3 NM has a #10 ground wire.
That one is a judgement call IMO. Strictest interpretation - yes EGC needs to be 8 AWG.
NEC doesn't think we are smart enough to figure out if EGC would be sufficient and doesn't allow us to calculate EGC, instead they want to plan for worst case possible and size according to that. I honestly believe even 100 foot circuit the 10 AWG is probably sufficient. More then 100 feet might need to be larger conductor. It is all about (or should be) getting high enough current to flow to operate overcurrent device in a certain amount of time. Conductor resistance is just a part of the real equation of how fast a device will respond.
I've seen 1300 - 1400 feet length of #4 aluminum (including EGC) on 480/277 that didn't blow a 30 amp fuse when ground fault occurred. Just too much resistance in the length and something else failed first.
I kinda forgot that, oops.:ashamed1:
The simple fix
I agree Fletch but if the inspector wants to red tag, nothing to be done but do the new circuit route. Yes, strict interpretation but the rule is pretty cut and dried.
True. So, to re-answer the OP's question: if the range is fed by 4 wire NM (8/3), i.e. the ground wire is #10, it's a no-go. If it's another wiring method with a #8 ground, then yes, he can reduce to #12 at the receptacle, change it to a duplex, and change the breaker and call it a day.
Still makes zero sense but that's the "correct" answer.
Probably sold as an RV accessory?The simple fix
Probably sold as an RV accessory?
Sold by Home Depot Canada as a gas range adapter.
This one is sold in the US by Home Depot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-Gas-Range-Adapter-9042SW8801/302183109
I agree the intent may not necessarily be to require an 8 AWG ground in this case - but they wrote one rule to fit all situations, and either isn't quite being understood, enforced, etc. or people just don't realize the rule is there, so it hasn't caused enough problems for anyone to submit PI to try to change it.My thought is that if the EGC was sufficient for #8 conductors on a 40A breaker, its sufficient for #8 conductors on a 20A breaker. and we're not upsizing the #8 part of the run, we're downsizing to #12 at the end of it and changing the OCPD to a 15 or 20A breaker.
Because #12 ungrounded conductors require a #12 EGC, upsizing to #8 hots requires a proportional increase in the EGC, which would be a #8 as well. But using #8 ungrounded on a 40A circuit means a #10 EGC is fine.
This example is one where the code makes no damned sense at all. I would convert that 240V 40A range receptacle all day long to a 120V 15/20A and not lose a wink of sleep over the ground wire being #10 instead of #8.
Strictest interpretation withstanding tho, Hal has the only viable solution: run a new circuit.
I still don't believe the intent of 250.122 is to require, in a case like what the OP has, one to use a #8 ground over a #10.